Guy's Restoration after 10 years sitting

[Guy]

First thing i want to thank everyone on here for your help this has been in the least nerve racking when you have no information on the T Bucket owner died and has been sitting 10 + years and family has no knowledge of build. this is where i started

 

[Guy]

 

[Guy]

This is where i am now , wiring has been corrected and ran Loom on all wires, front end has been removed and all the chrome parts white power coated, The power coating was in all the holes and had a very hard time removing . fuel tank has a new fuel spout, electric fuel pump installed . Just installed new master cylinder . and have been trying to bleed the system

removed 2 duel quads changed to a single Edelbrock .

 

[Neshkoro]

Did you use high temp powder on the headers? I tried it about 10 years ago on my old headers. Looked nice but didn't last. Ended up going with chrome headers. They suck, too after a while. It's hard to keep them nice A lot of guys go with the ceramic coating. I might try that next time. Good luck.

 

[Guy]

Did you use high temp powder on the headers? I tried it about 10 years ago on my old headers. Looked nice but didn't last. Ended up going with chrome headers. They suck, too after a while. It's hard to keep them nice A lot of guys go with the ceramic coating. I might try that next time. Good luck.

no they will not do the headers thats only high temp engine paint and i dont expect it to last

 

[Guy]

I am having so much trouble getting wheel studs , summit thinks they have the correct ones sending them out but been though several pairs , problem is the hub is first and the drum is behind it so the knurl needs to be long enough to reach the hub , stud is 1/2" x 20 thread x .627 knurl long type

 

[choppedtop]

Not sure the knurls need to reach the drum. If they did changing brake shoes would really be tough. I know none of the drums on my any of my cars have the knurls in them. Wheels and lug nuts hold them in place. White looks good, hope it holds up. May have to do a touch up on the headers now and then. I had the headers on my roadster done with some sort of power coating, and it held up perfectly. Wish I could remember the name of the coating.

 

[Guy]

The way this drum and hub is set up the wheel stud goes through the drum and into the hub , hub sits on the outside of the drum

 

[Guy]

And if I try to change it so that the hub goes on first then the drum won't cover all of the break shoe , I have already tried this

 

[HenrysT]

Pics!

 

[Neshkoro]

Yeah, that sounds strange that the brake drum would go on first and then the hub would go on! Maybe there are some mixed up parts that you have there. As HenrysT said " pictures". That will help us understand.

 

[Guy]

Yeah, that sounds strange that the brake drum would go on first and then the hub would go on! Maybe there are some mixed up parts that you have there. As HenrysT said " pictures". That will help us understand.

I have the wheels back on temporarily , when i removed them again i will snap a picture , trying to get the air out of the break system and not having much luck , I did bench bleed the master but still have some air somewhere

 

[Neshkoro]

Sometimes it takes a lot of pedal pumping to remove the air from the brake system. It's usually a 2 person job.
Crack the bleeder.
Press the pedal and hold it down.
Lock the bleeder.
Let the pedal return to the top.
Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Repeat on all wheels.
Continue to monitor the Master cylinder that is stays full.
Keep checking.
What kind of a front end do you have? It's weird that the drum would go on before the hub.
Maybe it's a bunch of mismatched parts.
Take some pictures. Someone here should be able to recognize the front end assembly.

 

[choppedtop]

Could it be they are the wrong drums? Not all drums have the same depth just because they are the same brand. Have we ever determined what brand they are?

 

[Guy]

Sometimes it takes a lot of pedal pumping to remove the air from the brake system. It's usually a 2 person job.
Crack the bleeder.
Press the pedal and hold it down.
Lock the bleeder.
Let the pedal return to the top.
Repeat, repeat, repeat.
Repeat on all wheels.
Continue to monitor the Master cylinder that is stays full.
Keep checking.
What kind of a front end do you have? It's weird that the drum would go on before the hub.
Maybe it's a bunch of mismatched parts.
Take some pictures. Someone here should be able to recognize the front end assembly.

I am not getting any pressure out of the master , using a pressure pot and have solid fluid coming from bleeders but no peddle, parts store ordered me another one

 

[Guy]

No we haven't but using jack on kids boat so when I get them back I will jack her up again and get pictures, reason master didn't bleed is unit was bad installed a new master bleeding was very easy then had a connection leak so I just got a new line this morning, hope to put that on today getting a little sick of breaks but I don't want to install the radiator permanently till breaks are good one new line goes right under it from front wheel to wheel,

 

[Guy]

Please look at this hub and please comment

 

[Neshkoro]

Yeah, that doesn't look right. I never saw a setup like that before. It might exist somewhere. So, if you wanted to remove the drum you would have to remove the nut, tapered bearing and all the associated parts.
Take a photo of the spindle and the axle end. Maybe someone can recognize what it is from.

 

[choppedtop]

I don't think I have ever seen a drum behind a hub. That just looks wrong. It has almost got to be the wrong drums for the application. The holes in the hub look terribly large also. Has a brand been established? What it the bolt pattern measurements?

 

[old round fart]

I think early fords and Buick’s had those. I’ve seen them but CRS won’t let me remember.