Drum vs Disc

[Robbie]

Good Day to All,

I'm starting a new thread that started in my "Disc, Drum, Spindles, oh my..."

At this point, it's been identified that my front drums are 37-41 Dodge Plymouth, and my spindles are 37-41 Mopar. Thanks to everyone that really helped identify the parts.

For anyone who ever needs Dodge Plymouth Chrysler Mopar parts, the two best website that has expert staff and know EVERYTHING are:
www.oldmoparts.com They specialize in getting you all the replacement parts you need
http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com They have a lot of upgrades/conversions/etc

At this point, I have one of two choices:
1) Repair my old drum brakes. This will cost about 120-150 with shipping and all
2) Convert to disc. Sadly, since it's Dodge, I cannot buy a speedway 200-300 kit. This kit will cost around 650-700 with shipping.

Looking at old threads, its been awhile since drum vs disc has been debated. Either way is acceptable to me, although I always love the idea of saving 100s of dollars. Drums are cool because they're old school, but are they good enough or safe enough? Disc perform better, but does that matter with how lightweight a t-bucket is? What are people's general opinions and what would someone recommend me doing?

 

[409T]

My wife's T-bucket has 4 wheel drum brakes and it stops just fine. Probably weighs 1900 - 2000 lbs. IMO if you set them up correctly, drums all the way around are a viable alternative if that is the look you want. They have to be better than the Wilwood 175's that are on the front of my T-bucket, although that is the look I wanted.

 

[Hotrod46]

My car has 4 wheel drums, also. Like 409T with his Wilwood's, that was the look I wanted.

My car weighs 1950 lbs with me in it an I often pull a small Mullins style trailer that weighs at least 600 lbs loaded. I can't think of a single time that I thought discs would have stopped the car better. That includes some mountain roads in Tenn. and Arkansas. Of course, I use the engine for most braking on downhill mountain roads.

What I do miss is the self adjusting advantage of discs. My rear brakes are self-adjusting, but the Lincoln drums on the front are not. I do have to adjust the fronts pretty often to keep the pedal from getting too close to the floor. Looks like your brakes are manual adjust, too.

The main advantage of discs is their ability to stay cooler than drums, reducing heat fade during repeated stops. Most of the brakes that are used on these cars are adapted from much larger and heavier cars. Our little cars just don't generate the heat load that the original donor cars do.

Discs can also be lighter than drums, but not always. There's no doubt that discs are the latest technology, but properly setup, drums will still get the job done just fine.

 

[TriodeLuvr]

It's only a matter of cosmetics, how you want your car to look. In terms of braking effectiveness, drums from full size vehicles are overkill for these little cars.

 

[Bennett]

I have old school drums all around as well and never once have I thought I needed more stopping power. I think it's comes down to what you like the looks of.

 

[Robbie]

Awesome. Appreciate the feedback. I'm having a friend swing by who owns a shop and does this work all the time. We're going to measure the win/worth. I'll keep y'all posted.

 

[john dioli]

thanks Robbie for post the sites my front end is a 35 dodge and i need everything but hubs and spindles
john

 

[Robbie]

No worries John. All the thanks goes to everyone else!

So, I've decided to rebuild the drums. www.oldmoparts.com was amazing. They know their dodge plymouth chrysler parts. Very impressive service. My parts are coming in next week. Shouldn't take me long to replace the brake fluid and put in the new parts!

 

[Screaming Metal]

If it ain't broke don't fix it even applies to brakes, too Drums are good, looks era correct for these cars. unlessyou just want the looks. The weight of the T is a lot lighter than the origional cars they were designed for.

 

[Robbie]

As a delayed update, I did get all the parts in for the front brakes. It was an overall easy install, minus all the fun filled grease cleaning and replacing. The bucket slows down way better and evenly. Sadly, it still seems to not be stopping to well. I'd describe it as being able to stop well, but there's no such chance of doing a true emergency stop.
So, I just opened the rears up. They were just as bad as the front and I'm completely rebuilding them now. Just like with my front brakes, the dude who owned it before me was wrong about what type they were. He said they were 9" Ford. Thankfully this time, they were Ford, but 8". Probably off a Mustang 2 around early 1970s. My local shop had all the parts (minus a spring kit that I've ordered from them). Should be a really quick rebuild of the rear brakes.

 

[old8ba]

i have converted Model A brakes f & r to hyd have been ok over many yrs, i run a dual m/cyl under body for safety sake with no remote booster, as I get older im getting to a stage where im thinking of fitting a booster as my legs get weaker

 

[Screaming Metal]

I'm running a small remote street rod booster mounted back by my tank and battery, its alot better than being without one. I have arthritis really bad and it saves my knees and ankles....

 

[old8ba]

i think i would have to run a vacuum tank as well as my 8ba doesnt have a lot of vacuum ??? ahhhh to be young again

 

[Quezzmo]

I had '68 GMC 3/4 ton 4x4 that weighed 6600 lbs. 4 wheel drums and no power booster. It stopped fine.

 

[all-world1]

I'm going with a pair of '54 F100 drums for the old school look. I will also have to install motorcycle fenders. Not sure at this point if there's sufficient mounting room on the backing plates for the fender brackets.

 

[Zandoz]

I'm going with 4 wheel discs on my build. Since I'm not going for any particular period look, I see no reason not to. But not having power brakes with my joint issues is worrying me.

 

[fluidfloyd]

A

I'm going with a pair of '54 F100 drums for the old school look. I will also have to install motorcycle fenders. Not sure at this point if there's sufficient mounting room on the backing plates for the fender brackets.

ll World,

What size are your front brake drums and how wide are the shoe pads? I'm looking for the source of a 11" diameter with a 3 1/2" wide pad and I tend to believe they came out of a Ford or Mercury truck. Thanks.

George

 

[baddawgcustoms]

I'm going with 4 wheel discs on my build. Since I'm not going for any particular period look, I see no reason not to. But not having power brakes with my joint issues is worrying me.

Check out the 7" power booster speedway offers. Been considering using it myself. Thinking of running a rod from the pedal to the booster/master and putting it right under the drivers seat. It's only $99.

 

[fordsbyjay]

I have disc/drums on my car with the GM Corvette m/cyl and the pedal pressure is very low. I don't think power brakes are necessary. If you have a very stiff pedal I would look elsewhere for a problem. I had a problem once with some old brake fluid and it was very hard because my brakes were all rusted up inside. An afternoon of cleaning wheel cylinders and calipers and fresh brake fluid fixed it right up.

 

[Zandoz]

Check out the 7" power booster speedway offers. Been considering using it myself. Thinking of running a rod from the pedal to the booster/master and putting it right under the drivers seat. It's only $99.

One of my major goals in planning this is to as much as possible have everything easy access, and if possible serviceable by me in my wheel chair. With that in mind I do not want the master cylinder under the floor, especially on the side of the car with no door. My plan is to use a floor mounted pedal set up similar to http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wn68FG5TL.jpg , with the master cylinders on the engine side of the firewall, directly above the frame rail. This configuration leaves no clearance for a booster.