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The Yeti's 27 T Build

I've been investing 3-4 hours a night into this thing after I get home from work.


Nothing ventured. Nothing gained.

It will soon be done.

All who build anything will make changes as needed before a finished product is achieved. Unless you buy a kit.
 
I/m retired ( have 2 incomes ) so , i have more time to work on my project. I go to Cherokee Automotive Monday thru Friday & work on it. My project is NOW indoors ( unused body shop ).
 
Made a jig to parellel the lower bar to the axle mount.. cut 2 more pieces to make twins. Need to make another jig to keep the front square where the top tube tapers in and then I can weld these solid.

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I posted this stuff over on the Facebook group but figured I should put it in my build thread since the site is back up.

Basic frame is welded together.

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These are my ladder bar mounts / kick up fish plates. They will be fully seam welded to the kick ups. About 2" will hang down for ladder bar attachment.
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You should check your private messages PMs.
 
DSCN1451.JPG I purchased a 1/4" thick by 24" wide by 30" long piece of polypropylene ( resin doesn't stick to it ) from Tap plastics inc. I've been making sheets of fiberglass. I used 3/4 oz. fiberglass mat (1 layer only). The finished sheet is very flexible & can be cut with a pair of scissors. I can place it over a gap ( it's transparent) and mark the area to be cut out. The cut out piece is extremely accurate.DSCN1449.JPG DSCN1450.JPG
 
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Cardboard templates make life so easy.

Built my dash today. Didn't want to spend the $700 on the gauges that interface the GM pcm so I used a silverado cluster. The cluster is recessed and will have a nice smoked plexi glass cover over it that will hopefully only show what is lit up. Some black paint will fake the eye too..

A 5.25" speaker on both corners of the dash will finish it.

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I'm "fixing" the lead up of the cowl to the windshield. It was sunken as if it was yanked outta the mold too fast. I have no clue. But I got something imagined that should look just fine. That's the reason for the tall dash.
 
Put lots of garage R&D into the bucket and mocked things up 100 different ways the past couple weeks while ive been off work.. Ive left wrenching to pursue a career change. I was mentally exhausted being an Automotive Technician for a living, the flat rate system sucks 80% of the time, and to top it all off I was experiencing bad shoulder, elbow, wrist, and hand pain in the past few years.

I was going to use a fuel cell but in my recent diggings I found people using car gas tanks and just hiding them under the turtle deck. I went to the junkyard hoping to give it a try and found a 14 gallon cavalier gas tank that fits like I built the body around it. Pretty impressed. More money saved for other parts.
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The front suspension. This has been so much thought and mockup. Still lots to go but I got my 1/4 elliptical spring perches and frame plates that I made this week, mounted today. Hoping to get 4 bars figured out and welded up this week.
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I'll post this up just to see what gets said here. Here's a quick mock up of my front 4 bars. I posted this picture on the other t bucket page on Facebook (NOT the one associated with tbucketeers) and one member there was pretty upset with my use of heim joints.

I drilled the taper out of the front axle spring pirch holes. Drilled it out to .750 and drove in 3/4 to 5/8 reducing bushings. Using 5/8 chromoly heim joints on all ends of the front 4 bars. I will be using heim joint "misalignment" spacers that allow full articulation without any binding.

*The washers you see are obviously wrong. I plan to use the correct heim joint entrapment washers for safety*

But the moral of the story... This guy had a fit about my use of heims being horizontal at the frame and vertical at the axle. Says it's unsafe but couldn't elaborate as to why other than because he's "never seen it done before and that I should he using batwings.".
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My guess would be that the heim joints don't deflect very much the way you have them mounted and could break if the axle travels too far either up or down? Maybe it is not an issue, I don't really know. Typically you see batwings and clevises, but "typical" doesn't mean it is the only way. If you ever decide to use batwings, Pete and Jakes sell ones that will bolt onto your axle. I used them to make custom batwings for my model A.
 

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