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Transmission coolers

Rip VW

Active Member
Been thinking of getting a stand-alone transmission cooler for the T and not use the radiator cooler so I could clean up the trans lines. Is anybody here using a separate cooler for their automatic trans cooler? If so, what are you using and how much space does it use up? Just thinking ahead and trying to keep things clean...
 
Indy, what tranny is that? Short dipstick.
The trans is a 200-4R. It's the same length and output spline as a TH350, so you can use the same driveshaft. You do have to relocate the trans mount. Four speed w/lockup TC.

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Is this trans electric controlled.
 
Is this trans electric controlled.

No, there is no electronic control of the shifting. It's just like the 700-R4, it has the TV cable. If you want the torque converter to lockup, then you will need to supply 12v when you want that to happen. That can be as simple as a switch. The TC can be locked up in every gear except first, the valve body prevents this from happening.

I have a self latching relay, so I press a momentary button when I want to lockup the TC and the relay keeps it locked up. When I tap the brake, the relay drops out and the TC unlocks.
 
No, there is no electronic control of the shifting. It's just like the 700-R4, it has the TV cable. If you want the torque converter to lockup, then you will need to supply 12v when you want that to happen. That can be as simple as a switch. The TC can be locked up in every gear except first, the valve body prevents this from happening.

I have a self latching relay, so I press a momentary button when I want to lockup the TC and the relay keeps it locked up. When I tap the brake, the relay drops out and the TC unlocks.
I used a GM map sensor with a relay setup on my 700r4. I also had a switch wired in to bypass it and manually lock it. The only time I didn’t like it was low rpm.. the cam profile wasn’t favorable but it worked well other than that.
 
I used a GM map sensor with a relay setup on my 700r4.
So the 5v was enough to latch the relay? With a little electronic wizardry, you could have made that adjustable from inside the car.

NICE !
 
OK, I'm going to go back to the title of this thread. "Transmission Coolers"...and stir the pot: do we need them? A quick search shows maybe 170° is a good temp; above that may shorten the life (not really a problem for the geezers on this site). I just put a new TH400 in my bucket and installed a tranny temp gauge. I have no cooler yet. Stay tuned for results.
 
I am curious if anybody has used the derail long tubular type of coolers. I would think they would be pretty good if mounted solidly to the frame rail. I see they make several sizes length wise, and they are heavily finned. I read how good they were a few years ago but wonder if that was just hype or real word installations!
 
OK, I'm going to go back to the title of this thread. "Transmission Coolers"...and stir the pot: do we need them? A quick search shows maybe 170° is a good temp; above that may shorten the life (not really a problem for the geezers on this site). I just put a new TH400 in my bucket and installed a tranny temp gauge. I have no cooler yet. Stay tuned for results.
Lots of factors... the converter being one. Also overall drive train: how much stress is on the trans from the great ratio/hp match up and how hard do you run it... it’s not a issue on mine, three pedals.
 
OK, I'm going to go back to the title of this thread. "Transmission Coolers"...and stir the pot: do we need them?
The late Ted Brown (RIP) always said to omit a trans cooler and just use a hose to loop the fluid back from the trans outlet to inlet. Your mileage may vary.
 
What are the benefits of lockup?
Trans will run cooler, it's like having a standard trans at this point. The rpm will drop about 300, so I get better gas mileage.

Temperature is measured in the pan.

upload_2022-10-10_13-57-29.png
 
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I have also read that somewhere around 170 degrees is good. I suppose a temperature gauge on the outlet side of the trans might tell something, but as in engine temps., the gauge is just measuring the temp. of the FLUID at that point in its travel, not the temp. of the machinery. As always, your mileage may vary.
 
I suppose a temperature gauge on the outlet side of the trans might tell something,
Putting a gauge on the output line going to the cooler will drive you crazy. The temps vary greatly, just climbing a regular hill on the highway will make the temps jump from 210°F to 240°F in a couple of minutes. You can see my sensor in the first photo of my post #2. I have mine in the pan now. They are always going to be higher there compared to the pan temps.

The bar chart above I believe was first done by ATI Performance Products upload_2022-10-10_14-6-17.png , so I sent them an email asking where they took their temperatures. They said it was in the pan.
 
I am curious if anybody has used the derail long tubular type of coolers. I would think they would be pretty good if mounted solidly to the frame rail. I see they make several sizes length wise, and they are heavily finned. I read how good they were a few years ago but wonder if that was just hype or real word installations!
We used one in a dirt Super Stock car. It ran a 'Glide with no convertor, and we used a 30 inch long cooler. Three years with never an issue.
 
Stock cooler (integral w/radiator) works fine on mine. Mild Chevy 350 with TH 350 and 2100 stall convertor. Do I run it hard? :rolleyes: (Only when nobody's lookin'!)

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That’s the difference between older guys and kids... kids run em hard to get attention... lol. Me, I ran the pi$$ out of everything wether anyone watched or not, but I’m “older” now!
 
The late Ted Brown (RIP) always said to omit a trans cooler and just use a hose to loop the fluid back from the trans outlet to inlet. Your mileage may vary.
Yes, Ted liked a long copper tube, like 6' or 8', looped along the frame rail.
Indy, what temps do you see?
 

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