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Brake Line Rant

bobs66440

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
I absolutely HATE doing brake lines! Uggghhh! I can rebuild engines, build race cars, sheet metal work, body & paint, weld, blah blah blah, but for some reason, being able to create a simple leak-free brake line connection seems impossible to me. Why is it so difficult?? It's not rocket science!

I have tried three different flaring tools and they all butcher the flare the same way. I'm lucky if I can get two out of ten connections to not leak. I always make the line a little long so I have room to cut off the botched flare and try again, over and over. Man is it frustrating! Even the banjo bolts on the calipers are leaking. There has to be a better way do do this!

I have avoided buying the super expensive flaring tool because I would only use it once every ten years. Plus I know people that successfully use the one I have (though I've also read they are crap)...I guess it's hit and miss...

Someone needs to invent a fool-proof method for making custom brake lines...

Sorry, rant over...
 
Here you go:
https://www.ridgid.com/ca/en/345-manual-flare-tool

Sold at Home depot, you can use the double flare pieces from the cheapy sets. Makes a nice flare and its easy to use and its not super expensive.

Lots of lube and NOT a lot of pressure when twisting the handle.

Make sure your tube is properly sized and the stick out is not to long as it will cause cracks.

Most of all take your time, if you find yourself getting frustrated, leave it and work on something else!

As for the banjos, check the two crush washers and make sure the banjo is not hitting anything when tightening. If all is okay, just tighten it up a bit more.
 
I know all about getting flustered working with brake lines I have gone through the same thing many times. But I finally did figure out how to do it correctly!
The tubing Cutter actually leaves a small bur inside when it's done cutting through.
My trick is to take a small tapered reamer and go inside the tubing lightly and remove a little metal.
Remove as much as you need to I even removed a little more metal so that the tubing is back to its original inside diameter.
I hope this help you

bob
 
The tubing Cutter actually leaves a small bur inside when it's done cutting through. My trick is to take a small tapered reamer and go inside the tubing lightly and remove a little metal.

I use a stepped drill bit in a cordless drill to do this. The bits are available cheap from Harbor Frieght.

A little drop of oil on the double flare insert helps. Also, the length of tube that sticks up above the tool for forming the double flare should be equal to the thickness of the double flare insert flange.

The flaring tool has to be good quality. A cheap tool is an exercise in frustration. You don't need an expensive hydraulic tool, but something like Ridgid brand should do well.

For what it's worth, I can do double flares pretty consistently now, but I have switched to 37* AN flares for most everything. They're easier to do, stronger and are made to be disassembled and reassembled many times. Adapters are available that allow them to be used on most double flare locations such as calipers and wheel cylinders.

Mike
 
Thanks for the replies! Keeper, I checked out the Rigid tool, it looks good, thanks! I think I'll try the stat-o-seals on the banjo bolts too. I'll keep you posted...
 
I think brake line is harder now a days. I have the same old Blue Point kit along with 3 other kits and non of them make a nice flare now yet they worked fine 10+ years ago. I finally bought one of those expensive ones from Eastwood and it makes perfect flares every time. I file, debur, tried different cutting methods, oil on the flare and it either pushed the tubing down or makes the flare off center. I've tried different brands of tubing as well. The only thing I have not tried is that new soft brake line.

http://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ode=ga220010&gclid=CKX6zM2Wxr8CFUFrfgodtk4AXA
 
If I were to redo my brake lines, I would go with the pre-terminated lines from NAPA (and maybe the other big parts houses).
They come in 6" increments, from 6" to 60". It's easy to make up over-length with loops and joggles.
 
Been using Snap on for years and haven't ever had a problem, but I bought it in 1969 or so when they were cheap! LOL
 
I found this while back building my wifes nova and fell in love with the stuff its soft and you can bend it and rebend if its not right I'm not sure if it is legal in the state but Ive heard it is in Europe. Its all i'll ever use again.
its called cunifer and is made of copper ,nickle, ferrous
http://fedhillusa.com/
john
 
I found this while back building my wifes nova and fell in love with the stuff its soft and you can bend it and rebend if its not right I'm not sure if it is legal in the state but Ive heard it is in Europe. Its all i'll ever use again.
its called cunifer and is made of copper ,nickle, ferrous
http://fedhillusa.com/
john
It says on their FAQ page that it's DOT approved. That looks like great stuff...
 
If I were to redo my brake lines, I would go with the pre-terminated lines from NAPA (and maybe the other big parts houses).
They come in 6" increments, from 6" to 60". It's easy to make up over-length with loops and joggles.
I have been using the pre-made lines when possible, but the lengths just don't work out sometimes. I used one and put a loop in it under the car where you can't see it, but it wouldn't look too good out in the open. I didn't know Napa sold it in 6" increments. I've been using the ones from Autozone that are in 10" increments. I have to remake one line, I'll see if it will work out. Thanks.
 
I have the Mastercool kit. When the rear brake lines rusted out on my Town Car, I decided that for what I would spend to have someone else do it, I could have the mac-daddy of flaring tools, and do it myself. After fighting the usual tool from the parts houses for years, I'll never curse a flare job again. Tough to swallow the $, but dang it works nice. Buy once, cry once.
 
speaking of brake lines...I too am frustrated..help..anyone around my area....??????
come on down need help!!!!!

Thanks
 
I always run pre-terminated braided line everywhere, brake line your whole car in a couple of hours. There are lots of racers that run flex everywhere and never think twice about it. I know there will be plenty of people who say that you have to run hard line for the majority of it and use flex only where necessary, in my mind that simply introduces more connections hence more potential for leaks.
 
NOTHING is as SIMPLE as it seems, until you try it yourself. Never scrimp on GOOD tools to make you car safe, for your life and others depend on it!! Don't be afraid to ask for HELP!!! Someone lives close by that can help you.
 
If I was ever home I would flare some lines to specific lengths and pop them in the mail but alas, I seem to be always working.... :thumbsdown:
 
Knock on wood, I think I have it done. I had to remake one line and reflare one end. All connections are dry now and the brakes are bled and I have a great pedal. Fuel line is also made and painted. On to the next step...relax!
 
When I built the roadster,(the one to the left) I borrowed a en-expensive flare tool. It worked okay, but had some leaks on first pressure checks.
When I built my sedan, I bought a good tool and solved all my brake flaring problems. Sometimes it just cost more to cure little headaches. I also use AN fittings which I really like.
Lee
 

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