proportioning valve
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tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
See if this helps:
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/835-2608419.pdf
Probably the same for most units.
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/835-2608419.pdf
Probably the same for most units.
tfeverfred
Well-Known Member
There's a good possibility, you may not even need one. The same goes for residual valves. With a low mounted master cylinder and your calipers only a few inches above your fluid level, you may not need either of those. I didn't have them on my T Bucket and she stopped on a dime, with a great pedal. Just something to think about.
ellis8500
Member
I do not have a proportioning nor do I need one. The front calipers have larger pistons than the rears. This results in differential braking. Also have a manual, 4-wheel disc MC designed for mid 70's Corvette. Combined they provide the proper combination to eliminate the need for a proportioning valve. Car stops very well with no rear wheel lockup.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I ordered both, they weren't expensive, and I liked the adjustability option.
bamabucket
Member
I recently reworked my entire brake system and did install residual valves and proportioning valve. I have 4-wheel drums and don't need the prop vale now but put it in so I would be ready when I go to front disks in the future. I have ready many posts on different forums regarding needing or not needing residual valves but I put them in anyway. The system works well (considering it is all drums). I'm not sure it is better now than before when it didn't have the residual valves.
Sue it is, YOU did it right and left the door open for improvements!!!
bamabucket
Member
Thanks Bruce - I consider that a verification and compliment.
tbucketlar1
Member
Nice post
lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
I do not have those in the bucket and I just don't see why you need them.......If you keep you drum brakes adjusted then they will work fine with front disc.......and if you keep the drums adjusted right you will be fine with them all around.....If you don't have any air in the system the fluid will stay where it is & ready to work anytime you step on the pedal..........That is my .02........ it may not be worth that much to you but works for me.....
Mike
Mike
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
The reason for them is if the master cylinder is lower that the caliper or wheel cylinder, gravity allows enough back flow to allow the caliper to retract and the pads won't remain against the rotor, same for the wheel cylinders. It adds petal travel and can allow brake pad chatter, noise. That's the theory.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
My m/c is under the floor and lower than the wheel cyl. and calipers. I tried with no residual valves and it was a no go. I can't pump the brake fast enough to recover stopping power, especially in an emergency. The proportioning valve didn't seem to make much difference unless I went extreme either way from center. On sand or gravel all wheels seem to lock up the same.
So if you have a brake line that is for example 3' long, and you put a residual valve 12" away from the wheel cylinder or caliper. This is going to cause the 12" of line to maintain pressure. I get the feeling here that people are expecting a portion of the fluid in the remaining 24" of line to drain back to the master cylinder. If that happens, what replaces the drained back fluid that has left the 24" line. Air? Vacuum? I think I have to agree with @lincolnuT on this one.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
Mine are right at the m/c. So maybe 2' of line that could have a void.
You are thinking of a residual valve, which works like a check valve.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
When I decided to go with them, I understood that they should be as close to the mc as possible for that very reason, talking about the residual valves.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Wait, we were talking about residual valves, somehow things got jumbled, lol.
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