Is this gonna work.....or not

[Coupefreak]

I was pretty proud of myself, but then somebody told me it won't work.

so.......I figured I'd ask the "Pros"..........

let me know what y'all think........go......no go...........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=230223128884&rd=1

my buddy tells me this is NOT a '67 box......but in fact....a 65 / 66 box.

so......was it a good deal.....or did I screw up.......again
is it usable, or did I screw myself

Vance

 

[flatheadgary]

all those boxs are basiclly the same size and mount the same. i used a comet box of that time period and when it got a little worn out i changed to a mustang and the only difference was the size of the pitman arm hole. i couldn't use the comet arm so i just made a new arm from the comet one like the old one.(bends and such)

 

[donsrods]

This one taxes my memory a little, but I think the major difference is that the later boxes used a rag joint at the bottom as opposed to a solid shaft all the way up. I could be wrong, but I think you will be fine.

Don

 

[flatheadgary]

don, i believe you are right about that. both of mine obviously have the rag joint.

 

[Youngster]

Sounds like it's a go Vance. Speedway sells a mounting plate for the Mustang box. If it's possible mount your hair pin as close as you can to the box mount on the frame.

Ron

 

[Coupefreak]

Sounds like it's a go Vance. Speedway sells a mounting plate for the Mustang box. If it's possible mount your hair pin as close as you can to the box mount on the frame.

Ron

My buddies main concern is the one piece steering shaft.
I have absolutely zero experience building a steering system like this.
is that shaft removeable??
can it be cut down if necessary??
can it be mounted like a regular car steering shaft, or will it have to come straight up, like a traditional T??

sorry, didn't mean to sound like a sugared up 5 year old

Vance

 

[donsrods]

Usually these have to be mounted in front of the firewall so that the pitman arm has room to come up. The shaft comes out on the bottom of the frame rail when using this box.

Yep, you can cut and reweld the steering column shaft to whatever length you need. What I do is bevel the two cut parts so you get a good bead, then I insert a solid piece of round steel about 6 inches or so long into the hollow part of the shaft so it is a tight fit. Once the two halfs are butted up against each other I fully weld the beveled ends together.

Then I grind down the weld smooth and slide a piece of round tubing that has an ID the same as the OD of the shaft over the shaft and center it half way on both sides of the previous weld. Now I weld this new piece of tubing all around so it forms a collar over the entire cut portion. My '27 Ford is done this way, and I am also going to do my '39 Dodge exactly the same.

Here is a little tip. Any time you want to hold two pieces of round stock straight for welding, lay them into the veed portion of a piece of angle iron. You can clamp it down and the angle iron aligns it for you perfectly straight.

Don

 

[RPM]

yep it will work just fine

Here are a couple of shots of a Mustang box in a T

 

[Coupefreak]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

Ron, I appreciate the pictures, visual reinforcement
I have a set of headers just like those pictures, so clearance should not be an issue
I was hoping I could use that box, the last thing I need is more "spare parts"

Vance

 

[RPM]

You will probably have to fab a pitman arm like the one in the pic.

 

[Coupefreak]

You will probably have to fab a pitman arm like the one in the pic.

1/4" flat plate steel strong enough??

Vance

 

[RPM]

I would do 3/8 just to be safe.

 

[flatheadgary]

hey coupefreak, here is how i do it. it is a corvair, but the principle is the same. just make sure you have the arm in the right position when it is all done!! pointing up or done according to the way the box rotates. it is real easy too. just put the splined part on the box and find the center by turning the sector shaft left to right and split the difference. then put the new arm over it and get it where you want it and tack it on, then take it off and finish weld. all this is doable if the box is already mounted though!! once it is all cooled down, i heat it up and bend it to clear and such. sorry for the crude drawing, but it was a last minute thing after i got the email.

 

[Coupefreak]

Thanks guys, I apprreciate all the help and info.
my nephew-in-law is the shop foreman at a local steel shop, I may hafta give him a call

I'm pretty sure he owes Uncle Vance a favor or 3:lol:

Vance

 

[Baby Huey]

Here's My Ford Box install....

Here's a couple pictures of my crude set up. The Box is a Manual Steer "early" (66 ?) Mustang. The Pitman I made from 1/2" steel (because I had a piece that fit) I'll drill a couple holes in it later. I cut the splines out of the old dog leg Ford Pitman. The top hole and the Drag Link run level to the front steering arm. The steering shaft runs about 55* angle thru the fire wall. The mount is a piece of 2X2X1/4"..... "BH"

Here is a gusset I'll weld on to support the mount flange.

 

[Youngster]

Re: Here's My Ford Box install....

flatheadgary...that's a great lookin' chassis. Is it something you're working on now? That's a Mopar front axle, right? What are the brakes on it?

Ron

 

[flatheadgary]

yea ron, it's a T and the axle is a '35 dodge, brakes are stock. i have just about finished it. i need to sell it though. it has all the hard work done. it needs a motor and trans, windsheild, wiring, brake lines and interior. i want $5000. OBO for it and no takers.:sad::sad::sad: here are a couple pic's.

 

[Coupefreak]

Thanks for the pix BH!!
that gives me a little better idea.

still working on getting it to roller status.

Vance