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firewall mounted master cyclinder

Mustang

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Does anyone have a firewall mounted master cyclinder? I wonder if that's better and safer than the frame mounted master cyclinder. On the frame mounted it seems like the rod pushing the master cyclinder, can come loose because it depends the adjustment you have on the rod. I was wondering has any one lost braking because that rod loosing tensionon the cyclinder
 
They look terrible . Use a good return spring on the M/C under the floor. I use a spring for BOTH directions.
 
I mounted my MC on the firewall. Did not want to take seat insert out to check fluid levels. Used 2 pcs of 1x1 steel angle as firewall stiffener; one vertical pc on each side of MC. I don't think it looks terrible. It's just there. Make it the way you want it. Of course, some think a Ford engine in a Ford car doesn't look right either but who are they to judge.
 
Twash4.jpg
mine is on the firewall....but, I'm also running a full nose.
Mounted mine there to have more foot room
 
Personal choice, I'm mounting mine on the wall.
 
I'm taking what is behind door #3...
pedal assembly.jpg
An above the floor/fire-wall mount pedal assembly...
Tilton 74 series.jpg
with a pair of remote reservoir master cylinder units...the best of both styles,

There are also single master pedal units, and remote reservoir master cylinders. I chose the short dual masters because the longer tandem masters would cut into oil filter access.

In my case the pedal assembly will bolt to a flat plate welded to the top of the frame rail...it should be more than solid, and the resevoirs will mount as high as I can get them on the engine side of the firewall.

Illustration.jpg
 
Mine is in the usual spot under the floor. I didn't want to cut an access hole in the floor so I'm going to silicone a mirror to the bottom of the floor above the master so I can check the level. Just pop the cap and look in. There's enough room if I have to fill it, I can use a squeeze bottle and a tube. It will be a bit of a hassle, but I figured for the once a year I have to deal with it, I would rather have a clean looking fire wall.
 
I have done them both ways. My coupe and roadster's master cylinders are both firewall mounted as was my old '38 Chevy years ago. They all have/had sturdy superstructures under the dash to mount a swing pedal. Both of my old C-Cabs, my son's sedan, and his previous T-bucket were all under the floor because the pedals were/are frame-mounted. Either way works fine; it's a matter of personal preference somewhat dictated by how and where you mount the pedal. If you mount the master cylinder under the floor, cover the access hole with a piece of aluminum or steel and the carpet will hide it.:thumbsup: The mirror idea mentioned above might be OK, but I would hate to be trying to diagnose a brake problem at night in a dark parking lot without direct access to the master cylinder...:confused: I've never had a problem with the linkage falling out. just make sure that the pushrod is made so that it's trapped in place and can't come out unintentionally.:cool:
 
I'm taking what is behind door #3...
View attachment 10359
An above the floor/fire-wall mount pedal assembly...
View attachment 10360
with a pair of remote reservoir master cylinder units...the best of both styles,

There are also single master pedal units, and remote reservoir master cylinders. I chose the short dual masters because the longer tandem masters would cut into oil filter access.

In my case the pedal assembly will bolt to a flat plate welded to the top of the frame rail...it should be more than solid, and the resevoirs will mount as high as I can get them on the engine side of the firewall.

View attachment 10361
I'm doing this with my bucket ---using wildwood clutch pedal and dual master cylinder at lower left of firewall----downside is this area

with headers , spark plugs and steering shaft is congested. but you can service it easily.
 
One shouldn't be 'safer' than the other one as long as the strength to support said items is adheared to. I prefer anchoring the MC to either the frame if mounted low, or a re-enforced firewall or a firewall with a subframe. I like the subframe under the dash and behind the firewall idea, as it gives you something to mount your pedal hangers, steering box, and steering colume to. Its todaltally no 100% needed, but is wise. Brake pedals, steering colume anchors have to contend with alot of physical stress.
If the firewall is strong enough, there should not be a problem. The one I had built with the 392 that I sold had a double tube framework built into the firewall/cowl area.Was handy to mount stuff to...
 
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Sorry folks, seems I slow down with age....my time limit had expired....it took me too long to proof-read and start to correct 'todaltally'....{Brainfart}.....
 
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/GotBrakes/GotBrakes.htm

Here's another way to do it. 90 degree linkage and the MC and booster (if you have one) sit up under the dash out of every things way. There are a number of store boughts and you can make your own, you that way inclined. My last car had one I built and I am just about to build another for the next project. A side benefit is, the MC is well above the wheel cylinders, makes for ez bleeding.
 
Mine is mounted on the firewall (RPM pedal kit) and I like it. I think it all boils down to what you like. Clean firewalls are cool, but so are busy ones!!! Here's a pic of mine:

mastercylinder.jpg
 
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_articles/GotBrakes/GotBrakes.htm

Here's another way to do it. 90 degree linkage and the MC and booster (if you have one) sit up under the dash out of every things way. There are a number of store boughts and you can make your own, you that way inclined. My last car had one I built and I am just about to build another for the next project. A side benefit is, the MC is well above the wheel cylinders, makes for ez bleeding.
What He Said! I LIKE IT!
 
How do you check it under the dash? Seems like a real PITA as well. Mine is under the floor. Four screws to remove my aluminum plate and everything is easily accessible. Very practical. Depending on your build style firewall mount may not be practical. Look how far the body is back from the engine in the above post or how low the motor is in the picture above that. Where everything is places depends on the car itself. How come you can't mount it under the floor? Everything is super tight down there but it all fits. :)
 
Here is another thought. Unless you have a leak, or extreme pad or shoe wear, how often do you need to check the level? If you keep adding fluid when it is a bit low, then forget to lower the level when replacing brake shoes or pad, you gotta mess.
Personally I like the under floor mount just fine. If I ran a full hood, firewall mount would be ok too. I just like a clean firewall. If I were more talented, there wouldn't even be a throttle cable through it. I just don't trust the electric accelerators yet.
Lee
 
Mustang,

If you choose to put the master cylinder low and under the floor you could put the reservoir anywhere above it. That could mean the firewall on the engine side, in the cockpit behind the driver's seat or under the rear deck lid assuming you're running a box. You could also mount the cylinder just above the floor with the cylinder pointing forward and on the front side of the firewall and again using a remote reservoir. Like others have stated, I don't care for the unit being up under the cowling as it makes it tough to service. Just my thoughts on the subject. Hope this will help you.

George
 
Everybody is going to prefer different things so what ever makes you happy. I'm just going to share my experience which dictates my opinion. When I bought my car it had this tiny little hole precut in the floor above the master cyl. It was smaller than the actual cap on the m/cyl. Now in theory, if there are no leaks you should not have to add fluid but I still like to check the level occasionally. The first time I popped the wire latch off the cap if fell down in between the frame and the m/cyl to where I couldn't get it. So now I am under the car using long screwdrivers to fish the wire out and when I was done I could not get the wire hold down back over the cap. There was no room to pry or pull on it. I fought for awhile and made many a curse word. Right after that I opened the hole up larger for serviceability. I could not imagine trying to do all that laying 1/2 in the car with my head under the dash. But that is how I think when I build stuff. Is it serviceable in the future. Good luck no matter what way you go..
 
Well, even if under the dash route is taken, get your vibratory tool, cut yourself a nice neat little removable access panel to get to it, make a bronze coverplate or a Alum. one, polish it up good....done deal. Could always have the plate engraved with your or the cars name....or something cool...
Would add some detail....
 

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