Windshield Support Rods

[clamper]

As I put everything back together, I'm thinking of running without a top. My concern is that the top mounted to the windshield frame, if I don't have the Top on do I need the support rods that attach to the windshield frame I see on alot of T's? Also I have seen them attached to the headlight bolt and others to the frame, which is best? The only ones I've found are from Speedway and attach to the frame. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks,
John

 

[Youngster]

The windshield rods were used mostly when the first 'glass bodies were available. Those bodies for the most part where thin for compition use. With a steel body you really don't need them. They kinda fall in the "Bling" catagory.

Ron

 

[Northstar T]

I virtually always agree with Ron on car building issues, but this time……. not so much. Unless you have a very substantial system in place to attach your windshield posts to the body, and from brackets to windshield frame, I would strongly recommend support rods. the amount of force on that windshield at freeway speeds, combined with the leverage placed on the average attachment points, can easily give you a very rude slap in the face at best.

Russ

 

[Rogers23T]

I agree... if the body is weak then yes you "need" them if not and you don't have a 2 foot windsheild I think you're fine

 

[clamper]

Thanks for both posts, I do have a steal body and the windshield mount area is reinforced. I was thinking more about vibration instead of freeway speeds. And I grew up looking at the old T's with them. Does anyone know where the best place to buy a set are? I've only seen them at Speedway.
John

 

[jimbo01]

Thanks for both posts, I do have a steal body and the windshield mount area is reinforced. I was thinking more about vibration instead of freeway speeds. And I grew up looking at the old T's with them. Does anyone know where the best place to buy a set are? I've only seen them at Speedway.
John

Wintec & Spirit both have some.

 

[Rogers23T]

You could always make your own as well...just thought

 

[Youngster]

If I where to run them on my car, I would mount them to the frame and not to the headlights. My vote would be to build them out of SS. With all the variations in frame length and body placement, I don't see how a generic set could be sold.

Ron

 

[409T]

5/16" stainless steel rod and a die to cut the threads works real well. 3/8" if you get excited. I just did a set using mild steel and had them chromed but that is more expensive. With an 18 - 22" tall windshield I wouldn't be without them, attached to the frame.

 

[Ted Brown]

I use 5/16" solid stock, weld a 5/16" shaft clevis to the top end, file the weld to make it smooth and all the same size... the lower frame or head light mount end is threaded, (if the head light mount is really strong) mine is a combo light/shock mount, so that works great... I use a 1/4" tab, with a 5/8" hole in it, to except stock muffler hanger rubbers, (male and female) which I cover/hide with brass soft plugs, this keeps the rods from breaking at that end and allows for some movement... when all is fitted to the proper length and double nutted on both sides of the brass covered rubber bushings, I now cut lengths of 3/8" OD 5/16" ID polished brass tubing to cover the rods and no chrome is necessary... This is how CCR dose them only without the rubber bushings... I found that solid mounts at both ends tend to break to quickly (a few months), I have yet to break any this way, mine are older than 40 years, and have had very hard service, and they work very hard at keeping that windshield from breaking the frame itself, as that material is very thin, as they come stock, they really need a full length (from top to bottom) 'inside' blind nut 'half round' stock to reinforce the full sides of the windshield frame... better than short pieces at just the posts and hinge area... Plus 'I myself' love the look of the rods...

 

[Rogers23T]

I like them when they go from the top of the windsheild to the bottom of the hadlight bracket. Got to have a strong headlight braacket though!

 

[RPM]

We use 1/4" stainless rod with a 1/4" stainless heim on each end. Inexpensive and simple. Never had a failure. Polish as needed.

 

[clamper]

Came up with a design that I like. 3/8 rod to a mount on the headlight support. Will have them chromed, just waiting on the heim joints to be delievered. Total cost $24.oo before chrome. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Rogers23T]

I love that early 60's GM fuel Injection, dad had it on this '62 vette. Windshield supports look good!

 

[JP1]

I use 5/16" solid stock, weld a 5/16" shaft clevis to the top end, file the weld to make it smooth and all the same size... the lower frame or head light mount end is threaded, (if the head light mount is really strong) mine is a combo light/shock mount, so that works great... I use a 1/4" tab, with a 5/8" hole in it, to except stock muffler hanger rubbers, (male and female) which I cover/hide with brass soft plugs, this keeps the rods from breaking at that end and allows for some movement... when all is fitted to the proper length and double nutted on both sides of the brass covered rubber bushings, I now cut lengths of 3/8" OD 5/16" ID polished brass tubing to cover the rods and no chrome is necessary... This is how CCR dose them only without the rubber bushings... I found that solid mounts at both ends tend to break to quickly (a few months), I have yet to break any this way, mine are older than 40 years, and have had very hard service, and they work very hard at keeping that windshield from breaking the frame itself, as that material is very thin, as they come stock, they really need a full length (from top to bottom) 'inside' blind nut 'half round' stock to reinforce the full sides of the windshield frame... better than short pieces at just the posts and hinge area... Plus 'I myself' love the look of the rods...

My support rods are mounted to the center bolt of the windshield hinge. I am still having trouble with the top 1/2 of the windshield wanting to fold toward me and this also results in the top becoming loose. I have seen a lot of photos where the rod is attached to the hinge center bolt but seems it would be better to attached the rod to one of the hinge bolts on the upper windshield frame. Any advice would be appreciated!!

 

[old round fart]

Change the center hinge with a solid strap. Attach support to strap and you are done! Happy Motoring!

 

[JP1]

Change the center hinge with a solid strap. Attach support to strap and you are done! Happy Motoring!

Thanks. Good idea!!