Fiber Glassing Tips
- Thread starter Indycars
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choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Some good info.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Yes! Thank both of you for the idea of that series.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Fiberglass mat-
Chopped strand mat is made up of short randomly oriented strands of fibers that are held together with a styrene binder. When polyester or vinylester resin is added, the binder dissolves and the fibers can be moved around. Mat is great for molds or parts where thickness is needed. If strength is needed, layer the mat between woven fiberglass cloth. Chopped strand mat is NOT compatible with epoxy resin.
Available in 3/4 oz., 1-1/2 oz., 2 oz. and I've even used 3 oz.
The 3 oz. is quite thick and makes for some really fast layups. But it hates inside/outside corners and small radiuses.
Chopped strand mat is made up of short randomly oriented strands of fibers that are held together with a styrene binder. When polyester or vinylester resin is added, the binder dissolves and the fibers can be moved around. Mat is great for molds or parts where thickness is needed. If strength is needed, layer the mat between woven fiberglass cloth. Chopped strand mat is NOT compatible with epoxy resin.
Available in 3/4 oz., 1-1/2 oz., 2 oz. and I've even used 3 oz.
The 3 oz. is quite thick and makes for some really fast layups. But it hates inside/outside corners and small radiuses.
Indycars
Well-Known Member
@DonnyRay
I have not doubt that you could help us FG inept humans to feel good about our FG, please
post anything that you feel is pertinent. I didn't want the load to fall only on @choppinczech
shoulders. Sorry choppinczech, didn't mean to put you on the spotlight !
I have not doubt that you could help us FG inept humans to feel good about our FG, please
post anything that you feel is pertinent. I didn't want the load to fall only on @choppinczech
shoulders. Sorry choppinczech, didn't mean to put you on the spotlight !
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I just bit the bullet and ordered various weights and types of fabric, chemicals, tools, etc when doing my bucket. It’s a stout investment initially, but having it on hand allows a better job with fewer unintended interruptions.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Years ago I was getting resin in 5 gallon buckets for a decent price.
Now just a gallon at a time. Good stuff though. No wax and a thin viscosity.
Polyester Resin w/hardener for laminating fiberglass mat, biaxle, cloth (GALLON) 819794020046 | eBay
Now just a gallon at a time. Good stuff though. No wax and a thin viscosity.
Polyester Resin w/hardener for laminating fiberglass mat, biaxle, cloth (GALLON) 819794020046 | eBay
old round fart
Well-Known Member
How do you coat the final coat to finish drying? Doesn’t it need absence of air to dry? I think I’m going to try that Sunflash stuff. It’s $94 on Amazon. I will lose enough to to much kicker to make the difference I think.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I’m not real clear on orf’s question, but I have had good luck using heat lamps to help cure the catalyst type resin, especially in cooler weather. Temperature matters. I haven’t tried the sun flash type yet.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
This particular wax free resin sets up with no tackiness. If I move it out into the sunlight, it cures really quick.
Our polyester resin is an Iso blend resin, this is a perfect no-run, no-sag resin for marine repairs and boat construction. Iso resin is more flexible and waterproof then your traditional 100% polyester resin. Ideal for repairing hulls, decks, cabins, and tanks. Good for repairing all boat surfaces. It is mixed with MEKP catalyst to harden. This resin is a low profile resin that does not need wax for it to dry tack free.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
You can spray light coats of a quick drying rattle can clear over a new layup too. Like Dupli-Color Auto Spray. It makes it set up quick.
Or, if your layup is the seen outside of a part and will need body work, it's the perfect time to hit it with some high build 2K primer while the layup is still tacky. Seals it up and fill any voids.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
I can't say enough positive things about this PC-11 epoxy.
I've used so many different brands and types of epoxies for bonding FRP to FRP and FRP to metal.
Sometimes you need a thin viscosity epoxy when there are no gaps and you'll be clamping parts together. Like 3M 08115 panel bonding adhesive. But those cure way too hard. As hard as glass. Not great for the flexing that comes with fiberglass car bodies and boats.
This PC-11 has the perfect consistency for bonding fiberglass panels. It's a bit thicker than body filler and just the right amount of stickiness to hold on without sags. You get about 30-45 minutes of working time and cleanup is a breeze with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.
The best thing about it is the flexibility when cured. Still hard to the touch but not rock hard so as to crack or sheer off.
I've used so many different brands and types of epoxies for bonding FRP to FRP and FRP to metal.
Sometimes you need a thin viscosity epoxy when there are no gaps and you'll be clamping parts together. Like 3M 08115 panel bonding adhesive. But those cure way too hard. As hard as glass. Not great for the flexing that comes with fiberglass car bodies and boats.
This PC-11 has the perfect consistency for bonding fiberglass panels. It's a bit thicker than body filler and just the right amount of stickiness to hold on without sags. You get about 30-45 minutes of working time and cleanup is a breeze with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.
The best thing about it is the flexibility when cured. Still hard to the touch but not rock hard so as to crack or sheer off.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Would that be good to glue the floor to the sides of the body before applying ‘glass on top and bottom?
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
It sure would.
Scratch up the glass really well where the two will meet. And mask off where the epoxy shouldn't be.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I’ll get some fine cut mat and mix it into a paste and trowel it in the gaps.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
Save fiberglass dust and even body filler dust. They make great fillers to thicken resins and epoxies.
choppinczech
Well-Known Member
This is the best sandpaper I've found for scuffing up glass or knocking it down. It outlasts any others I've tried.
The grains are very sharp and stay sharp for a long time. Plus it has a sticky back to attach it to all kinds of things.
The grains are very sharp and stay sharp for a long time. Plus it has a sticky back to attach it to all kinds of things.
