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johns bucket list

ok the frame is at ride height with that the carb base is level so what I should do is raise the tranny mount level with top of frame and the remake the motor mount higher to bring carb base back to level? correct


 
ok the frame is at ride height with that the carb base is level so what I should do is raise the tranny mount level with top of frame and the remake the motor mount higher to bring carb base back to level? correct




John,

You said the frame was at ride height. Does that take into consideration of the rear spring being compressed at street weight? When you have the frame at what you want to ride at and you may well be there now then I would level the engine till the transmission shaft is parallel with the ground. Then I would rotate the the rear housing until the pinion shaft is also parallel with the ground and the trans shaft. I would also take a visual from the side and see how high or low they are with each other. As long as it's not off the chart you should be in good shape. The old rule of thumb of "If it looks wrong it probably is" is a pretty good indication of where you are. Don't worry about the manifold/carburetor being level as I'm sure you will go up and down a few grades. I live in the Ozark Mountains and everything is up or down hill. I personally like to set the engine down as low as possible just so you can get a low drive shaft location. Everything is a compromise so you just try to make the best choices you can. Hope this gives you some help. If not then keep asking till you hear what you like. Lot's of opinions and advise here so fire away.

George
 
well I moved the tranny member level to top of frame and left the motor alone set the rear pinion angle tail shaft and pinion are at 2 deg and the shaft moved to about 4 deg. not going to worry about intake which is about 4 deg instead of 0 thanks everyone ill post a picture tomorrow
john
 
Hi everyone its been about 7 months and other projects got in the way.My son Jake sold the mustang we built and bought a 56 chevy wagon and we've been getting that road worthy, I will find a picture. Then I decided to update my blue 55 f100 with different wheels and narrow the rear and add tubs. I am eager to getting on the t again soon prolly in May after I finish the 55 just wanted to keep in touch
John


 
Hi everyone its been about 7 months and other projects got in the way.My son Jake sold the mustang we built and bought a 56 chevy wagon and we've been getting that road worthy, I will find a picture. Then I decided to update my blue 55 f100 with different wheels and narrow the rear and add tubs. I am eager to getting on the t again soon prolly in May after I finish the 55 just wanted to keep in touch
John



Nice truck--- but this is a T-BUCKET forum.
 
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Hi everyone I have a friend from down under up in town for 3 months who happens to do interiors,so he has put a fire under my butt so that he can do my seat and panels so I need to get the floor and firewall wood stringers all in so he can build the seat for me. Heres some updates
I sanded the interior

cardboard cut out


another big thanks to ron pope for more great parts steering arms


when I got the car from the original owner I said I would use as many of the original parts as I could thus the hinged battery box that flops down for easy access

I think the radiator cover will be at the right height to the cowl
 
well the car is just about done heres some pictures its just a rat rod but fun the floor and firewall wood will get covered with old rusty license plates in a collage pattern



head light mount aka craftsman 7/8

this is the msd ignition box inside

the chain is to activate the horn


this is the only switch the headlights/taillights come on with ignition and the other is turn signal

the shifter
 

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