Busted bolt

[2xcrash]

Well really screwed the pooch this morning. Hadn't turn this motor over a year and It got stuck
Poured Marvel mystery oil and all the cylinder heads and let it sit last night
Then this morning gave it a crane to see if it would bust loose it did problem was it was the bolt head!
And if you gearheads got me ideas how I can unscrew this?
Getting real frustrated with this motor trans combo have half a mind to scrap it for a small block Chevy.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Whhoooaaaaa, Nelly! Bolt Head???? Bolt Head of WHAT? The MMO is good stuff, on occassions the motors rings or the pistons might try to stick to the bores in the block....
If Anyone is gonna have a motor thats gonna sit awhile, squirt some oil into the cylinders and turn it over some. I have several old shot glasses in my toolbox, I fill with liquid wrench or PBBlaster, I screw a special funnel in that has a piece of rubber hose on the end with a fitting that I have into the plug hole, pour the shotglass in, put plug in about 1/2 way, move to the next cylinder....I call it a fast pickle. A full pickle is where you completely fill the cylinders...be sure to label that motor that the cylinders are full....

Bolt head???? Where did this bolt head come from? You had the motor apart, Yes? If I have a motor apart and I stick the heads back on it:
1. I either take out the pushrods,
2. I tape off the intake face.
Usually do both....

I'm guessing here since there was not nearly enough info here to make a good response for you, if your saying a head bolt has a heat twisted off, that would not lock a motor up.
IF, IF your saying that you have to remove the head, pull all the rest of those bolts out, leave the one thats headless in, and gently pry and slide your head off so you can put either a stud puller w/long 1/2" breaker bar or Pipewrench, whichever yyou have.
IF your just wanting to pull out a broken head bolt, get a washer thats the same size as the stud, place it over the hole, now get a nut, lets say a 5/8's, or a old stripped wheel nut is what I normally use. I save shit like that for these things.....
Anyway, center the washer over the stud hole, center the nut over the washer, hold it in place with a pr of needlenose or visegrips, have your mig turned up, hold your tip in the center and let er rip. after you fill the nut at least 1/2 way, let it cool off for about 5 minutes, get a socket on your breaker bar, and unscrew it and replace with new one.
Always oil your threads or put antisieze on then....always....

Just for your info, A sbf or sbc are hard to beat. They are plentiful, they're everywhere, and everyone carrys parts for them

 

[Screaming Metal]

Bolt head....bolt head of WHAT?....Bolt head of the waterpump? Headbolt? Headerbolt? Dist. hold down bolt? Mysterious something from the etherialness????

Oh yes, I forgot, after you put oil in the cylinders, a shot glass is less than your combustion chamber volume, after you do all the cylinders. rotate the motor 2 times with your pull bar. DO NOT USE YOUR STARTER! Do it by hand, and do it slowly, to get the oil all over everything....

 

[2xcrash]

Sorry I've tried to post a pic to show what snapped. It's the head to the bolt that holds the pully with the timing mark. Don't know what you call it. I left the plugs out. I've seen what happens when you get water in a compressor!
After an overnight soak I tried to turn it and the head of the bolt snapped.

The bolt head didn't cause the motor to seize...

 

[2xcrash]

Motor has been together since I brought it home 1 year ago. Also I saw the motor run before I put it on my truck with good oil pressure

 

[ellis8500]

What engine do you have? That pulley is the harmonic balancer. That is one big bolt! No way you could break that with a hand wrench. Tell us what you did in detail.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Ellis....331 caddy....
Yea, you'd be really doing something with a pull handle to break a Harmonic Balancer bolt, hahaha. Look at what broke off, the head and the washer....should have a big, thick black washer under the head...
Someone probably torqued it down dry and it had some trash on the threads....I've seen so called mechanics run em down with a impact. That and probably had some loctite put on it....
Its best to take the motor pulley off, get that harmonic balancer off and get it cleanen up. That way you can see what you got....
If it broke off flush with the end of the crankshaft, you can weld a nut onto the broken bolt. If thats too hard to get out that way, you'll probably have to drill it out.
Probably been in there a while....

 

[T-Test]

East peezy on the crank snout-- it may break off also. Do like S/M said and soak over night with PB Blaster or equivalent, and then lightly hit it with the pull bar to see if it moves. If not, hit it lightly with the air wrench to see if it moves. If not. you're in trouble.

 

[2xcrash]

I took the balancer off. Left the washer on. Soaked it with marvel mirical oil overnight. Went this morning with a wrench turning clockwise and the bolt broke flush.

 

[2xcrash]

So I'll ask another dumb ???(cause those are all I know) motor was a runner. It was stored in a desert dry garage for a year. How could it get so sized up?

 

[fletcherson]

I took the balancer off. Left the washer on. Soaked it with marvel mirical oil overnight. Went this morning with a wrench turning clockwise and the bolt broke flush.

Sounds like you had a pre-stressed and stretched bolt or hopefully for your sake, a non hardened bolt, or you were really cranking on it. If the bolt just broke from over tightening it and not due to thread bind, you could grind a slot in it with a dremmel grinder or the like and use a screw driver to remove it. Drill in the center and use a easy out. Drill and tap the broken bolt, run a pilot bolt into it and use a jam nut to lock it, then remove the entire mess. Weld a nut to it. Sharpen a drill bit left handed and drill it counter clockwise sometimes works. Drill it out and re tap the crank. Just some ideas from my past screw ups! FYI: they do make sockets that fit over the crank snout and use the keyway to turn it so you don't over tighten or loosen the balancer bolt. I say this just in case you don't know, not to be a smarta$$.

 

[2xcrash]

[FYI: they do make sockets that fit over the crank snout and use the keyway to turn it so you don't over tighten or loosen the balancer bolt. I say this just in case you don't know, not to be a smarta$$.

Thanks for the help. I don't know shit! Trying to muddle thru this by myself. Any help, helps!

 

[Mike]

So I'll ask another dumb ???(cause those are all I know) motor was a runner. It was stored in a desert dry garage for a year. How could it get so sized up?

Desert dry and temperature controlled? Or desert dry with temperature swings? There is always going to be some moisture in the air and all you need is a couple of really cool nights to jam yourself up. Mind that if a ring is stuck, then you are going to have rust on all of the cylinder walls. And it is impossible to create ring seal on a rust-pitted surface. Particularly if you have a moly-faced top ring. The sharp edges on the rust pits will simply rip the moly facing off the rings.

Try and get a small, flexible extension light, so you can get a peek into those cylinders.

 

[railroad]

All good advise, except the impact wrench. If the T is a straight shift, you might put it in gear and rock the car back and forth. If you can get to the flywheel, a wide blade screwdriver or pry bar will put a lot of leverage on the engine. Watch were you pry, do not want to break an alum bell housing. Again, back and forth effort is what you want to use. I keep thinking of stuff, like pull the plugs and leave them out. Good luck, keep us updated.

 

[2xcrash]

No driveshaft on this yet. still have the trans hooked up to the motor.
Desert dry with temp swings, 120-80 sumer, 80-50 now.
Anybody know what I'm looking at for a rebuild assuming that the heads are good. The motor was rebuilt then driven less than 20k miles.
I'm not looking to hop it up just get it on the road...

 

[railroad]

I would finish the T and then consider rebuilding the engine, not to say, get it running now.

 

[2xcrash]

I don't want to go any further on the T till I know how bad this is going to be $$$ wise. Ive had issues getting this motor/trans combo to work with my limited knowledge. If it's going to cost me more to rebuild this motor than it would to find a good running SBC/trans combo I might have to redo the motor mounts and trans mounts.

 

[fletcherson]

I don't want to go any further on the T till I know how bad this is going to be $$$ wise. Ive had issues getting this motor/trans combo to work with my limited knowledge. If it's going to cost me more to rebuild this motor than it would to find a good running SBC/trans combo I might have to redo the motor mounts and trans mounts.

It is hard to put a price on it without knowing exactly whats broken or worn or what the machine shop charges, etc.. If it is just rusty walls and you do the work and do not damage anything getting it apart, you may be able to just disassemble and inspect, hone it and replace rings and gaskets. Maybe only one set of rings, depending on what the deal is once you get it apart.That would be basically the price of parts, whatever that is. My suggestion would be to pull the heads and see what exactly you have to deal with. It may just be one cylinder that's stuck. You could also use one of those inspection cameras to look through the plug holes. I have gotten away with cleaning cylinder walls with pistons installed before. You need to know what the real damage is to make a decision. If you really don't like the engine you have and it sounds as if you aren't crazy about it, this would be a good time to make a change. You would be well served to get it freed up so you can sell it and recoup some $$$..Just my thoughts! PS: If you decide to pull head(s) and find a stuck piston, you might try using some chemical rust remover before beating on it, depending on how pitted it is. You would be surprised at how little rust will seize a motor, especially a tight recently rebuilt one. It is likely just a small spot on the lower portion of a top ring. Good luck!

 

[2xcrash]

Thanks Everyone for the advice. I'm really hoping that I can make this combo work out. It gets frustrating when you don't have the experience working on this stuff. Being a newbie and making a mistake on this old caddy set up cost a lot more than a SBC does.
I'm working out of town all weekend and the cylinders are soaking so it's best I'm not there messing with it, cause I'm soooo patient

 

[T-Test]

Thanks Everyone for the advice. I'm really hoping that I can make this combo work out. It gets frustrating when you don't have the experience working on this stuff. Being a newbie and making a mistake on this old caddy set up cost a lot more than a SBC does.
I'm working out of town all weekend and the cylinders are soaking so it's best I'm not there messing with it, cause I'm soooo patient

Try to find a friend or another Rodder who MIGHT help you out that has a little more experience than you. There has to be someone close by.Never hurts to ask and you never know who might become a lifelong friend. I've always said a good friend is better than money, depending on his/her knowledge of what you need, and can reciprocate back with.