Low Slung T

[Indycars]

There is no doubt in my mind, that trans needs to be rebuilt before you install it. I rebuilt
my 200-4R OD trans, it was my first trans and it came out great. You have to be slow, well
organized and methodical. I bought books and a video to watch, which was very helpful.


.

 

[dwsatt21]

Monster Transmissions has some really good videos for tear down and rebuild. I’m positive I could do it. Just concerned that I won’t be sure what to look for on the hard parts for what is bad and needs replaced. One the other hand, I don’t trust 99% of the shops around here.

 

[Indycars]

You're right, no doubt you can do it. It kinda depends on how much time you want to spend on the tranny.

Buy the ATSG guide and label everything as it comes apart with lot's of pics. Use the ATSG guide ID numbers for labeling.

Assuming you have the TH350.
ATSG 350C Mini CD



.

 

[Gerry]

Don't forget the valve body and remember it may NOT be standard. We have run into many VBs in rods and race cars that have had mods such as shift kits etc. The trouble is that with no record of which one or what was done its a crap shoot when you take them apart if you are no versed in how to disassemble VBs.

There is a strict sequence so that check balls/valve, springs and other small parts remain in their original locations. Sep plates may have also been modifiedby enlargement of specific holes and even blocking off of others.

Of course if your trans is known to be standard then forget everything above and at least the pics in the ATSG/Vids will be correct.

Just trying to help, been doing VB for a fair few years and using the Hyda-Test to check em out.

G

 

[dwsatt21]

I decided to take it to a shop. Getting back to work the first of next and decided I have a million other things to do so I can get it on the road. Feeling a little like I should have done it myself but at least I’ll know(in a perfect world) that it’s right.

 

[choppinczech]

I could never do that. My brain is way too simple to reassemble all those parts.

I bet my Grandson could. He puts together those advanced Lego kits with 600 parts.

 

[dwsatt21]

Got the bed all buttoned up tonight with the wiring, lights, license plate and fuel pump and filters. It’ll have to come off when I put the body on but everything unplugs and it comes off as 1 piece
Plus a quick look at where my chassis sits at the moment. Waiting for my transmission to be done so that I can get that and the engine mounted.
Getting close, but I go back to work next Tuesday, so yay!! but it’s going to slow me down a bit.

 

[dwsatt21]

Transmission was finished today. So of course I had to get it and my engine installed. My eldest came out to help. Good thing because I definitely needed his muscles to man handle the transmission.
The torque converter was a bit far from the flex plate. 0.2855 inches away to be exact. The manufacturer says 1/8” min and 3/16” max and to shim it of its more. I put about 0.14” worth of shim in it. Not sure how I feel about it.
Also, the new dipstick tube is looking good. It’s supposed to bolt to the bell housing bolt to the left of it in the picture. That’s not going to work for me. It runs into my steam port line then, puts it more inboard than I want and will probably cause some issues with where my fuel lines go. I’m going to get the fuel lines on and the engine wiring harness and relook at it. Thinking I may move the mounting tab so it bolts to the head.
Also just realized I need to run a vacuum line to my transmission. Will do that after I have everything else that I already have routes in place. I’ll probably use hard line with just some rubber ends.

 

[Island Girl]

Transmission was finished today. So of course I had to get it and my engine installed. My eldest came out to help. Good thing because I definitely needed his muscles to man handle the transmission.
The torque converter was a bit far from the flex plate. 0.2855 inches away to be exact. The manufacturer says 1/8” min and 3/16” max and to shim it of its more. I put about 0.14” worth of shim in it. Not sure how I feel about it.
Also, the new dipstick tube is looking good. It’s supposed to bolt to the bell housing bolt to the left of it in the picture. That’s not going to work for me. It runs into my steam port line then, puts it more inboard than I want and will probably cause some issues with where my fuel lines go. I’m going to get the fuel lines on and the engine wiring harness and relook at it. Thinking I may move the mounting tab so it bolts to the head.
Also just realized I need to run a vacuum line to my transmission. Will do that after I have everything else that I already have routes in place. I’ll probably use hard line with just some rubber ends.
View attachment 19690 View attachment 19691 View attachment 19692 View attachment 19693

You might want to look at a flexible stainless steel braided trans fill from Lokar . . . . you can get a block/bell housing or firewall mount.

Firewall mount might do the trick for ya'.

 

[dwsatt21]

Island Girl. I can make this one work. Plus it’s an excuse to get some TIG practice.

 

[choppinczech]

Which converter did you go with?

Any mods to the transmission?

 

[dwsatt21]

2500. Just a few little things in the transmission. Not sure what all it’s called. I had a transmission shop do it. Should be good to about 500-600 he says.

 

[Gerry]

I did a mod to my 350 to do away with the filler tube as I did not want it on the firewall or poking up at the back of the block. Drilled the case and fitted a side bung for level and filling just like the more modern transmission. Bit late now for you as yours has been rebuilt. Pity cause thats a good time do do this mod if you have the machines to make the adapter etc.

You can just make out the 3 bolts and plug above the sump line in this picture of the finished trans

 

[choppinczech]

Gerry, you fill it to the bottom of the hole?

And a good sealant on the bung?

Did you have to face the inside of the case flat?

 

[Gerry]

Yep fill till it runs out... let it drip and put the bung in. Almost all transmission fill to a level just above the sump line with the engine running and the car in park.

I did use 'sealant' (not silicon) on the inside face and the 3 bolts that hold the 'bung' in place.

I also removed th kickdown from the trans as with a light car as a T is, it doesn't really need it. 450BHP and you need kickdown. i dont think so.

Yep the 350 does increase the pressure at the end throw of the KD but with a T unless you want to do 100K of mileage its become insignificant.

So here the blanking plug for the KD cable

 

[dwsatt21]

I’ve been pretty quiet the last few weeks but I have been making some progress between working.
It’s all wired up, fuel lines plumbed and almost ready to go. My to do list before firing it up includes, tuning the computer, radiator hoses and overflow, reinstalling my fuel pedal(had to make some changes to it as I realized I never made provisions for the cable to actually hook up to it), finish painting then installing the steering column and putting the battery in it.
The to do list before driving it includes all the above, getting a windshield in it, putting the seatbelts and seat tub in it, adjusting the suspension(the rear is sitting higher than planned at the moment but I need to get the tape out to see what’s going on and maybe some odds and ends. Oh and cleaning up this filthy garage!!!
)

 

[Spanky]

Way to go! Looking good. You're almost there, and I know the anticipation is max. Thanks for bringing us up to date, and keep the pics coming.

 

[fletcherson]

Looks good! Nice neat work. OCD like me? Lol.

 

[dwsatt21]

The windshield company is asking if I want polycarbonate or glass. Any thoughts?

 

[Spanky]

My personal opinion . . . go with automotive safety glass.