Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

My ProjecTee

Okay. Well, I did take some measurements for you. Overall length of rack is 42", rack mounting points are 12" on center, rack body width 22" My frame width is 25"
 
I think the heim joints would work out much better that tie rod ends and be easier to to work with. I'm going to research what I can use for my project
 
Hi indycars ; I have 2 of those tools. Locating them is another story. However ; I have NO problem locating Lowes. I grab some snacks & visit with the employes. I enjoy going to Lowes. So , there's NO problem here. I go to a restaurant every morning & i eat my breakfast. I scout around for parts , i run errands for Leroy ( the shop owner). All of these trips i make , help break up my otherwise boring existence.
 
FIAT 500 r&p steering assembly..jpg This Fiat 500 R&P looks very simple & easy to install. It mounts behind the axle. It is manual (non power assisted).
 
Last edited:
The length of the steering gear housing is extremely important. I have a great fitment with the Chevy Cobalt's steering assembly. I'm going to see if my Honda Del Sol's R&P inner tie rods will fit my Chevy R&P's steering gear housing. The Chevy Cobalt's inner tie rods are too long. The Honda Del Sol's inner tie rods are shorter. I may have to use the Honda's gaiters also. I'll have to purchase a banding tool when i put everything back together.
 
Have you driven a T-bucket with a steering rack like the one you are planning to use? I wonder if the handling is really worth all the effort . . . o_O
 
My first T had conventional box/drag link steering. My current T has R&P. The only big difference was steering effort; R&P is like power steering compared to conventional steering. R&P is very light and easy. But R&P has a downside: the connection between the road wheels and the steering wheel works both ways equally. So every bump in the road is transmitted right to the steering wheel. Hard on the wrists. And the control of the box is gone, so the road wheels move freely with every bump, which can be scary. The solution is one or more steering dampers. I use a pair of motorcycle dampers: IMG_0036.JPG

...the black cylinder. Mounts to the batwing. One on each wheel. There are many other dampers, like this one sold by speedway.
 
You will want to check the stroke on any damper to see how far you can turn the wheel in both directions. Most automotive dampers are sold for a particular vehicle and the description won't have stroke or body length, so you have to ask. And then decide where to mount the damper considering the stroke and other parts in the way. This is why we get the big bucks, right?

Here is the latest damper I bought. It has a 5" stroke, which will give you 2.5" in each direction. It came with the mounting bracket even tho the listing said it didn't. I haven't installed it yet, but it will give me more wheel turning than the present damper which has only 2" in each direction.
P1040969.JPG
 
Last edited:
My Half Rack is so much better than the old Corvair boxes. It turns easier sitting still and going down the highway. I alos don't seem to get the same wheel feel that Potvinguy speaks about..............
 
My Half Rack is so much better than the old Corvair boxes. It turns easier sitting still and going down the highway. I alos don't seem to get the same wheel feel that Potvinguy speaks about..............
What's a half rack? Got a pic? Oh, the Unisteer! Very interesting. Does the steering column bolt directly to the unit? Plenty of turning at the wheels? Does the unit move a drag link or a cross link or how does it all go together?
 
Last edited:
I have a Unisteer unit. I haven’t driven it yet but I think it’s 3 1/2 turns lock to lock and designed fir 6” steering arms. My wheels turn about 38 degrees each way if I remember right. It’s the same as Ricks bucket. With the bell crank I can change the ratio fi I need to.
 
I have the 28 - 32 cross steer model. It is 3 3/4 turns lock to lock, 6" total drag link travel.
 
Yes about 3.5 turns lock and steers very smooth.......It hooks right up to the steering shaft these photos should make that clear. I hooks to the same place as the drag link.........
 

Attachments

  • 36679891_10215720847790602_8870938651316453376_n.jpg
    36679891_10215720847790602_8870938651316453376_n.jpg
    77.7 KB · Views: 48
  • 36636093_10215720847870604_3049802594093367296_n.jpg
    36636093_10215720847870604_3049802594093367296_n.jpg
    66.9 KB · Views: 50
  • 36641623_10215721157958356_2789888572251963392_n.jpg
    36641623_10215721157958356_2789888572251963392_n.jpg
    77.1 KB · Views: 49
I agree with all of the above comments! Changing from the Corvair box to R&P was amazing! It was like I installed power steering!!!
 
My inner tie rods are too long. Took my Chevy Cobalt R&P assembly to Geiger Manufactures (machine shop) to have them shortened. I'll check back with them 1-6-23.
 
LincolnuT, are you running that unisteer as a side steer? If so, can you post a few more photos from the front end, etc... Sorry, I did not mean to highjack the Thread but this is an option I have not considered...
 
Yes it is a side mount. I can take some diffrent angles if you want/need but it just goes down and hooks up just like the drag link does to the steering side of the front end.....Try it you will like it............
 

Attachments

  • 36632343_10215720845430543_3149721726879793152_n.jpg
    36632343_10215720845430543_3149721726879793152_n.jpg
    85.7 KB · Views: 33
  • 36703467_10215720845190537_5075065848104747008_n.jpg
    36703467_10215720845190537_5075065848104747008_n.jpg
    81.9 KB · Views: 32
Here's an update on the shortening of my inner tie rods :DSCN1548.JPG The lower tie rod on the top has been separated to show it's inner core. The inner core & the left side of the lower tie rod are machine cut from one solid piece. The threaded side of the top lower tie rod was drilled through it's center. The 2 lower tie rod halves are pressed together. The lower tie rod will then be welded. I am very impressed with Geiger Manufacture's work. I'll be using them again in the future. I removed the 2 steering rods & welded the 5/8" holes solid. I smoothed out the welded areas with a 40 grit flappy disc. Then i re-drilled the steering arms with a 9/16" drill bit (14mm). In other words , the original holes were 1/8" too big to fit my heim joints. I'm supposed to pick up my R&P assembly on Tuesday 1-10-23.
 
Yes it is a side mount. I can take some diffrent angles if you want/need but it just goes down and hooks up just like the drag link does to the steering side of the front end.....Try it you will like it............

Thanks. Will you post a photo of the front where the unisteer mounts to the spindle?
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top