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My First T-Bucket Build

cmcdanl

Member
Hey guys, I'm new to the site so I figured I would share what I'm working on. (I apologize in advance for the long post!) I'm building a T-Bucket from the ground up. Since it's my first build, I'm on a low budget of course. Because of the low budget I'm having to fabricate every bracket for the car, down to the shackles. It's a lot of work but I'm loving the experience and learning a lot as I go. I plan to do the entire build myself, including the paint, so be ready for a lot of questions from me! So far I've got the frame built, most of the suspension mounts welded on the frame, the front axle is finished. I fabricated and welded the batwings on the front along with the spring perches. I went out of the budget to order a disk brake kit for the front axle because I want good stopping power. Gotta be safe. The front spring is a 27" trailer leaf spring I picked up brand new for $30. The rear spring is the original spring from the front axle. I took it down to 5 leafs. There will also be two motorcycle shocks on the rear to assist the leaf spring. I haven't welded on the rear spring perches yet because I'm struggling with how high the back end sits up. It came out higher than I expected, so any advice on that would be appreciated. I would prefer not to cut the frame up to make a taller kick up. But it's my first build so I'm trying to keep it relatively simple. If it has to stay up as high as it is then so be it. I started with a "donor car". A 1977 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser. I removed the sb 350 and th350 and cleaned it up and painted it. I also am using the rear axle out of it. I don't know much about the different widths of rear axles but I assume mine is a little wider than the usual axle since it's from a full size car. But I plan on buying some different wheels at the end anyways so I plan on just getting the proper offset to make up for the wider axle. I also yanked a few smaller items from the car like the master cylinder, seat belts, speedo cable, throttle cable, etc... Please let me know what you guys think. I know you wont hesitate to tell me if something isn't safe or doesn't look right, it won't hurt my feelings. I don't mind a little constructive criticism. I feel like a have a pretty good understanding of how most everything works and I trust my welds. Sorry for the Novel! Here are a few pictures.
 

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You asked .... shorten your front shackles, it appears you need more tension on the front spring . cut the spring -over mounts off the rearend & fab either spring behind or ahead mounts , that will lower it.. keep on !!
dave
 
You asked .... shorten your front shackles, it appears you need more tension on the front spring . cut the spring -over mounts off the rearend & fab either spring behind or ahead mounts , that will lower it.. keep on !!
dave

Thanks Dave! I thought of that but haven't seen a good example of it. If I did a spring behind or ahead, what do you think would be the best way to mount the spring to the frame? I'm thinking for a spring ahead set up I would add another cross member in front of the exiting rear cross member that has the bottom section cut out and the spring mounts underneath. But do you think that would look to bulky and out of place? Also, do you have an example of what the spring ahead perches would look like? I'm building this from instructions out of a book I bought that has drawings for all of the mounts, and I haven't strayed too far away from these directions yet. Not afraid to as long as I get some good advice and have a good understanding of it first.

As far as the calipers go, I'm using the original spindles and they aren't shaped in a perfect circle. Since I turned the axle around to have the tie rod in front, that was the only way the calipers would go on with out having to grind some material off of the spindles. I decided to leave it like that for now and if I have problems running the brake hoses when it comes time then I will break out the grinder. Thanks again for the advice Dave!
 
Mounts made for spring ahead would be similar to your front spring , an extra c-channel crossmember ahead would probably be covered by your tank/pickup bed/turtle deck ,so I doubt it would look out of place...... can you modify the caliper mount instead of the spindle?? On spring mounts you usually want the shackles nearly horizantal w/no weight on the spring , in some cases you even have to spread the spring to install it ... this tension is what keeps the axle centered.
dave
 
I would think about welding all the way around the bosses on the bat wings too. Keep at it, you are getting the idea great. John
 
Post a closeup of the caliper bracket/spindle , if you like , maybe someone can help ! Believe me , I built most everything on my car between 17-13 yrs. ago , didn't have a computer , so having help was ......NOT.. wish I'd had this place !!
dave
 
After sitting in my garage staring at the rear of the car for a couple hours, I decided to switch it up again and do a spring behind. There just wasn't enough room for a spring ahead. Plus I think it looks better to have the spring out back. Anyways I drew up a design of how I would lay it out. I don't want to replace the rear crossmember so I thought a different kind of spring perch could be mounted directly underneath it. Take a look at the drawing and let me know what you think (Sorry for the quick ms paint job). Does anyone see a problem with how it's laid out?
 
Got a little progress done over the weekend. I got the previous rear spring perch cut off, fabricated a new one and tacked it in place. Also made some axle spring mounts and welded those onto the rear axle and bolted everything in place. Jack stands are under the spring mounts so that the weight of the car can sit on the spring. The last picture is the new ride height. Much lower and better stance I think. Next in line are some batwings, radius rods and then the coil overs. Here are a few pictures.
 

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I'd reccomend a gusset parrallel w/ the axle to beef up your mounts , there's a lot of lateral pressure w/the shackle that far from the housing .
dave
 

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