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Front axle options ? donors

fatboyman05

New Member
what kinds of front axle options are possible for a t bucket, as in years, makes and models of donor axles, plus what about making my own?
 
fatboyman05 said:
what kinds of front axle options are possible for a t bucket, as in years, makes and models of donor axles, plus what about making my own?

I like Total Performances tube axle myself. I have made several axles and it is a bear to get it all lined up perfect. The camber is welded into these axles when you weld the ends in. If you need the ends let me know I have several made up for Ford spindles.:rolleyes:
 
RPM said:
I like Total Performances tube axle myself. I have made several axles and it is a bear to get it all lined up perfect. The camber is welded into these axles when you weld the ends in. If you need the ends let me know I have several made up for Ford spindles.:rolleyes:

RPM (Ron) custom built my front axle I designed to fit my setup, but way better that I was expecting, you can't buy the level of quality he did mine from anybody... love it!
 
Your axle choices are limited to 2 types, a tube type or an I beam. The tube type is avaible in 2 styles. The first one has a bend in the area where the bat wing attaches and then is straight from there to the king pin boss. The second one has an "S" bend at each end. This is more of a classic look.

In the "I" beam you have choices too. The first is a stock Ford axle. I would recomend using a '32 to '40 axle if this is the way you deside to go. The Model A axle would be the second choice, It is pretty much a straight I beam with a gentle smile in it. The '41 to '48 axles are not a good choice because the wishbone holes are too far apart. When you split the wishbone, it severely limits your turning radius. Another choice here would be a Magnum or Super Bell axle. They are both designed after a '32 Ford pickup or heavy axle. If you watch e-bay you sometimes can run accross a dropped Model A axle.

The last type of I beam axle you will find out there is a dual spring axle from an Econoline or Chevy van. Some folks do use these axles. I don't recomend them for a couple of reasons. One, The spindles are big, ugly and finding a usable brake setup is often a costly proposition. The other reason is that they will lower the resale value of your car. Prospective buyers exspect to see certain "standard" parts on a car. This means the tube and I beam axles listed above. Dollar for dollar, you can't beat one of those.

Another thing that should come into play when desiding which axle to use is the style of car you want to build. A tube axle is a good choice for a contemporary build, where an I beam would work better with a traditional or nostalgic theme.

Lots of choices. This is where planning comes in. You really need to pick a style before buying your axle.

Ron
 
Youngster said:
...Lots of choices. This is where planning comes in. You really need to pick a style before buying your axle...

Ron

The only thing I would add to that is ideally, I-beams are also slightly flexible and can twist as a car goes over uneven terrain but tube axles are extremely rigid.

The radius rods allow the axle to move up and down and the flexibility of the I-beam allowed the axle to twist slightly when going up driveways such.

The tube axle's rigidity makes it better suited for a four-bar radius rod setup which allows plenty of movement at all angles.

135_0312_solid_04_z.jpg
 
Very well said...

by both Youngster and Lumenal. There are certain things in a build that really need to be well thought out before you start. Otherwise, you end up with a "hairlip" looking car that just does not look "right." Step up and spend the bucks and do the job right. Remember, anything worth doing is worth doing right.
 
Just to add to what Al said, the lighter the car, the more it benifits from a 4 bar setup. A heavier car will cause an I beam to function easier. That's why T's with 4 bars steer and handle with less effort than ones with radius rods or hair pins. If you are running hair pins, you actually hamper them buy welding a gusset between the bars. The flex that goes on with the bars helps them to work the road surface.

Ron
 
how would a true straight axle look? (as in no drop at all) perhaps with coil springs,

or what about an indepent front end?
 
fatboyman05 said:
how would a true straight axle look? (as in no drop at all) perhaps with coil springs,

or what about an indepent front end?

If you wanted to use a straight axle, then you'd really have to have a front perch that was quite a bit higher than the frame, especially with a spring over vs a spring behind setup... Anything is possible, it's your vision and as long as it's safe, that the most important thing... with a independent front suspension like a Mustang II front end, you're loosing some of the style points of a T-bucket... but that's just one man's option and it's not my car!
 
fatboyman05 "how would a true straight axle look? (as in no drop at all)"

Need to dig up a pic or two of Stitch's old ride...

Here's a shot of the perch.

chemi.jpg


and the straight front axle with built in pivot (sprint car axle).

8036.jpg
 

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