Electric Fans . . . . Thoughts and Experiences

[Island Girl]

Hi gang, as I'm working on mounting my radiator and grill shell, I need to look at what fan to use . . .

My kit came with this nice looking, but probably lame Chinese model, most likely from Speedway.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chrome-Curved-Blade-Electric-Fan,20447.html

Rated at 120W, which would be 10A.

It says it's 1500CFM, but at 10A, I suspect it's a lot closer to 1200 or so.

From what I've seen in videos, that's barely adequate for a plain Jane SBC crate motor on a cool day.

As a better option, I found this one on Summit, that's got the look I like to go with all the bling on the car, and should actually move enough air for my monster motor.

(not too excited about the cost, but if that what it's going to take, might as well bite the bullet up front)

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bci-75069/overview/

For you guys using electric fans, what do you think of the Be Cool model I like, what are you using and what's been your experience . . . . also, how much motor are you cooling, and how does it do on a hot summer day . . .

Thanks in advance,

Darlene

 

[Spanky]

That Be-Cool fan looks strong, and all else being equal - ie. good water pump and radiator- should cool your big block just fine. I'm using a 16" electric fan* w/thermostat on my 350 small block behind a 3-row traditional radiator and Weiand aluminum water pump with no cooling problems, even in 90 degree weather. I may be just lucky to have hit on the right combo for my motor, but I think good components properly installed on any well-tuned engine will yield good results.

*6-7 amps, rated at 2000CFM, but who knows . . .

 

[rbsWELDER]

For the link that you provided, it says "Maximum Fan CFM: 3,000 cfm"!

 

[409T]

A properly fitting shroud is just as important.

 

[Island Girl]

A properly fitting shroud is just as important.

I've seen the importance of shrouds discussed as I did some research, but having looked at hundreds of T pics, I don't recall seeing any with shrouds where it would have been visible if it were there.

Maybe that on a T, the fan can cover such a large percentage of the rad, as opposed to a very wide rad, with lots of real estate on both sides of the fan, like in a muscle car, that it doesn't make as much difference?

 

[Dan the Man]

Try running a 165 degree or 170 degree thermostat. It's not going to hurt the engine other than slightly over fueling it if you are using a EFI system. If it is a carburetor, you will have no worries.

 

[409T]

I've seen the importance of shrouds discussed as I did some research, but having looked at hundreds of T pics, I don't recall seeing any with shrouds where it would have been visible if it were there.
Maybe that on a T, the fan can cover such a large percentage of the rad, as opposed to a very wide rad, with lots of real estate on both sides of the fan, like in a muscle car, that it doesn't make as much difference?

A rectangular or square shroud will cause a circular fan to pull from all corners of the radiator, not just what is in front of the blades. Is this necessary? I guess that is up to the individual, but it seems to me to be pretty cheap insurance. A black plastic shroud with a black fan may not show up well in pictures, if you can get away to go to the next NTBA national event you will be able to see over a hundred T-buckets. I've never paid much attention to who does and does not have a fan shroud so I could easily be wrong, but I'd bet that you would see more with than without.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Yikes, a $400 fan! SPAL makes good fans for a lot less. And I'd add a fan controller that varies fan speed (I use Jeg's unit). Might try no thermostat; I don't use one. I'm guessing you don't need any antifreeze, so run distilled water and a bottle or two of Red Line Water Wetter. My blown SBC runs all summer at 200º with this combo and two small pusher fans.

 

[Indycars]

Anti Freeze is also about stopping corrosion . I'm sure distilled water must help. I use a
anode in two places in my TBucket. One in the radiator and one in the aluminum intake
manifold.

Paid too much for those aluminum heads to loose them to corrosion.

 

[Island Girl]

I looked at the SPALs, but nothing except plain black, and only 1 in a similar motor power range.

I'll have to look and see what's available in controllers that can handle such a high current, especially when you consider the starting current versus the listed 26.5 A of run current.

Something like a controller for an electric bike might handle the current, but I'd have to build an interface to thermally control it.

I have a 160 thermostat with 2 extra bleed holes so there's always some circulation before it opens.


I'll run antifreeze for the anti corrosion properties, especially with aluminum heads and rad, not to mention, the engine maker makes a point of saying to use a name brand coolant in a 50/50 mix.

 

[PotvinGuy]

The Water Wetter has the anti corrosion chemicals. The Jeg's controller handles 40 amps, and uses soft-start so the current shouldn't be an issue. Here's another interesting controller: Proform 69596: Variable Speed Fan Controller | JEGS

 

[Guy]

I picked up a cheap one on ebay it only comes on just before the thermostat opens then never runs in Florida heat