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Getting to the body

Rattee

Member
Finally getting to the underside of my body. I had my buddy’s dad glass it in and botched it. Now I’m thinking about these speedway body mounts …. Not sure I want to put these big a$$ holes in the 2x3 frame to me it’s a weak point anyone ever have any problems with them?
 

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On the road since 2016 using the 'well-nut' system with no problems, even after one minor 'off-road' incident.
 
I routed steel into the plywood and laminated in glass so the body mount bolts can’t pull through. I know the body is little more than a cowl, but I want it to remain attached to the chassis. I’m sure large washers would work also. Just FYI.
 
I recently installed the Speedway rubber mounts in my frame. I was surprised that it required 3/4" drill holes to accommodate them. I don't think it'll pose any threat to structural integrity. I guess you could fabricate some of your own steel mounts and weld them to the frame. This would provide another method to secure the floor down. In my case, I actually ran out of room on the drivers side of the frame due to brake/fuel lines, brake pedal, etc.
 
The webbing I used just lines the frame between it and the body and my mount bolts are situated to just mount to the frame. I was going to use rubber or urethane mounts, but it really wasn’t necessary. There are many variations available. Whatever makes sense for your build is the right choice.
 
I welded mounts to the frame and use 3" x 1/8" thick washers on top. If they pull through then I'll have bigger problems other than that. I have seen pictures of crashes where the body came loose from the frame. You have to face the fact that any crash in these cars may not turn out good, but to have the body stay with the frame is a good starting point.
 
Agree. When I was doing mine, I put steel reinforcements in front and behind the door posts, in addition to the oak that was encased in the fiberglass, built a cage that fits inside of the cowl, under and behind the dash, that connects to both front door post reinforcements and connects to the cowl that is 3/4” plywood, encased in fiberglass with a chrome plated steel plate that goes on the engine side and bolts through the plywood/glass cowl and connects to the cage/door posts. There are steel reinforcements that go between the front door post rails and the rear door posts inside of the rockers and there is steel that is laminated across the kick up angle. I also built box rockers that the steel is inside of to stiffen the body. There are flags welded to the door post reinforcements that are routed into the floor that the body mount bolts through and everything is encased in glass. My intent was to make it rigid enough that the doors and windshield are solid and the gaps remain as built because I cut both doors in it. I also wanted it to be solid enough that a mild impact wouldn’t destroy it or someone leaning on the doors or pulling on the windshield wouldn’t cause problems. I know if I crash it with any velocity it’s toast, but it is as strong as I can make it without building a cage, at least I think it is. It will also get a hoop behind the seat. The seat is bolted to the steel reinforcements on the kick up. I also added several layers of glass and fabric to the inside of the door skins and they are built solid using old growth oak laminated in glass around the perimeters. The seat, body, and seat belts are all constructed so they are one with the frame so the passenger doesn’t get cut in half in the event of the body being detached. The floor, seat, seat belts will be with the chassis. It will take a really hard impact to separate the body from the chassis. Most likely unsurvivable. I’ve seen pictures of them totally separated and shattered from low speed impacts. I did not want that to be possible. If I can remain inside, it will provide some safety, at least the initial buffer. Staying in it might be a trick. I did include lap belts. I also took the time to retain the collapse feature when I shortened the steering column. It will telescope inside of itself in the event of a direct impact. We do the best we can and roll the dice.... life happens! I was involved in a severe head on collision, so I have become cognizant of certain things that I never would have otherwise considered. I also intend to take my grandkids for rides and I would never forgive myself if something tragic happened that could have been avoided or prevented. Just my conscience showing itself, lol.
 
I decided that I wanted stand offs from the frame. As well as I’m going to use the cross member I made as my six points. I did get my firewall cut and put on today.
 

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Agree. When I was doing mine, I put steel reinforcements in front and behind the door posts, in addition to the oak that was encased in the fiberglass, built a cage that fits inside of the cowl, under and behind the dash, that connects to both front door post reinforcements and connects to the cowl that is 3/4” plywood, encased in fiberglass with a chrome plated steel plate that goes on the engine side and bolts through the plywood/glass cowl and connects to the cage/door posts. There are steel reinforcements that go between the front door post rails and the rear door posts inside of the rockers and there is steel that is laminated across the kick up angle. I also built box rockers that the steel is inside of to stiffen the body. There are flags welded to the door post reinforcements that are routed into the floor that the body mount bolts through and everything is encased in glass. My intent was to make it rigid enough that the doors and windshield are solid and the gaps remain as built because I cut both doors in it. I also wanted it to be solid enough that a mild impact wouldn’t destroy it or someone leaning on the doors or pulling on the windshield wouldn’t cause problems. I know if I crash it with any velocity it’s toast, but it is as strong as I can make it without building a cage, at least I think it is. It will also get a hoop behind the seat. The seat is bolted to the steel reinforcements on the kick up. I also added several layers of glass and fabric to the inside of the door skins and they are built solid using old growth oak laminated in glass around the perimeters. The seat, body, and seat belts are all constructed so they are one with the frame so the passenger doesn’t get cut in half in the event of the body being detached. The floor, seat, seat belts will be with the chassis. It will take a really hard impact to separate the body from the chassis. Most likely unsurvivable. I’ve seen pictures of them totally separated and shattered from low speed impacts. I did not want that to be possible. If I can remain inside, it will provide some safety, at least the initial buffer. Staying in it might be a trick. I did include lap belts. I also took the time to retain the collapse feature when I shortened the steering column. It will telescope inside of itself in the event of a direct impact. We do the best we can and roll the dice.... life happens! I was involved in a severe head on collision, so I have become cognizant of certain things that I never would have otherwise considered. I also intend to take my grandkids for rides and I would never forgive myself if something tragic happened that could have been avoided or prevented. Just my conscience showing itself, lol.
Do you have pictures it seems well thought out. I’m not that overly concerned. I just hated to weaken my frame over something so small as body mounts
 
It’s long I have 1.25 from fully inserted to resting I thought the same thing. I figured I go with it and see how it rides if it caused problems I’ll change it out .
 

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