Yep, that's what I got when I pulled the right axle last night, exactly 4" longer.
I'm thinking now that I might change out the bearing and seal on the damaged axle, reinstall it so the car is drivable, then take my time looking for a used replacement. We have good weather coming in a few days, and I don't want to miss it.
I have a 77 Maverick in my car, and it is a front removable pumpkin. Pinion is centered, but there is a difference in axle lengths. The 77 also uses larger wheel slave cylinders. I think the axle seals are larger in od also.
Lee
I also have an eight inch axle in my bucket and went thru the same thing you have on the damaged axle. Could not find a used axle anywhere and ended up with a new Currie axle, bearing, retainer and seal. This is not what I wanted to do but was easiest way and all new parts. Check out their web site under the 8 inch listing, lots of imformation. Use new metal lock nuts when installing the axle retaining bolts, thats is what Ford had from factory.
I'm heading down to a yard Saturday that has cars and parts going back to the '40s. They claim to have a few early-'70s Mavericks on the lot. With any luck, I'll find a decent replacement.
On a side issue, none of the seal drivers I've found online seem to be the right diameter for this, even the kits. Guess I'll save a buck and mill one tomorrow after work.
Voila - a new driver that exactly fits the seal! I love making stuff!
For anyone else who needs to do this job on the cheap, here's a puller I bought to remove the old seals. If you shop around, it's available for $15 or so plus shipping. Not as elegant as a slide hammer, but it gets the job done.
Make another "puck" the size of the axle , screw it on up against the 1 you have already , that way the seal is centered on the driver & will be easier to line-up & drive in .
dave
The axle housing will keep it centered. I have seen seals seated at different depths to avoid bad areas on the axle surface, ie not seated all the way in.
Yep, what they said on the dinged up seal area. polish it good by spinning it in a lathe, OR go to the Auto parts store and see if there is a speedy sleeve that will fit it. Its like a round metal shim that slides over the bad seal area. Or, a machine shop can make you one cheap....
As George said, the axles have alot of power and torque thrown to them, especially after something like 3.25 ring and pinion ratio (or higher) is thrown to it and some big sticky tires are out there at the end of those axles....
Yep, I hate the Bubba's working on things with claw hammers and pipewrenches....see that bearing spacer? The right tool for the job was a piece of tubing slid over the spacer and IT being hammered. A deadblow hammer comes to mind..... The also do make hammers with plastic and rubber interchangable ends....
Its called the right too for the right job.....
OK, I bought an axle at the salvage yard. It's already in the car, and I just painted the end of the flange an hour ago. One thing I'm concerned about is the "feel" when I turn either axle by hand. They're not very smooth - I can feel the teeth in the differential engaging. There's also some noise that accompanies that rough feel if I turn them fast. I don't remember the axles being like this before I pulled them, but I wasn't really paying much attention at the time. Maybe this is just a normal characteristic of the rear end. Is it possible I did something wrong installing the axle/s?
Yes, it might be the spiders, but I'm just not sure there's really anything wrong. I've decided to suck out the oil, refill it, and go for a drive. What can go wrong?
Yes, it might be the spiders, but I'm just not sure there's really anything wrong. I've decided to suck out the oil, refill it, and go for a drive. What can go wrong?
The axles should rotate smooth and free, could be a outter wheel bearing if it was OK when you pulled that axle....carrier bearings are pretty bulletproof since theres a heavy oil bath thing going on. Could be the posi unit if you do some dry burnouts....
Worse thing than can happen is a rollback needed to rescue the T from the roadside....
I was worried about that because I didn't change either axle bearing. Also, judging by the surface rust, the outer parts of the replacement axle had been in the weather for awhile. However, the bearing on that axle felt perfect, just turning it by hand, so I decided to take a chance and use it as-is. I pulled out as much of the old differential lube as I could last night, at which point she took an even quart of new oil. FWIW, I couldn't feel the roughness anymore after the brake drums were back in place, and it feels nice and smooth turning either wheel by hand. I drove the car a few miles today, and she seems to be exactly the same, no whine or other odd noises. I'll check the backing plates and wheels for signs of oil in a few days, just to be sure everything's OK.
Funny, while I was finishing all his, I noticed a small puddle of silicone fluid on the floor. I was sure it had something to do with the axle work, but it's a new problem, totally unrelated. It appears the adjustable proportioning valve (Speedway) is leaking where the adjustment shaft exits the valve. Wowee zowee, the fun never stops.
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