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IFS $160!

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Steakneggs

New Member
So according to Pick-N-Pull's website, my price for an Astro front subframe with suspension and steering is $136 plus a $10 core, plus tax.
It won't be $160 once I add new bushings, brake hoses, shocks, et cetera, but it's still a grand less than Heidt's.
 
I have a complete front end and complete rear end from an XJ Jag. Been sitting outside though.
 
I'm gonna be a party pooper and say that an Astro Van front end is WAY too big and clunky for a T.
Compare a T Bucket front end like the generic one on my avatar T to an Astro or S10 etc.
It will be huge far beyond what is needed mechanically or visually.
You need to do some additional research and not grab the first thing that comes along. Using whats easily available is not always the path to success!

I HOPE you realize I'm not trying to be a dick...just offering some guidance to help you get started down a successful path!
If you look over my posts here you will see that I try to help...not hinder.
 
That will be a big bulky, nasty looking set up.

I posted in your project plan thread but I'm not sure if you saw it, check out what the Locost 7 builders are doing for IFS.

They play with S10 spindles, mustang spindles, etc. Show you how to build tubular A-arms (tubular gives a much cleaner appearance). Lots of this stuff can be adapted over with some basic pencil/paper engineering.
 
So how do you guys propose I get control arms, springs, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, steering box, idler arms, tie rods, etc., and transfer them to my fabricated frame in such a way that it preserves the GM attachment point dimensions, other than bt hacking up an Astro frame?
What I'm seeing is the same IFS used on S-10s, Monte Carlos, and Malibus, which the circle track guys love, in a unit that I can get without power tools that the salvage yards don't allow anyway.
What I have in mind is either cutting away Astro subframe until the remnant snugly fits my fabricated frame, or at least having the Astro subframe for measuring where to locate fabricated brackets.
Worst case scenario, I buy a new stick of steel and go conventional / traditional T- bucket suspension.
But hiw do you think the Mustang 2 / Pinto adaptation originally got started? Theres a helluva lot more '85-'05 Astros and '82-'04 S-10s in salvage yards now than '74-'78 Pintos and Mustang 2s.
 
I think you will eventually not be happy with a big clunky front end. The object of a t bucket is a light minimalist car that is a real attention getter. I think if you are looking for a comfortable ride you will be very disappointed. You will find with a car that weighs so much less than half the designed weight will be way to stiff.
 
If you are set on IFS there is another build book that has a real nice blueprint for front end. The book cost $100. It is a step by step to a high performance sports car. Find it at “Midlana.com”
 
Steakneggs said:
So how do you guys propose I get control arms, springs, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, steering box, idler arms, tie rods, etc., and transfer them to my fabricated frame in such a way that it preserves the GM attachment point dimensions, other than bt hacking up an Astro frame?
What I'm seeing is the same IFS used on S-10s, Monte Carlos, and Malibus, which the circle track guys love, in a unit that I can get without power tools that the salvage yards don't allow anyway.
What I have in mind is either cutting away Astro subframe until the remnant snugly fits my fabricated frame, or at least having the Astro subframe for measuring where to locate fabricated brackets.
Worst case scenario, I buy a new stick of steel and go conventional / traditional T- bucket suspension.
But hiw do you think the Mustang 2 / Pinto adaptation originally got started? Theres a helluva lot more '85-'05 Astros and '82-'04 S-10s in salvage yards now than '74-'78 Pintos and Mustang 2s.
Click to expand...


#1 you didn't say anything about just using it as an alignment tool to keep things in line while you fab new mount points for the bolt on parts only.

I still think you would be money in the bank to just buy a front end designed for a T though.
I certainly don't see it as "worst case scenario"! LOL
Mine drove like a slot car and was always driven to events, never trailered.
In fact...my friend and I drove it twice on inter-provincial trips to the Atlantic Nationals car show...with a trailer in tow for our stuff.
95% of those trips were on highways at 70 mph.
I've built several cars over the years and what you are planning is a lot simpler on paper than out in the garage.

M2 swap is pretty easy to use with the stock setup because the full crossmember is straight forward to cut out of the unitbody and easy to mount to frame tubing. S10, Astro etc not so much.

"The Yeti" is dead on with suggesting you check out how the "Locost" guys do their front ends. Very simple and basic but the cars handle really well and they are basicly savages out on the track...giving Porsche and the like nightmares! It's all simple measurements and wouldn't be hard to adapt the theory to T bucket usage.
 
If you are concerned with ride quality, length of wheel base has something to do with it as well.
 
Steakneggs said:
So how do you guys propose I get control arms, springs, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, steering box, idler arms, tie rods, etc., and transfer them to my fabricated frame in such a way that it preserves the GM attachment point dimensions, other than bt hacking up an Astro frame?
What I'm seeing is the same IFS used on S-10s, Monte Carlos, and Malibus, which the circle track guys love, in a unit that I can get without power tools that the salvage yards don't allow anyway.
What I have in mind is either cutting away Astro subframe until the remnant snugly fits my fabricated frame, or at least having the Astro subframe for measuring where to locate fabricated brackets.
Worst case scenario, I buy a new stick of steel and go conventional / traditional T- bucket suspension.
But hiw do you think the Mustang 2 / Pinto adaptation originally got started? Theres a helluva lot more '85-'05 Astros and '82-'04 S-10s in salvage yards now than '74-'78 Pintos and Mustang 2s.
Click to expand...
Try speedway motors and look up G-Comp Universal Front Suspension kit. It’s pricey @ $2000 but you might find something else to your liking.
 
G'Day Guys, I have been on sites on the net with the dimensions of the cross member and pivot point diagrams for the Mustang II suspension. Plenty of places where the components (Tubular A arms etc) are easily obtainable as well.
Regards,
 
This idea has 2 flaws I just learned. One, the Astro track width is 10.6" beyond the S10, and two, the Astro steering box angle would be ugly at best. I know a place that should be willing to torch the IFS out of an S10 for me.
 
Steakneggs said:
This idea has 2 flaws I just learned. One, the Astro track width is 10.6" beyond the S10, and two, the Astro steering box angle would be ugly at best. I know a place that should be willing to torch the IFS out of an S10 for me.
Click to expand...



The expense and headaches with that install just defeats the thought of a T-Bucket to me. I have seen working front ends like you want and they work, but the ride will always be rough as it is a short car that will always bounce when you hit a bump or pot hole in the road..

A traditional setup or even cross steer with a Vega box would work and look better. Even the coil springs with the F1 truck axle is different but works. It's your money. JMTCW
 
To me, I like tradition. Straight axle, leaf spring. Some day I’d like to experiment with an independent front suspension.
Tubular A Frame. Coil springs, etc.
and the tear end with coil overs.
There are some interesting designs some folks on this site have.
Maybe in my next life!
 
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