Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Rear Wheel Cylinder Kit ID ???

Indycars

Well-Known Member
I seem to have an unusual rear wheel cylinder for my drum brakes. The seals say they
are 31/32", but I cannot find such an animal. I can find 15/16" and one time I did find
some 1.0" kits/cyl for my Ford 9" SMALL axle bearing rear axle. I've searched on the
Wagner FC-19000, but don't find any related 31/32" parts. I bought and have confirmed
they fit, Fel-Pro 55035 axle flange gaskets. Also the axle bearing are Timken RW207CCRA.

Can anyone point me to correct wheel cylinder repair kit ???

Bore Diameter (in.): 1.378 in.
Outer Diameter (in.): 2.835 in.
Width (in.): 0.845 in

Below is all the info I have from my original components.

This first image is a composite of two photos showing how I took image below.
I'm using a eye loupe that provides 8x power magnification. Since there are so many old
guys, figured you might need the help. LOL !

FP03_RearWheelCylSealComposite_03215_03216.jpg
FP03_RearWheelCylSeaID_03214.jpg

I hate to replace my wheel cylinder when it says "Made in USA". Since I'm into the rear
axle replacing the gear oil and cleaning the housing, I wanted make sure the brakes were
the best they could be.

Ford 9" Gear Oil Replacement and Cleaning the Interior of the Housing

If I can't find a good replacement, then my old seals look good and I will just go back
together with new DOT5 fluid.
.
 

Attachments

  • FP03_RearWhlCyl_03218.jpg
    FP03_RearWhlCyl_03218.jpg
    316 KB · Views: 12
  • FP03_RearWhlCyl_03217.jpg
    FP03_RearWhlCyl_03217.jpg
    235.1 KB · Views: 12
Last edited:
Well this morning I was on the Federal-Mogul website and clicked on their catalog. Which you can see is also Wagner. Then it occurred to me that since the TBucket was first finished in 1979, that the axle had to be produced before that. I just assumed that there were only a couple of different Ford 9" variations other than widths, so I didn't pay much attention to the year I used. But this time I used "1968" Galaxie 500 and that's when I hit pay dirt. I found my 31/32" wheel cylinders.

DRiV - Vehicle Look-up

FP04_RearWheelCylinder-Brakes.jpg

Then I got even more lucky when I hit another website with all the different manufacture's part numbers.

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/wagne...linder?Year=1966&Make=Mercury&Model=Park Lane

Left Wheel Right Wheel

upload_2022-1-23_15-30-29.png upload_2022-1-23_15-32-54.png

I ordered the Raybestos from RockAuto, they will be here Thursday!
.
 
Guess what showed up today ???? Yeap, my 15/16" wheel cylinders !!!

OhMyGod1.jpg
 
Changing from a 31/32" to 15/16" (a change of 1/32") in wheel cylinder diameter would have been a 6.3% reduction is rear wheel braking force at the wheel cylinders.

Area (31/32") = .7371 sq.in.
Area (15/16") = .6903 sq.in.
 
NO, are you going to make me embarrass myself, making me explain why I'm not using my original wheel cylinders ???
 
Really, I promise I was going to tell so others wouldn't make the same mistake !

I wanted to shoot a thin coat of paint on the interior of the drum brakes so it wouldn't rust and be easier to clean. So I put everything in some white vinegar and used a halogen light to raise the temp to around 100°F so the reaction would proceed at an accelerated rate. ( I love acceleration ) Well it also pitted the interior machined surface even thou there was zero rust there.
So I'm in repair mode now, which was only somewhat successful and untested.

FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03230.jpg
FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03235.jpg
FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03238.jpg
FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03239.jpg

i-dont-always-get-embarrassed-but-when-i-do-i-make-a-derp-face.jpg
 
Wow! I am surprised it did that since it was not rusty inside. Thanks for the warning.
That makes two of us !

I wonder if I could have coated the inside with some grease ?
 
You have been selected to experiment to inform all mankind. Coat 1/2 of the interior bore with grease and repeat test then report (i you want to do so). We will await your decision.
 
Maybe rubber plugs and make sure the bleeder and feed are closed. I doubt that 95 or 100 degrees would effect the rubber.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top