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Ford Radius Rods

fluidfloyd

fluidfloyd

Active Member
Seems there was a discussion a week or so ago about fabricating your own radius rods. I to have often thought about that but never went much further on it. Now I am rethinking some design projects and that idea might be in the mix. What I don't have is a actual OEM part in hand to measure. So here I stand with my begging hand out. What I need is the actual over all width of the tube width and height width at both ends of the tube and the distance between those measurements. Don't really care what year or length as I would design it to fit the application. I am only do a preliminary concept design at this time but I am leaning towards using split radius rods. Any help will be appreciated. This is not a rush deal so I won't be bugging anyone to hurry up. Thanks to all.
George
 
fluidfloyd said:
Seems there was a discussion a week or so ago about fabricating your own radius rods. I to have often thought about that but never went much further on it. Now I am rethinking some design projects and that idea might be in the mix. What I don't have is a actual OEM part in hand to measure. So here I stand with my begging hand out. What I need is the actual over all width of the tube width and height width at both ends of the tube and the distance between those measurements. Don't really care what year or length as I would design it to fit the application. I am only do a preliminary concept design at this time but I am leaning towards using split radius rods. Any help will be appreciated. This is not a rush deal so I won't be bugging anyone to hurry up. Thanks to all.
George
Click to expand...

It would be hard to build split 'bones as shown by Spanky in the last post, but to build them like RPM does and others is quite simple. The looks of them are the only difference as they work the same.
 
I thought about building my own for a while but decided if I duplicated something I could buy it would be easier (and cheaper) to buy and spend my time creating what isn’t available.
 
T-Test said:
It would be hard to build split 'bones as shown by Spanky in the last post, but to build them like RPM does and others is quite simple. The looks of them are the only difference as they work the same.
Click to expand...

I need the shape of the original Ford units. That is why I was asking for dimensional help. I will contact a couple of hot rod shops I know and see what they have sitting in their shops. Thanks,

George
 
I guess the dimensions shown in the Speedway page are for a modified part, not the original, huh?
 
Spanky said:
I guess the dimensions shown in the Speedway page are for a modified part, not the original, huh?
Click to expand...

I should have been more specific. Radius rod tubes are basically a flat sided tube in the long or vertical axis. The top and bottom sides are rounded. The tube tapers in the vertical axis from the reared housing to the chassis mounting point. I need the width or flat side dimensions and the vertical dimension across the two rounded surfaces at both the rear and forward points. No matter how long I make those measurements would not change. Only the taper angle would change. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks.

George
 
fluidfloyd said:
Spanky... I am aware of the Speedway parts. I hate to pay that price only to have to cut the yoke end off as I won't mount them that way. Thanks for the link.

George
Click to expand...
You going to the Nationals? If so, I'll give you a set of bones with bungs welded in already. Let me know. They are from a "40 Ford.
 
T-Test said:
You going to the Nationals? If so, I'll give you a set of bones with bungs welded in already. Let me know. They are from a "40 Ford.
Click to expand...
And I forgot to ask--front or rear because of your explanation in post #8
 
T-Test said:
You going to the Nationals? If so, I'll give you a set of bones with bungs welded in already. Let me know. They are from a "40 Ford.
Click to expand...

T-Test... Thanks for your generous offer. I do appreciate it but I am still in a concept mentality at point. Due to the requirements of my
preliminary thinking I do see using the original units. I would hate to have your parts sitting on a shelve long after they plant my ols carcass. If I see a way to fabricate what I need then would be way ahead of the game considering the modification time of using the Ford OEM parts. I have about three different rear suspension designs I'm sketching on. One is complete and in a cad drawing. The other two are in thought design. Just have to decide which one to use. Just so you will know, I do have a fully equipped machine shop. All my equipment is big, heavy and very rigid and made in the USA, England, Germany & Italy. This stuff will be around long after humans have quite manufacturing anything. Again, thanks for your offer. I really do appreciate it.

George
 
fluidfloyd said:
T-Test... Thanks for your generous offer. I do appreciate it but I am still in a concept mentality at point. Due to the requirements of my
preliminary thinking I do see using the original units. I would hate to have your parts sitting on a shelve long after they plant my ols carcass. If I see a way to fabricate what I need then would be way ahead of the game considering the modification time of using the Ford OEM parts. I have about three different rear suspension designs I'm sketching on. One is complete and in a cad drawing. The other two are in thought design. Just have to decide which one to use. Just so you will know, I do have a fully equipped machine shop. All my equipment is big, heavy and very rigid and made in the USA, England, Germany & Italy. This stuff will be around long after humans have quite manufacturing anything. Again, thanks for your offer. I really do appreciate it.

George
Click to expand...

Like you, I have a nice assortment of machining tools, not American made, but still work just fine. I have found out sometimes it is just easier to buy something rather than take the time to manufacture what I need. Time is more important to me than anything, when it comes to finishing a project, which I can't do very well now due to health issues. That said, it is still good to say--I built that at home in my shop.

I also have the rear end and radius rods from that same '40 Ford, if you are interested..
 
HenrysT said:
Here's an article from the H.A.M.B.... Technical - 36 Ford rear bones?
Don't know if this is something you're thinking of ?...
Click to expand...

Thank You HenrysT. I did read through it and was pretty much aware of the issues. The thin wall "formed" tube and welded seams along with age and internal rust issues are on reason I don't really want to use them. After I finish running the calculations I probably will make a decision. The tapered profile is what I really was after. Getting there is the problem We'll see.
George
 
T-Test said:
Like you, I have a nice assortment of machining tools, not American made, but still work just fine. I have found out sometimes it is just easier to buy something rather than take the time to manufacture what I need. Time is more important to me than anything, when it comes to finishing a project, which I can't do very well now due to health issues. That said, it is still good to say--I built that at home in my shop.

I also have the rear end and radius rods from that same '40 Ford, if you are interested..
Click to expand...

T-Test... Again I have to thank you for your generosity. As I told HenrysT, I really don't plan on using a Ford original unit. I will have the dimensions this weekend and then make a decision as to even making them or going to Plan B. As there are no commercial parts like I am looking for I would have to build them and that's OK with me. That's what I do on a daily basis so it's just another day in the grinder. Not sure if you or anyone else ever saw the first car I build after I moved to Arkansas in April of 2006. Below are links to the company that contracted me and my son to build the#1 car. Not a plug or advertising them as they are not T-Buckets or hot rods . Hope you like them. Thanks again.
George

This first link is the #1 street legal Scarab race car. The aluminum body was built in Poland in one of the former MIG aircraft factories. I did all of the design work in CAD then my son and I fabricated the entire chassis and mounted the body. The paint and upholstery was done by locals shops by perfectionist and it showed. Car was taken back to the Kansas City, KS area for engine/transmission installation, header fabrication and wiring. I was offered the production run but was busy with building the frames for the replica/continuation Grand Sports Corvettes built in 1963 by Duntov. Much easier frame to build then the Scarabs.

www.scarab-motorsports.com

I latter went to KC and again did the design work and some of the fabrication of the chassis for a true FIA certified race ready Scarab. This car is now in England and probably won't be seen back in the US.

Scarab Motorsports LLC

One more thing. Both cars were featured in a magazine that you might be interested. This magazine is printed in Wisconsin and is free for one year
(maybe 3 years now) and is of high quality print and photos.

The #1 street Scarab
| ReinCarNation Magazine


The FIA Meister car
https://www.rcnmag.com/garage/master-brew

Enjoy!
 
Wow! Some beautiful machinery. Too bad they had to hang those 'nerf' bumpers on the back, but . . . it's still one of the most beautiful cars in the world, IMHO. :thumbsup::)
 
I thought I quoted Spanky, but it didn't seem to work, but I'll ask anyway.

The Speedway wishbones would work in my case, but nowhere in their spec does it mention what caster they would provide. Unlike hairpins, they're non-adjustable except for very minor rear mounting vertical locations, which won't change much.

On my '40 Willys I had a Magnum front tube axle with 4-bars and I set it at around 6 degrees caster.

What is the norm that most guys are setting to?

Thanks, Dan
 
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