Low Slung T

Emissions test. Take the car for a run and beat the living daylights out of it just before the test is due. Make sure your test time is right around the time you have red lined it for a few miles just before you pull up.....

Gerry it doesn’t quite work like that here. They only look for the check engine light and the emissions monitors. No sniffer tests. Hers was Throwing a code and needed new cats. I bought some and replaced them but the flanges were so crappy I could not for the life of me to get it to seal. So now I’m sending those ones back and waiting for new ones to come in.

OK

Here’s some pics of my wiring harness that I promised. I hooked up the electrical to do som testing too. I’ll type that up once I get to my computer.

Alright, so I plugged in all the electrical and hooked a battery up to test everything out. Here is what I found.

Ignition switch works and starter engages when I hit the switch.
Tail lights worked fine. High and Low beams work as they should. Brake light work. Reverse lights are good.
Horn didn't work. I did some digging and found that the I needed to supply the switch with ground to feed to the relay. I had power going to the switch. Changed that and now the horn works.
Turn signals and Hazards...Didn't work. Flipping the turn signal switch turned them on solid. The hazard switch let them blink about 5 time then they went solid. After scratching my head a bit on this one, I realized that I still had the standard style flashers plugged in. So I grabbed the LED flashers that I had sitting on the bench and plugged them in. Now when I turned either switch one, the respective lights just stayed solid. I was planning on coming here and asking you guys what was up, I'm sure many of you already know what comes next... Instead a did a quick search and the Honda guys came through for me. Apparently some LED flashers are directional so I swapped the wires around in the plug housing and now my turn signal and flashers work.

Now I'm left with two things to work out. The fuel pump relay is not tripping. I'm about 80% certain it is related to the ecu not being tuned yet and the VATS still being installed on it. The extra 20% of uncertainty is because, from how I understand it, even with the anti theft stuff still being in the computer, it should still allow the fuel pump to prime and then kill it. I checked my circuit after the relay, including my fuel pump kill switch, by giving it a little jumper and everything else works good. Right now, I'm not to worried about this and will circle back to it once I know my computer isn't interfering.
The lost thing I checked is my ability to connect a scan tool too the computer through the OBD port. It wont connect so I have to check the wiring out. I'm pretty sure I wired it correctly but even just having 1 pin off will keep it from connecting.

One last issue I have. I have the Dietz type 7 headlight housings from speedway.(linked below) I have 4 wires that need to go through the holes that is in the mounting bolt(high, low, turn, ground). While I can get the wires through by themselves, there is no way I can get them through when they have terminals on them. Have any of you guys run into this issue and what did you do? I have thought of a couple solutions, none of which I really like. 1- Drill out the originally hole a bit, but this will make the mounting bolt weak. 2 - Drill a new and bigger hole straight through the hosing and put a grommet in it. 3 - Run the wires through the hole, then terminate them. This one leaves the wires "stuck" in the housing. I'm leaning towards 3 as this one is the cleanest without sacrificing strength of the mounting bolt and is only a pain until after I get it painted and final assembled.

Speedway Black Dietz Type 7 Inch Headlight Bucket

Why not just splice & extend the wires to a place where the connector(s) won't show?

Could you use a separate spade connector on each wire instead of the single connector with
3 wires. Each wire with spade connector might be small enough to slip thru the hole.

Let me get some pics for you guys.

So this is the hollow bolt that the wires are supposed to go through. I plan on have a weatherpack connected in the center are of the mount.


The wires have to go through this hole inside the housing. With the terminals on the end of the wire, I can get two of them through. As soon as I try the third, I can’t get it to go.

This is what I'm thinking, I got three 12 gauge wires thru the hole in the bolt.


.

Indycars what are you three wires for? I have four. High Beam, Low abeam, Turn Signal and Ground.

Got the electrical all sorted out this afternoon. Turns out the bulk head connector wasn’t tight. So now the fuel pump works like it should and the pcm will talk to my scan tool. Also got my USB charging port wired up. All that’s left is to deal with the headlight wires and put some auxiliary lights in. Plan on one in my fuse box area and maybe one or two under the dash. I have the circuit built in already with a toggle. Just need to connect the lights to the other end of the toggle and run their grounds and they will be good.

Here are some pics of my in car wiring.

G'Day DW,
I had a similar problem with the same lights on a car I built here. I just drilled the housing and put a grommet in the hole, then pushed the wiring thru in a sheath. Works fine.
Regards,

AusBucket. I might do that. I plan to cut that mounting bolt down some. Maybe when I do that I can get the wires through since it is less distance. I that that I’ll try that first.

Does this plug plug into the weather pack? What ends are you using on the headlight side? spades?

Henry’s T on the headlight the turn signal wire goes straight into the bulb. The low an high beam wires going into a standard headlight plug. They are female spade. The ground wire is spliced 2 into 1. Inside the housing 1 goes directly to the turn signal bulb and the other into the headlight plug that is female spade. The terminal I put a pick of goes into a weatherpack just outside of the housing.

If you get a small screwdriver to release the spades from the head light plug, cut the spades off, feed those wires last, and crimp new spades on and reinsert into the head light plug. or put a ground lug on the bolt head and another one on the nut

An issue you will come across after threading the wiring thru the mounting bolt is having to disassemble the plug to get the lock nut and washer off if (and when) you want to take the light back off for any reason. That was the main reason I drilled another access hole in the light bucket, was only going to get caught once!

Can be a bit of a trial to get the wire through things. I ran the wires inside the chassis rails as well.

Nice work, Gerry. That really does make for a very sanitary look. I wonder what happens when you want to add a gizmo that requires electric power after the build?