Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Carb or EFI

Jeff Miller

Member
So I got a new motor last fall. A383 stroker with all forged internals. Right now it has dual Edelbrock 600 cfm carbs on top of a 6-71 blower. If money was no object would it be better to go with Holley EFI? Would it be more responsive? Would it be better for the engine overall?

Thanks
 
I know some die hard tunnel ram fans that swear they have tuned theirs to give instant throttle response, but . . . in the big scheme of things, the EFI is going to give the consistent "no-need-to-fiddle-with-it" response every time, and better MPG to boot.
 
Two EFI setups, $2,000 plus! About twice the cost of a couple of Holley carbs. How deep are your pockets?
 
That’s just the beginning! Now you need fuel pump 2 filters distributer (to let EFI control timing). All in about $3000 for me with a trans. Control for my 4l80E. I’m about half way there with my “Christmas present “ from Me to Me!! Lol
 
Ya, I figured around $2700. I have a MSD ignition. Does it really need to control the timing if I have it set properly to begin with?
 
Detonation with boost and crap gas is a real possibility. For what it cost to install verses what it cost to repair it seems like a no brainer to me. When you spend $2700 another $300 seems insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Just my opinion.
 
Detonation with boost and crap gas is a real possibility. For what it cost to install verses what it cost to repair it seems like a no brainer to me. When you spend $2700 another $300 seems insignificant in the grand scheme of things. Just my opinion.
Makes sense to me.
 
Since fuel injection is most advantageous where the climate is always changing, and often cold, so you always get instant starts and smooth off-idle acceleration under all conditions, . . . . .it's kinda antithetical to running a roots blower that's always finicky as hell when it's cold, and problematic until you've built some heat in the engine.

I'd just stay with the carbs and tune them to your most common weather when you drive the car the most and save the $$$.

ORF is dead on about boost and crap gas . . .
I'd be sure to get a boost retard module if your MSD doesn't have it built in so the timing will automatically back out as boost comes up.

Just an old lady's 2 cents . . . . .
 
I'd just stay with the carbs and tune them to your most common weather when you drive the car the most and save the $$$.
Yep. I wouldn't give up on a blower with two 600 cfm carbs. They may need to be 1405's however.
 
Last edited:
I had 2 AFB’s I think were 500 cfm if I remember right on a 350 and blower driven 20% over and never had a problem in 10 years and about 100,000 miles. I never could keep my foot in it long enough to run out of air I guess.
 
After a chat with kinsler I run just one sensor in the pipe from #1 cylinder. Its positioned a long way from the head but I was told as long as there is no 'backwash' of air it should be OK. Not sure how you stop a false signal with short headers from 'clean' air being pulled back into the pipe.

I made the cover to tidy it up. Remember the sensor also gets a signal from the air on the outside as well as in the pipe.

o2 sensor cover (2) [640x480] (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC).JPG


o2 sensor2 (10) [640x480] (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC).JPG
 
Im no better than most. Just make it shiny to take the eye off the errors.

Found the pic of it I was looking for.

on pipe2.JPG
 
Ok so I decided to go with 2 of these. They are supposed to be set-up for a roots style blower. They are 650 cfm.
Q-SERIES CARBURETOR 650CFM DRAW-THRU 2X4 SUPERCHARGER
-4150
q-750_0118141.jpg
 
Those should certainly get the job done! If you're not an expert (which I am not either) it might be wise to find a good carb guy/shop to help you tune them once they're installed. When set up properly, they should make that stroked small block a real snappy performer. :D:thumbsup:
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top