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Engine bogs when floored

rubicon

Active Member
From dead stop or cruising at 50 mph and I floor it, the engine bogs down like it going to die. I checked timing, looked for vacuum leaks ( found none) removed air filters and check to see if the pump and jets are working. So far have not located the cause of the bogging. Any ideas?
 

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The accelerator pumps probably need to be adjusted to deliver a larger shot of fuel. See if you can move the linkage to the 'last' hole on the bellcrank for each carb.
 
If that's the setup from florida [automotion ??] I've heard good things about thier customer service , maybe give them a call .....
 
Here we go.
1. Has this been a problem from inception or has this just popped up
2. Have you just converted from gas to an ethanol blend or vice versa ?
3. Does the car operate primarily off the center carb or are all three in sync ?
4. Check fuel pump/pressure.
5. Check timing.
6. Does it ever recover ?
7. System not suited to atmospheric pressures in your area, remove carbs and manifold and send them directly to me, here in Los Angeles.

That is all, John
 
System not suited to atmospheric pressures in your area, remove carbs and manifold and send them directly to me, here in Los Angeles.
That is all, John

:laugh::roflmao::p:roflmao::laugh::D You betcha, John . . . and I'm sure he'll include a winning lottery ticket to cover handling!!!:thumbsup:
 
Any updates?
 
Sorry Fred, no update on delivery to Los Angeles of said manifold & carbs. Thru long distance observation I have determined that the whole car is in danger of atmospheric detonation and should be removed from the area (1500 miles in diameter) and promptly sent to ONE FINGER JOHN, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. ASAP
Remember the lives of loved ones and friends are in DANGER ! If you can not think of yourself think of them.
Will await shipping instructions and pick up address to further facilitate this most dangerous move. This removal will be second only in danger and immediacy to yesterdays total eclipse of the SUN !

I await your reply, John


P.S. Have you removed the carb tops to check for contamination ?
 
Also check fuel delivery from tank, possible debris in tan, blow out fuel lines, check and replace (if needed) fuel filter.

It's a relatively small car, whatever is wrong is within 10 feet.

John

P.S. Is fuel cap vented and is the vent opening, well, open?
 
First thing I notice is there is no Vacuum advance on the dist, That is Ok but how much timing are you running? Initial and total and at what RPM? A lot easier to check timing than to tear a carb apart, to start with anyway.
 
From dead stop or cruising at 50 mph and I floor it, the engine bogs down like it going to die. I checked timing, looked for vacuum leaks ( found none) removed air filters and check to see if the pump and jets are working. So far have not located the cause of the bogging. Any ideas?
It's that yellow paint! Lol... seriously, I noticed that you have the outboard secondary carbs linked together as dump carbs. That, imho, is likely a large part of the issue. I ran a Pontiac tri power for years, and those carbs are setup very similar. The difference is that the outboard carbs are setup to open on sequence, not at the same time. It makes a big difference. The rpm must come up before opening all butterflies or the engine will fall flat because it loses all vacuum. Rpm had a very good point on the timing as well. Try unhooking one of the secondary carbs linkage as a quick test. If it improves, your on the right track. Also, How are they jetted? Too much fuel is just that. Read your plugs. Enjoy! That old tri power was about the most reliable multi carb unit I've personally ran after getting it setup right.
 
(1500 miles in diameter) and promptly sent to ONE FINGER JOHN, LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. ASAP


Best it comes to the UK, just to make sure you 'merican' guys stay safe.
G
 
I'm glad to see everyone has a sense of humor. Timing is set at 16 degrees @ 1000 rpm and 32 degrees @ 3000 rpm per the engine builder. I check it and that is what I got. My distributor is a MSD which I believe is a mechanical advance. I have 6psi fuel pressure. The engine runs off the middle carb until you put the pedal to the floor. I do not know the jet size on the two outer carbs. The guy that build the carbs is suppose to be one of the most knowledgeable people when it come to Rochester 2G & 2GC carbs. He did the complete setup. (hotrodcarbs.com) The engine builder discuss it with the guy before he built my carb setup. Now should I play with the timing, if so, more or less advance? I don't know if this started from the beginning or not because I didn't start jumping on it until recently. I'm running 93octane Ethanol and adding Carb Defender to each fill up. I have a little 3000 miles on the car. I'm getting 11.25 mpg.
 
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I'm glad to see everyone has a sense of humor. Timing is set at 16 degrees @ 1000 rpm and 32 degrees @ 3000 rpm per the engine builder. I check it and that is what I got. My distributor is a MSD which I believe is a mechanical advance. I have 6psi fuel pressure. The engine runs off the middle carb until you put the pedal to the floor. I do not know the jet size on the two outer carbs. The guy that build the carbs is suppose to be one of the most knowledgeable people when it come to Rochester 2G & 2GC carbs. He did the complete setup. (hotrodcarbs.com) The engine builder discuss it with the guy before he built my carb setup. Now should I play with the timing, if so, more or less advance? I don't know if this started from the beginning or not because I didn't start jumping on it until recently. I'm running 93octane Ethanol and adding Carb Defender to each fill up. I have a little 3000 miles on the car. I'm getting 11.25 mpg.
Take notes of where the timing, etc is set, then you can compare each time you make a change and know where to go back to. Only make one change at a time, i.e. 2 degree at a time. small increments, then test,and see what effect is has. Seriously, unhook one outboard carb and see if that makes a difference. I would do that before changing any settings. You won't hurt or change anything by doing it, just unhook the linkage. Also, it's not just the amount of timing, it's when it comes in. It's tricky, too tricky to simply explain because there are many variables... trial and error are usually part of the deal.
 
Take notes of where the timing, etc is set, then you can compare each time you make a change and know where to go back to. Only make one change at a time, i.e. 2 degree at a time. small increments, then test,and see what effect is has. Seriously, unhook one outboard carb and see if that makes a difference. I would do that before changing any settings. You won't hurt or change anything by doing it, just unhook the linkage. Also, it's not just the amount of timing, it's when it comes in. It's tricky, too tricky to simply explain because there are many variables... trial and error are usually part of the deal.
Usually when timing a modified engine, I put as much advance in it as I can get before preignition. I advance untill it knocks or backfires through the carb, then back it down a couple degrees at a time to find its happy spot. Without a vacuum advance, that's hard to do because the engine will be hard to start, especially when it's warm. There are work arounds, Smokey Yunick used to lock the distributor and install a separate toggle switch to power the coil so he could get the engine to turn over before he would ignite the plugs. MSD sells several timing computers that provide timing control including simulated vacuum advance, limiters, various timing maps, etc. I had to employ one on my stroker to finally resolve the preignition issue that I had. I'm not suggesting that you do this, just giving some examples, food for thought. If the engine starts, runs, and responds well untill you open the dump carbs, that is a big clue. Look at the spark plugs. If they are grey and even, (while running on the primary carb) your close on the general tune. When you are cruising on one carb and then open both secondary carbs, think of the mixture change and vacuum change that occurs at that moment. That's a big gulp! There are progressive linkages that have a slotted link and allows the tuner to stagger or stage the amount that the secondary carbs open, in sequence, so that the transition from one carb to the others is smooth and you don't get that bog at wot. I set my pontiacs up so the secondary carbs opened in order, at about 1/2-3/4 open on the primary, number two started to open, then at about half open the third one began. If you are racing and have the rpm way up, this isn't as much of an issue, but the street requires more finness. Most street carbs, four barrels, have vacuum assisted or limited secondaries for this very reason. Just some more food for thought. Keep us posted on your progress!
 
If the carbs are based off of a Pontiac design, perhaps the folks in the Pontiac forums could help.

John

P.S. Do you have a shot of the manifold less carbs?
 
O.K., this is the kind of question that used to drive Mike crazy and wild. Rubicon has asked, essentially, why won't my car run right. After everyone has drooled and oooohed & ahhhhed over his ride (it appears to be very nice) we, as in the forum collective, have been asked to diagnose a problem that probably no one here will have access to (hands on access), to take at face value that this new (3000 miles) car was assembled competently and correctly, and that Rubicon has adequately & completely described what the problem is.
Please take a hint from Speed Talk and list all the whos, whats, whys, and hows
(specifications) of your car. I am not going to plow thru back entries to find these things out.
To be honest this problem should have evidenced itself from the very beginning. Although the timing seems a little short (might the ethanol blend), I would say (and this is just a guess) it is the carb set up.
Get an Edelbrock manifold from a swap meet along with a 600 or 750 carb (AFB or Holly), take off the tri-power (no, don't sent it to me, seriously) and get the car straightened out, running wise. Might want to contact the maker of the tri-power set up for advice also.
Summer is here and you should be driving not wrenching.

John

P.S. I can't believe that it took you 3000 miles to finally really step on it and fully air it out. Bad dog!
 

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