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Front shock mounts

Ok Resinator, the ones on your hot rod looks like they would work on mine yes?
 
Ask one question to ten guys & for the most part you will get 10 different answers. But at the end of the day you have to go with the one that works for you. Im going to modify what I have & make it work for me. A big thanks to all who posted. When finished I will post pic's. To make this modification look good will take some time . Machining the parts. Welding them together. And chrome plating. Be back soon.
 
If your steering rods are working fine and your just hitting your headlight brackets, move your brackets....
 
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Some guys have put the bottom of the shock on either the top or the bottom bar of the radius rod then move the headlight/shock mount rearward to fit.
Yea, if you connect onto the radius rod, I'd put a plate between the upper and lower rod to strengthen it....alot of force on that one single rod....Cut out a plate that has the theme of your car and put it there to dress it up and strengthen it.
Like a maltese cross, emblem of some kind, car name, etc....
 
Total had a brace to install between the upper and lower part of the radius rods. It was two pieces that bolted together that looked like fuel line clamps. If not already chromed, you can weld in a piece as SM said.
 
For the ones that said to push back the shock mount. Here is what I came up with.
DSC_0511_zpsa9a4970b.jpg

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The tie rod clears the mount but stills hits the shock. Now I understand what Resinator was saying. If I use the modified sh0ck mount the shock will have to set behind the tie rod.

Resinator Is your lower shock plate available to the public ? Thanks

I'm also looking into a bottom mount steering set up . If not back to the drawing board .
 
396, We have the lower shock mount plates available in a few different shapes (the "B" type #31611 is best for yours). The shock stud that goes on that is what needs to be longer. We can build you a set but it will be a few weeks. The best option is to go off the radius rods but that is a bigger job and not so bolt-on.

Extended Shock Studs szd(14).jpg Lower Slicktrack Shock mounts 4.jpg Lower Slicktrack Shock mounts 5.jpg Lower Slicktrack Shock mounts.jpg
 
Could you use something like http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Shackle-Plate-with-Shock-Mount-Hole,35384.html and mount the shock in front of the rear shackle plate/on top of the spring/eye bolt? That might move the shock forward out of the way of the tie rod. Have to measure the swing of the tie rod to know for sure. Might clutter the look (for some) of the spring and shackle, etc, but might be an option. Have to double check the compression of the shock too, since you'd be shortening the length a couple inches. I like your modification to the upper mount.
 
I'm with Mr. T.....one nice theing about shocks, sometimes they work better if inclined some....
Get your shocks to the angle to where they don't hit, wether it be vertical or on a 30/45, whatever, and make the bracket go to the shock.
Remember, Harley shocks are laid down a good bit, the valving inside and the fluid viscosity make it work good in that position.
the simplist and easiest solution is alot of times the best solution....
Would it be simplier, cheaper to change your steering brackets? Remember, yout suspension travel won't be a while lot unless your spring is really soft.
 
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Ok I went with the lower steering arms. Now the tie rod hits the bottom of the shock. Going to try M.T.B!s shackle mount. If that don't work I'm going to make a brace to go on the hairpin radius bracket & mount the shock there. Resinator if that don't work fire up your welding machine . Thanks Guys.
 
This is what I think will work for me. It is simple but not sure if it is strong enough . image.jpg
 

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image.jpg I have clearance . Not much but nothing looks like it's going to hit. I just have to drill a new hole at top of the shock mount.​
 

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