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Brake time

Pushrod

Active Member
I took apart the rear brake parts for paint and new wheel cylinders. The parts were so nice, all I had to do was clean and paint the brake hardware. The parts from down south are super rust free. Thanks Spirit.
 

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The rear brakes are done, got new parking brake cables installed today. I forgot what a pain it is to get the old ones off the backing plate. :mad:
 

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The rear brakes are done, got new parking brake cables installed today. I forgot what a pain it is to get the old ones off the backing plate. :mad:
Using a socket around the e brake cable to compress those spring metal fingers is sometimes helpful to remove them.
 
On the opposite side I used a small hose clamp to compress the metal fingers, and it popped through the hole. The first side, I did it like a caveman.
 

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With brakes at all four corners, I installed the master cylinder today...next the brake lines, that should be an adventure.
 
I suppose now would be a good time to get a prop valve and pressure brake switch. Can I get these at the local parts store, or do they have to be t bucket specific? ( Spirit or Speedway)
 
Don't know if the parts store will have exactly what you want. I went with the Speedway purple one on the rears & it did the job. Also, I recommend the mechanical type of brake switch. The pressure ones tend to fail at the most inopportune times. Like at the NTBA Nationals in Springfield (I won't mention any names!)

prop valve.jpg brake switch.jpg
 
Don't know if the parts store will have exactly what you want. I went with the Speedway purple one on the rears & it did the job. Also, I recommend the mechanical type of brake switch. The pressure ones tend to fail at the most inopportune times. Like at the NTBA Nationals in Springfield (I won't mention any names!)

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I agree 100% on using the mechanical brake light switch!

Jim
 
Do any of you guys have a diagram or schematic for the most simple way to run the brake lines on a t bucket? I can't watch another video or read anymore articles....everybody has a different way of doing it. There has to be one "tried and true" method. I'll pick the easiest one, and go with it. Fred (feel free to private message, I can give you my email address)
 
This diagram from Speedway is pretty simple. Run the brake lines along the driver side frame rail, & the fuel line(s) along the passenger side.
Brake_System.jpg
PS - I did not use RPVs or thru-the-frame fittings on mine.
 
Thanks Spanky, that's a good one, it's simple........like me. I already have frame thru fittings installed on the front.
 
Mine came with the brake line tee'd near the master cylinder and a seperate line running along the bottom of the rails from the firewall forward.
DO NOT DO THAT.
It makes it impossible to use a jackstand under the frame when doing any front end work. I like the seperate lines on either side for simplicity...but having run afoul of their current location, I would run them low and on the inner side of the rail.
 
I agree Hackerbilt, I'm staying away from the bottom frame rails, even if I have to go through the motor mount frame brackets to get to the front brakes.
 
I started routing the brake lines from the master cylinder to the adjustable prop valve, I've wasted about 6 ft of brake line so far just trying to get it neat and orderly......do I need to start over again?
 

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I'm my own worst enemy sometimes, today it was in the 90's and humid as hell and I'm being fussy with something that won't even be visible. Thanks for pointing that out.:thumbsup:
 

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