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Front suspension Bounce

raven

New Member
I have a '27 roadster with a spring behind type of suspension. The shocks are '39 Ford (tired) and are mounted to the spring shackles.
At certains speeds, the tires bounce like basketballs to the point that it's a problem stopping.
I am changing the shocks to tube style but wonder if there is any other place I need to look to remedy this problem.
The front tires are Firestone ribs on balanced '35 Ford wires and set to about 1/16"-1/8" toe-in.
Any ideas?
r
 
raven said:
I have a '27 roadster with a spring behind type of suspension. The shocks are '39 Ford (tired) and are mounted to the spring shackles.
At certains speeds, the tires bounce like basketballs to the point that it's a problem stopping.
I am changing the shocks to tube style but wonder if there is any other place I need to look to remedy this problem.
The front tires are Firestone ribs on balanced '35 Ford wires and set to about 1/16"-1/8" toe-in.
Any ideas?
r
Man did you come to the right place there is going to be at least 5 people who are going to give you help i for one had that problem with a 23 and it made me almost soil my drawers when it happened(twice) I had friction shocks and changed them to tube type and it solved MY problem but youll find out shortly that there are a few issues to deal with .Good luck and oh by the way YOU NEED TO POST PICS11:rulz:Ya gotta read the rules
 
I thought I did post pics with the post...
The rest are too big to post.
r
 
I'm finding out more and more that shocks are an important part of the overall front end equation. I started to get that bounce you mention, and suspected the chrome shocks I bought off of Ebay were worn out. They were, I could compress them real easily. So I bought a new set from Speedway and problem gone. Also had the same problem with my Son's T with chrome friction shocks on the front. Right one kept backing off loose and he would get death wobble. Double nutted it and it seems ok now.

Lots of other things enter into the picture, but shocks are important.

Don
 
Q-4000 said:
i know ill get crap for this but get rid of your front brakes and you wont have that problem :)

Actually, while I might not agree with removing the front brakes, that did remind me of a guy I know (Jerry) that had this problem as well... did everything we have discussed, but then he took his rotors and had them balanced... On heavier front ends they weren't a problem, but on a lighter front end like we have, it made all the difference in the world...

Here is what he said

...we been fighting the wheel hop on our bucket since we built it, we took the rotors off and had them balanced, both of them Speedway specials were out 1oz, best thing we have done, took just about all of the wheel hop out, keep in mind I did not have any side to side movement, just wheel hop.

Hope that helps, Jerry
 
We are running bias ply tires, and the cars sit for a few weeks or more at a time. When I first start driving mine after it has sat for a while, I get a noticeable hop from what I imagine are flat spots on the tires. But after a few miles they round out and the hop goes away.

Also have your tires and wheels spun balanced on a really good tire machine. When they did mine they found one rim slightly bent (they are '46 Mercs, so who knows what happened to them in the past 60 years) and the tires are slightly out of round. Very characteristic of bias plies, they tell me. To show how critical it is to have perfectly round tires, a few years ago I bought the proverbial "Little Old Ladies Car", an '84 Ford Crown Vic with only 50,000 on the clock. She put brand new Michelin radials on it one time, drove it home, and never drove it again until I bought it 4 years later. Those tires still had the nubs on them, but from sitting they had developed flat spots, and even after driving the car for a couple of months the car still hopped like mad, the tires never did go back into shape. So I scrapped a perfectly good set of Michelins and had to put new tires on it because I was tired of the fillings in my teeth coming out when I drove it.

As for the front brake thing, yep, any rotating mass can be out of balance. On something like a 4,000 pound Buick front rotors that are out of balance might not be a problem, but on a 2,000 pound hot rod with a straight axle the imbalance would be VERY noticeable. One of the changes we made in my Son's T was to scrap the GM front brake setup and go to much lighter Wilwoods..........made a huge difference.

Don
 
I think I will keep my front brakes ('40 Ford drums). I have had the front tires balanced (several times, off the car and a couple of times on the car).
I am running the Firestones ribbed front runners (bias-ply) but wish I could find a decent set of radials that don't look like radials. I am planning on replacing the worn-out '39 Ford shocks with modern tube type in hopes that that will help. I aslo am planning on checking the toe-in/out. When I originally set it up, I set it at 1/8" (I think) toe-in. A friend of mine told me to try adjusting that to 1/8" toe-out because the lighter car didn't have enough weight to 'push' the tires to zero.
I'll getit firgured out (hopefully), but so far, it's been a long road and I hope I can get it before I break something.
r
 
When I fisrt bought Kletus I had a DEATH SHAKE at about 55 MPH, the car would just shake like crazy. Stupid me nailed the gas and it mellowed out a little bit around 65 but was still shaking a bit.

I chased the shake for a while. I was convinced it was the front end (and the lack of shocks). I had (and still have) friction shocks. Tightened as tight as I could get, no different than if I losened them until they were just flopping around. Changed out rims and tires and that was it. I put MY rims and tires on another car and it ws fine. They were balanced on the machine and they were balanced on another car but on MY car they didn't work.

There have been five or six sets of rims and tires on my bucket now and all working fine. ALSO, I use a torque wrench to verify all of the lugnuts are equally tightend... a tip I got from Fat Pat the brakemaster.

Got Toolman to do an alignment on my bucket and it's very very nice now. Drives nice and straight, I don't need to keep both hands on the wheel to control it. Basically I keep my left thumb on the wheel and that's about it.

There are still NO SHOCKS at all on the front of my bucket. The friction shocks are just flopping around loose and not doing a dang thing except adding five pounds to my gross vehicle weight.

Can't say ALL T buckets would be fine without shocks, but mine is... and it ain't no trailer queen either. I drive it as much as possible, made the trip to the NTBA T Bucket Nats - drove from Memphis to Springfield, IL and back, make regular "around the block... 200 mile trips" in it with no suspension issues.

Sure, a set of hydraulic shocks woould probably make it a little nicer, but it works as it is and I'm lazy.

Your bucket might just need an alignment or toe in / toe out adjustment to resolve the issue.

Or try another set of rims and tires.
 
I wish I could try another set of tires and rims, but the 5.5x5 bolt pattern is a little hard to come by in something that is drivable on my T.
r
 
Check your caster. If it is over 5 degrees that may be causing the problem. Set caster at 5 degrees and toe-in at 1/8 inch and try it. You may have to tinker with toe-in / toe-out to get it right...
 

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