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Low Slung T

Fuel system is about 90% done. Just need to get some separators to replace the zip ties, blow the lines out of any debris and make those brackets holding the hose to the tranny a bit nicer.
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Been a little slow on progress because of the holidays but I did get my fuel lines all buttoned up. Also started on my brake lines which leads me to a question. Since the master is frame mounted, I’m thinking I don’t need the coils in my brake lines. What are all you’re thoughts?
 
Since the master is frame mounted, I’m thinking I don’t need the coils in my brake lines. What are all you’re thoughts?

With the frame mounted MC you may not need a bunch of coils, but it sure is nice to have a little give if the unexpected happens & you need to remove the master. Just sayin' . . . :rolleyes:
 
Like Spanky says .. the coils are only there for repair work just in case you need some extra line if you screw up the flare 5 times.
I see no point in them at all.
If that kind of thing happens I would run a new line.
 
I have the brake valves mounted and the light switch sensor. Most of my lines are pre-bent. Just waiting on my new flare tool and a couple more pieces. I think I’ll leave the coils out as I don’t have much room and if I mess the lines up..they are pretty short pieces to replace.
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Got tire of the body always being in my way and not being able to move it around myself. Sacrificed a harbor freight cart to make a bigger sized cart for my body. Now I can roll it around as I please when I have it off the frame.
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Brake lines all done and only had to remake one. At least for now. Hopefully none of them leak. The one I had to remake, I cut short. At least I had fun when I was cutting it short. When I was making this one, my 8 year old was helping me out and asking a million and one questions. Maybe why I cut it short. I did however, use that line on the rear. So no waste to speak of.

Still waiting on a bracket to come in for the front RPV and my banjo bolts for the front calipers. My kit, for some reason, didn’t come with the bolts. Also, may eventually have to get longer hoses for the front. Maybe like an inch or two longer. We will see on that.

Fingers crossed for no leaks once I add fluid!

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Looking good, nice work!

What did you use to make your coils at the master cylinder?
 
Indycars - I did them by hand. lol
I used a piece of tubing that I had under my bench. I believe it was a piece from my steering column that was left over from shortening it. Just wrapped the brake tubing around it a few times after I figure out were the coils needed to start.
 
Thinking I might move on to seat belts next. This should prove to be an interesting project with the seat insert I have. Deciding where to cut the slots in the seat tub for the belts to go through. Figuring out where the mounting points should be on the floor. Calculating how long the belts need to be on each side so they are long enough for me, bigger or smaller people than me(passenger side only haha), and so that the buckle sits on a nice spot. Should be interesting enough to help me procrastinate from getting into the wiring!
 
ORF - I definitely see what your saying. Most of the reading I’ve done said not to mount the belts to the frame though. I have one trap door in my insert. Was thinking about making one on the other side.
Or just bolting the belts in, putting the insert in, then using string to pull them through the slots.
 
Don’t know why people are afraid to bolt seatbelts to the frame. My thought is the chance of chaffing belt coming through a hole. Most seatbelt ends use a clip through an eye bolt. Being able to remove belt may be a good thing.
 
If you get in a wreck and the car body somehow comes loose from the frame with the seat belts bolted to the frame, whatever the seat belts are wrapped around will be the only thing keeping the car body from skating down the street. If it happens to be your waist that the belt is wrapped around it could be painful. Those nice grade 8 bolts holding the body will probably not break, but they can pull through the plywood floor or the resin (not the fiberglass) that is holding the floor into the body could fail. There are pictures somewhere around here of a T-bucket body on one side of the street and the frame on the other. On the other side of the coin, if the belts were fastened to the car body the driver or passenger would simply go with it as it traveled down the road. That's the theory anyway, your mileage may vary.
 
Thanks 409T. I was just going to type basically that out. You saved me the work.
It seems to make sense.
I’ll be able to remove the belts if needed. Just need to get my hands onto the void area under the seat insert.
 

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