nuts on friction shock

[iajjpop]

On my t bucket, I have a vega box with a drag link to the passenger side wheel, then a tie rod in front of the axle to the wheel on drivers side wheel. I also have friction shocks. My problem is keeping the nut for adjesting the shock torqued to 60 ft lbs. It keeps comming loose,I have double nutted & put on locking nuts with a nylon lock [still comes loose]I have a flat washer under the nut. thank you..........

 

[Rick]

On my t bucket, I have a vega box with a drag link to the passenger side wheel, then a tie rod in front of the axle to the wheel on drivers side wheel. I also have friction shocks. My problem is keeping the nut for adjesting the shock torqued to 60 ft lbs. It keeps comming loose,I have double nutted & put on locking nuts with a nylon lock [still comes loose]I have a flat washer under the nut. thank you..........

Never could keep mine tight either then i'd have uummm said problem:lol:I went to the hyd shocks so i'd get a better ride and didnt have to worry about that damn nut.

 

[Track-T]

Might try a cotter pin or roll pin to keep the nut tight.

 

[Rick]

There is no hole as you have to keep adjusting it.

 

[EX JUNK]

Are you using a bolt or a stud. If you are using a welded stud the nut will always come loose unless you pin it. The movement of the arm will always work on the nut. I have mine installed with bolts and they remain tight with only a single Nyloc nut.

 

[Track-T]

Make a Hole....

 

[Rick]

Make a Hole....

Think of what you said.Make a hole hmm now i have to adjust it with a torque wrench.Oh i know make another hole right?

 

[Youngster]

One hole with a castle nut should do it.

Ron

 

[Rick]

Yep that should work fine.Or hyd shocks:rofl:

 

[Track-T]

Sorry my post was so simple sounding,I thought that someone who could build a car could figure out what was needed to make it work.

 

[GT63]

Try some RED loctite on the stud threads.

 

[iajjpop]

I have the stud type shock,I got 2 castle nuts drilled 2 holes & put cotter pins in. should work O. K. Thanks for your coments....

 

[donsrods]

As much as I agree hydraulics are better, sometimes space limitations or design of the car prohibit them..........we have that same situation on my Kid's T.

Some of the guys who posted to this thread gave you the straight scoop. If it is a bolt that passes through the frame rail, a bolt and a nylock nut are fine. However, that will not work with a welded in stud as the movement of the shock will keep loosening up the nut.

Don't get hung up on that 60 lb figure, get close, and use a castle nut and cotter pin as suggested. Yes, you will have to drill a hole in each side, no big deal........after all, we build entire cars, so a couple of 1/8 inch holes shouldn't be a problem.

That is the permanent fix............period. You will still have to occasionally adjust tension again to compensate for wear, but nowhere near as often as now. I know you were just looking for an answer, not a lecture.

Don

Oh, you were posting as I was typing. Glad you got it figured out.

 

[Duke]

Hey, I just had a brain storm, how about a bearing between the nut and the shock plate.