johns bucket list

[RPM]

It is not uncommon to have grind the brackets and the spindles

 

[john dioli]

I have already tried all rotations of the bracket the top king pin boss is bigger than the bottom so I would have to modify it but they make the correct kit so why not just get the right one I can probably grind it and make it work but then what do i do about steering arms they wont bolt up I still need to get arms also Ill have to call speedway and see about returning the kit and getting the correct one that steering arms bolt up to thanks for the ideas everyone
john

 

[bobs66440]

Agreed. If it's not right I would just get the correct one.

 

[fordstu]

Agreed. Do it right the first time. Lesson learnt from the first rod I built years ago. It will do attitude isn't good enough. Plus if your not happy it won't do.

 

[john dioli]

Well Ron to the rescue once again, Just grind the caliper a bit and turn the bracket no problem. Boy took about a minute to do and bingo.
thanks again MR POPE
and there you have it guys a 1935 dodge axle with early ford spindles and 70's chevy disc brakes
john
before bracket to low and not possible for brake hose

a bit of grinding Im also going to cut off the ears and turn the brake hose

 

[choppinczech]

Nice work.

 

[bobs66440]

Looks graet. Simple solutions are a wonderful thing!

 

[john dioli]

well my motor isnt done yet so a buddy gave me a real mock up block and I was able to get work done, the frame is at ride height and intake set at 0 deg, the tail shaft is at 3 deg and all is level now to do brake master and steering mount. Please if anyone sees anything that might be a issue please let me know.
thanks John
a smear of jb weld ill be good


still need to set pinion angle on rear end

dug through some of my scrap and did my total free gas tank and mount still have to cut all thread (remember rat rodish nothing fancy)

 

[EX JUNK]

"Git 'er dun."

Jim

 

[john dioli]

Ok its a hot rod so no directions I believe this is correct if memory serves me from talking to Ron a long time ago heres the steering mount
Let me know what you think
John

 

[butch27]

I would somehow try to get that steering box away from the headers. The heat can boil out the grease. It used to happen years ago on OLD Sprint cars.

 

[Mike J]

Will you have clearance if you use an H.E.I. distributor? You might have to move engine forward an inch for clearance also getting more clearance from steering box. I.M.O.

 

[john dioli]

Mike its set up for a standard distributor im not a big hei guy
yes looking at it I will lower the box some.
now to work on the master mount for the brakes

 

[fluidfloyd]

Well Ron to the rescue once again, Just grind the caliper a bit and turn the bracket no problem. Boy took about a minute to do and bingo.
thanks again MR POPE
and there you have it guys a 1935 dodge axle with early ford spindles and 70's chevy disc brakes
john
before bracket to low and not possible for brake hose

a bit of grinding Im also going to cut off the ears and turn the brake hose

John,

How do those Ford spindles do on a Mopar front axle as to camber alignment? Not building one but I am curious.

George

 

[john dioli]

Hi George the front tire look pretty close but will have my alignment shop do there magic to get it perfect

 

[fluidfloyd]

That it does. I just didn't have any idea what angle that axle pin hole was bored at but it looks pretty good to me. I do know where another one of those axles with spindles is and he would probably like to know that information to. Thanks for responding.
George

 

[john dioli]

I may be over thinking about nothing but i would like your opinions on my tranny mount angle and driveshaft angle
the tail shaft is 3 deg and pinion is 3 deg with the shaft itself at 13 deg the rear end is higher than the tranny.
Now i see that most all tranny crossmembers are flat across mine is at an angle not sure if its the way its designed or what just want to make sure its right
john

 

[RPM]

I would move that trans mount to the top of the frame. That angle on the U joints won't last long. Then you might have to raise the engine mounts also.

 

[fluidfloyd]

John,

Not being able to see the engine bay I don't know if you're already committed to that tail shaft angle. That drive shaft looks to be about 18" long so it sees a bigger angle increase as the rear end goes up. I tend to think your concern is well founded. I would have preferred to set the engine in level with the tail shaft/crankshaft and the rear pinion shaft level also. I'm not sure what those u joints like as a maximum angle but being as the drive train is coupled up pretty close you might get some vibrations. I know everyone wants to keep the floor as flat as possible but I personally would either lower the front of the engine or raise the tail of it. I would then just lightly tack weld the suspension brackets. Once I had the car to running weight I would check the angles of both the engine and rear pinion and adjust accordingly. I know that's a lot of trouble but slinging a drive shaft out is to! One thing I think is mandatory in cars like these and that is drive shaft safety loops. Simple and cheap safety devise that you could well appreciate at a later date. Hope this doesn't upset your plans but I have a feeling you were already thinking the worst. I would surely welcome any and all opinions on your drive line. Good Luck.

George

 

[old round fart]

If you raise the trans mount and the engine mount to re-level the carb you gain clearance on the steering box and pan to ground that probably needs doing too!