Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

White T II

I have never managed to tip over an engine stand, but occasionally I have wondered about it, especially when a wheel gets stuck in one of the large expansion joints in my garage floor. I added a little insurance.

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Good idea. Better to be safe. My friend nearly lost a finger when he tried to catch the tipping engine. He was left with a much mangled finger.
 
It doesn't look much like a T-bucket now. Next is finish welding and then body work and paint.

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A rotisserie makes life SOOOOO much easier. I have the frame on here for finish welding and paint. It really beats crawling around on your hands and knees.

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I made this using FREE rotisserie plans from Redwing Steel Works. Home - Free Auto Rotisserie Plans / Car Rotisserie Plans. If you know how to weld this is a good project. If you don't know how to weld it is an even better project. Go buy an inexpensive mig or tig welder, some gas and some steel and get to work. (I learned tig before mig, but your mileage may vary) The steel in this thing is so thick that you can't get into trouble now matter how hard you try. By the time you finish this project you will know how to weld, have a rotisserie to use while painting your car, and also have one to sell for profit when you are done. Most importantly, you will have one more skill in your repertoire that will serve you for life.
 
Yes, nice shop. Curious, how big a unit is your mini split and how sq.ft. is shop? I have a 24 and it cools my 32x32 den pretty well. Won't say anything about heat when temps get below 30.
 
The shop is 1925 sq. ft. but it has a 16' high flat ceiling. I have 2 36K btu Mitsubishi mini-splits, they cool it real well, but since the ceiling is so high, in the winter most of the heat hangs up there until the units have been on for an hour or so. Still, if it is 30 deg. outside it can be 75 deg. inside. However, this is Tucson so A/C is much more important than heat. When it is 115 deg. outside, it is also 75 deg. inside. I'm sure there are other brands that work just as well if not better, but I am happy with these.
 
Before I like you, I want to know who's checkbook we are using ???
 
This is a POR 15 product that cannot be removed by chemicals, period. In the picture it has been dry for a week, but in reality it looks so wet that no one would touch it.

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PPG Concept DCC is another paint that looks wet when dry. It is a single stage paint, not base coat / clear coat, and just like any other body paint, some chemicals will attack it. I have sprayed that stuff just about with my eyes shut and it always comes out with a wet looking gloss. I don't know about the price, it is probably more expensive than most, but in my experience you get what you pay for. Again, only one man's opinion, your mileage may vary. I like this stuff for places that are not in your face like under the deck lid and prefer to use base coat / clear coat for the exterior. BC / CC is just my preference, but if you are looking for a single stage paint you might check DCC out. And NO, I do not get any money from PPG.
 
A friend of mine lives in Scottsdale and he buys his automotive paint from a local store. They custom tint it to match factory colors. It costs about $125 per quart! The stuff I buy from Summit is about $25-$30/ quart depending on the color. Big difference.
 
I have never managed to tip over an engine stand, but occasionally I have wondered about it, especially when a wheel gets stuck in one of the large expansion joints in my garage floor. I added a little insurance.

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I've never seen an engine stand with only 1 caster in the rear. I can totally understand the outriggers! Me being cheap... Mines from harbor freight and still has 4 casters. Had a ford FE block on it. That was a bit scary but it still moved around ok and didn't get caught in the joints on my floor. My expansion joints are only about 1/4". Filled them all with Akonaflex™ Pro Self-Leveling Expansion Joint Filler - 29 fl. oz. from the local menards. Keeps the dirt and waterout of the joints.)That sucker was just under 700lbs and was a bit touchy when moving it.
A friend of mine lives in Scottsdale and he buys his automotive paint from a local store. They custom tint it to match factory colors. It costs about $125 per quart! The stuff I buy from Summit is about $25-$30/ quart depending on the color. Big difference.
Just my 2 cents but after shopping around I found my sons color much cheaper than what I'd paid. He had a blue metallic on his thunderbird. Cost me a small fortune to match. Found it at another body store for almost 1/2 the price. I think I paid somewhere around 85.00 for a quart initially. I cringe when I hear about paint costs now! Way way back in the olden days I painted my little cobra II for somewhere around 200-250 dollars. That was for primer, paint, clear, and pearl.
 

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