Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Bowtie T's build

Not sure you will be happy with those 882 heads I think I would have swapped them out if you were taking them off.
Love the custom fab..great work.
I wish I could weld like that too.
The colour really pops, I like it.
That is going to definitely turn heads when it rolls by.
What's your issue with 882 heads? Just queerios. I've ran them with good results on the street. A little port matching is a good idea.
 
Mostly for me its the 72 cc chambers, even with an expensive gasket its hard to get good compression.
Here's a quote from the Crankshaft Coalition.

SBC heads to avoid
  • The c/n 462624 is said to be very prone to cracking. Even though they can be found fitted with 2.02" x 1.60" valves and screw in studs/guideplates from the factory, they still are not a good choice for serious performance use.
  • 1971-up heads with casting numbers 882, 993, 487, 336 (and others) can have 3/8" exhaust stems as well as 1.72" intake valves. Heavy 20-30 Series truck uses these, mainly. Both small 1.72" intake and 3/8" stem exhaust valves may be found on c/n 261, 624. Also 1987-'95 center bolt valve cover-type head c/n 14102191 can also have the 3/8" exhaust valve stem.
  • Usually swirl port TBI SBC heads are not used in high performance applications because they run out of breath earlier than the RPM most performance camshafts need to make peak power. Some casting numbers for them are 187, 191, 193. Similar to the swirl port heads, but without the swirl-inducing vane are c/n 14011083 and 14096217.
 
Not sure you will be happy with those 882 heads I think I would have swapped them out if you were taking them off.
Love the custom fab..great work.
I wish I could weld like that too.
The colour really pops, I like it.
That is going to definitely turn heads when it rolls by.
Thanks Intrepid. Good eye on the 882 heads. I don't really know a lot about different heads but I think they will be ok for my needs. Lord knows i'm not going to be
drag racing or anything. Just want my car to look good and sound good. I already know how powerful these little cars can be. I thought it had plenty of power with
just the stock motor. I did put a Thumper cam in it too.
 
Ya ..with these light weights you don't need monster power, I have heard guys say it feels like 400 HP with a 140 HP inline 6.
 
Mostly for me its the 72 cc chambers, even with an expensive gasket its hard to get good compression.
Here's a quote from the Crankshaft Coalition.

SBC heads to avoid
  • The c/n 462624 is said to be very prone to cracking. Even though they can be found fitted with 2.02" x 1.60" valves and screw in studs/guideplates from the factory, they still are not a good choice for serious performance use.
  • 1971-up heads with casting numbers 882, 993, 487, 336 (and others) can have 3/8" exhaust stems as well as 1.72" intake valves. Heavy 20-30 Series truck uses these, mainly. Both small 1.72" intake and 3/8" stem exhaust valves may be found on c/n 261, 624. Also 1987-'95 center bolt valve cover-type head c/n 14102191 can also have the 3/8" exhaust valve stem.
  • Usually swirl port TBI SBC heads are not used in high performance applications because they run out of breath earlier than the RPM most performance camshafts need to make peak power. Some casting numbers for them are 187, 191, 193. Similar to the swirl port heads, but without the swirl-inducing vane are c/n 14011083 and 14096217.
For serious performance applications... I guess no factory head is designed for that. I ran the old 461/462 202/160 heads for years and beat everything at the light next to me. In fact, everyone ran them, they were the heads to have. I never knew them to be prone to cracking if you kept them cool. I guess it depends on the build. Of course those castings are all at least 50 years old... I run aftermarket aluminum heads now but only because of the crappy fuel so I can retain respectable compression. If you rode in my car with the stoker and 882 heads, I doubt you would find fault with them.. again, street car, not a dual turbo fractional mile serious performance car. Mill em .030, gasket match them, clean up the ports and bowls and from my experience, they made good power, good compression, 195 psi, good throttle response and flowed up through 7 k in a flat top street stroker. I only replaced them with aluminum heads due to a nagging preignition issue that I grew tired of chasing. I didn't notice much of a performance difference between the two, but the preignition issue was solved. Again, not an arguement, just my experience. Of course if money was no option, I'd order a NASCAR engine or the like, lol... those are hard to find at the bone yard. Funny, I rebuilt a mid 80's 305 roller tpi engine to drop in a iroc and sell because I wanted to retain the engine I had in it. I got lazy and let my machine shop go through the heads and they told me that those 305 heads were highly sought after for street racing. I thought all 305 heads were basically junk, but I guess the combustion chamber size made them desireable... one mans trash is another mans treasure, lol... with the increased cost of quality machine shop work and the reduced cost for aftermarket aluminum heads, with the crappy fuel that we have, it really doesn't make sense to mess with iron heads anymore if you are trying to get any real power unless it's a nostalgia thing. If you do your own machine work, that may be a different story. I know if I would have known how much I'd end up with in that 305, I would have bought a crate motor.
 
047.JPG New comp thumper cam, new balancer, and polished aluminum intake, timing cover, water pump, and pulleys
 
Looking kick ass, even made room for the mechanical fuel pump that's nice.
I had no room on mine I had to electric.
 
Looking kick ass, even made room for the mechanical fuel pump that's nice.
I had no room on mine I had to electric.
I read on this forum long before I ever started my build to make my frame as wide as possible to clear things like fuel pump and alternator.
It is 26 1/2" outside.
 
169.JPG While i was putting engine and suspension back together, Had the body at the painter. Originally I wanted to go with satin black.
But, as time went on I decided to go with a gloss black. My painter talked me into adding the pearl. He sprayed a sample for me to look at and I thought it looked great. So now it is
Tuxedo black with green pearl.
 
Bet that looks amazing in reality. I always liked Pearl, did the same on my Topolino. Pearl over all the paint graphics etc.
 
Looks great.
I am thinking tuxedo black myself with a silver pearl.
Its hard to tell but is that a short or long water pump .. single pulley setup ??
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top