Cooling 302 Crate Engine

[SunsetCruiser]

Hello to all, I'm new to the forum and come with a big question...

What's the best way to cool my brand new ATK High Performance Ford 302 300HP Stage 1 Crate Engine I just installed in the T Bucket?

The car was kept by the coast and I think the old radiator isn't up to the task as I almost overheated on my cruise today into the office.

Much appreciated.

 

[Indycars]

Check out this article by a fellow TBucketeer Potvinguy called Cooling Secrets. Maybe it's not the
radiator. He just barely touches on ignition timing, but you should plot your mechanical
timing curve and post it here.

Cooling secrets

BTW, welcome to the forum from Oklahoma!

 

[SunsetCruiser]

Thank you, I'll check it out

 

[Spanky]

And, welcome from St Louis! Re cooling - be sure to check the obvious things . . . any air bubbles in the cooling passages? Is the fan effective (close enough to the radiator? shrouded?) temp gauge sending unit in the best location? etc.

 

[railroad]

Unless the engine was dyno'd prior to installation, you are looking at generating more heat than usual, during break in. Let us know what you have for cooling now, you might be good.
Of course a new proper size radiator does give one some comfort.

 

[Texfed]

Ignition timing can increase engine temp......so can carb set up and also spark plug type.
If the timing is too advanced it will run hot...this also applies to what your advance curve is set at.
If the carb (or carbs) is running to lean your temp can go way up! You can burn valves with real lean carboration........
I would do a lot of step by step adjusting and tinkering before diving into the cost of a new radiator......on the flip side a larger radiator is always a good thing , unless you live in a cold part of the country.
Anyhow, food for thought!

 

[fletcherson]

Basics first, is the thermostat in it and the correct temp? Is it working? Is the air purged, what is the fan setup? I wouldn’t think that a 302 would require a huge radiator if everything is correct. More details on your combination would help us help you. Sounds like a cool car.

 

[SunsetCruiser]

Basics first, is the thermostat in it and the correct temp? Is it working? Is the air purged, what is the fan setup? I wouldn’t think that a 302 would require a huge radiator if everything is correct. More details on your combination would help us help you. Sounds like a cool car.

Good call, I don't remember flushing the system for air when I put the new engine in. I took out the thermostat since I'm in FL and really won't need it to "warm up" ever.

 

[2old2fast]

If the timing is too advanced it will run hot.. No!
If the timing is RETARDED the engine will run hot ....

 

[2old2fast]

Good call, I don't remember flushing the system for air when I put the new engine in. I took out the thermostat since I'm in FL and really won't need it to "warm up" ever.

If you want the engine to run efficiently , you WANT the engine temp @ 185-195 , more complete combustion and less wear ....

 

[Spanky]

I took out the thermostat since I'm in FL and really won't need it to "warm up" ever.

I appreciate the 'warm climate' you live in, and am glad you don't have to warm up your engine. However, your radiator and cooling system will work better WITH a thermostat in place; just be sure to drill a couple of relief holes in it. If you don't want a thermostat, some guys will use a washer of similar diameter to provide a slight restriction in the coolant flow, and allow the radiator to do its job as a heat exchanger more efficiently. Just a thought . . .

 

[409T]

No restrictor! If you leave out the thermostat you are going to INCREASE cooling ability, however as @2old2fast said, you also want the engine temp to be 189-195 so there is a trade off there and you need to decide what is more important. The more flow you have the better will be your cooling. That is why you can buy overdrive pulleys to speed up your water pump. The idea that keeping the water in the radiator longer for better cooling is a myth. If you restrict the flow you keep water in the engine longer, giving it an opportunity to turn to steam, especially in the heads. Steam doesn't do any cooling and now you have a serious problem.

 

[fletcherson]

Good call, I don't remember flushing the system for air when I put the new engine in. I took out the thermostat since I'm in FL and really won't need it to "warm up" ever.

Ok, the thermostat is important to maintain the temp, not just warm up. It needs to operate so the radiator has time to dissipate the heat. It’s important to cool it too. You want the t stat and fan, if electric, to work together. Otherwise once you get up to operating temp, it’s very hard to cool down if the coolant is continually flowing. To obtain consistant performance, everything needs to be controlled, especially engine temp. I would reccomend installing a quality t stat, 180 to start with, adjust your fan switch to come on at say 190 and be sure to purge the air out of the system, then see if things level out for you. You don’t want the fan coming on before the stat opens or too close to that time, let the stat and coolant do their job and the fan is there if and when the temp over rides the systems ability to dissipate the heat. Some guys use two speed fans or two seperate fans on two stage fan controllers if necessary, but the basics need to be established to determine if anything else is required. Keep us posted!

 

[PotvinGuy]

Two things:

1) Nail down your timing. I have seen so many hot motors just because their timing was retarded. I run 20 initial, 15 speed and 15 vacuum in my SBC crate. Your numbers should be in that ballpark, or lower if your CR is high. And if you don't have vacuum advance I'd highly recommend getting a dizzy with it.

2) Thermostat: run it or not, as long as it isn't sticking. Now if the motor runs too cool then you will need a thermostat. But my motor runs at 200° all day with no stat (temp control by variable-speed fans), so I wouldn't worry unless you are getting runaway temps and boilover. I know some like a cool motor, say 180°, but it is more efficient at higher temps. It's good to know how much headroom you have; that is, at what temp do things get out of control. I actually tested mine by shutting off the fans and found at 250° it got hairy fast. Nice to know the number on hot days when the temp gauge starts to rise and you start to sweat.

 

[Indycars]

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It makes sense to try those things that are easy and don't cost anything but time. You will
be miles ahead if you deal in facts !!! Use the Excel file below or plot it on paper and scan
it into the forum so we can verify and move to the next logical step.

I find easier to use the idle setting screw and adjust the rpm for each step in the chart. BUT you
can do it by hand using the throttle !!!



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