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Paint Ideas

ChrisK

Member
Looking for paint idea's. How many of you guys painted your own cars? My co-worker just painted his motorcycle(goldwing) with the dupli-color laquer they sell at the parts stores. Its already reduced just pour and paint. The problem is that its laquer. I was looking into an automotive paint but these are now water based. I would like to use a color that is readily available like a factory paint for touchup later on if needed. Any Ideas?
 
I've been painting my own cars in my backyard for many years,starting back in 1958,but still thats only one every few years. Lots changes in types of paints over that time an tryed some of them. I go back to high gloss enamel most offten ,becz its one step an I can match it if needed. I now use SW hardner in it,but still let it dry two months before buffing out.
 
I haven'tt used it myself but i've heard pretty good reviews of Summit racings' paint system , do some research 'cause I think you'd want to use thier systemfrom start to finish [as w/anything else] I've always used Dupont stuff [local supplier is a friend from the old days]
dave
 
I used to own a body shop, and my dad did before me. In my opinion, don't waste your money on the store bought premixed stuff. Go to an automotive paint store such as DuPont, Sherwin Williams, etc, or there are some online sites that sell quality chemicals if you know what you want. Single stage eurothane or acrylic enamel are very good and simpler than base clear systems. Single stage eurothane is likely the simplest and most forgiving of the two. Unless you want to do a lot of sanding between coats and apply several coats, leave the lacquer alone. Be sure to get the correct reducer for the shop conditions and temperature and humidity. Make sure that you have the proper spray equipment or you will be wasting a lot of time and money. When I say proper, I mean enough clean, dry air, and the correct gun with correct fluid tip, etc...do not forget quality resperator, you only get one set of lungs. Most life long body and paint guys I know have died from heart and lung issues. Also do your homework and use the correct primer and sealers, and make sure the surface prep is right. A good pain job is made or broken by prep work or the lack thereof.
 
I'll add this , if you've not done paint prep &/or you haven't painted successfully before , you'd probably be better off taking your parts to a body shop , I know it will cost more , but the shop has acces/eperience to turn out a great finished product, learning on your own can be frustrating & expensive , materials ain't cheap anymore !!
dave
 
Additionally, depending on the desired outcome and budget, there are some generic equipment enamels available from tractor type stores, etc that can work. I have had good results with it, just use a lot of hardener to prevent it from fading and retain the shine. Again, decent spray equipment wil determine the result. With high solids such as enamel and eurothane, you want a good tack coat, let it cure till very sticky, then two medium wet coats, practice on something first if you have no experience. It will save some frustration.
 
One more thing that can't be overstated , SAFETY, no airborne paint product is O.K. to breath..products that use hardeners/gloss enhancers , whatever they're called can KILL you , many have isocyanate in them & can actually be absorbed through your skin , let alone your lungs , proper safety equip. includes a spray booth , proper "suit" & gloves along w/a fresh air breathing system.. I've lost 2 good friends to body shop related illness , so please be aware of what you're handling & how you handle it !!!
dave
 
I'm all for the safety stuff. As a welder I see these guys on TV hod rod shows welding with no gloves. Intense arc-light will give you skin cancer. Even If I just tack stuff I put on the gear.
 
I can personally attest to the paint that Summit sells. I've used it on three cars with VERY good results. One thing for sure, you can't beat the selection or the price along with the quality. IMHO

Jim
 
What type of paint from summit did you use? I've been checking out the paint in my free time today. Apparently the rustoleum is popular amongst the Model A guys looking for an authentic single stage like Henry used to use.
 
What type of paint from summit did you use? I've been checking out the paint in my free time today. Apparently the rustoleum is popular amongst the Model A guys looking for an authentic single stage like Henry used to use.

I used Summit's automotive paint. It is a urethane that is easy to use and gives great results. Check out their site for colors and pricing. I would highly suggest that you use their primers also as I'm a great believer in using all the same product line so as to eliminate any incompatibility problems.

Jim
 
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My painting experience is limited to painting 2 VWs with Imron back in the late 70s...and then I did none of the setup work. My dad handed me the ready to to pull the trigger gun, and told me to have at it.

The color I want is a simple non-metallic aqua/mint/seafoam green...ideally in a satin finish, but anything from flat to high gloss would be OK.

If I were ready to paint my car today, my first step would be to call a local Maaco, and see what they would charge if I dropped off my bucket and track nose. I've had a couple cars painted by Maaco shops, and was satisfied with the results both times.

If I were going the DIY route, it would be painted outdoors. That combined with my lack of experience, means I'd need an inexpensive, simple and forgiving system. The best I've seen fitting that bill is not paint at all...it's a spray on plastic coating DipYourCar.com - Plasti Dip For Your Car - World Famous Peelable Auto Paint . They have small car kits that include everything needed for under $400...from sprayer, gun and respirator...to post application protectant spray. What I like, beside coming with everything needed, is how forgiving it is. If you don't like the results, peel it off and have at it again
 
I've been spraying lacquer, urethane, conversion varnish and all sorts of other stuff professionally for nearly 40 years. The one constant is that when someone recommends a product as being good, bad, mediocre or anything else, remember that their definitions yours are probably different. Go see a sample or buy a small quantity and shoot your own. My personal preference is base coat - clear coat but that is not shared by many.
 
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I never painted a car. I helped but the only things I shot were machine bases and a few motorcycles. I'm not going to spend a lot on paint because I don't have a chrome front end. I tried the rustoleum about an hour ago on a piece of fiberglass I have from an old boat. Looked good but I think I need to thin it out some more. Its still wet it hasn't flashed yet. I just came from my friend with the goldwing. Hes been shooting clear all day. The finish looks 10 miles deep. He used that duplicolor laquer dark blue they had.
 
You can apply clear over many base paints, check compatibility and try on a practice part. I have mixed different leftover paint partials together (same brand, type)and painted projects with astonishing results, and some less than flattering as well, lol. If you use a eurothane base paint, even single stage, you can clear it and it gives a very deep marble like appearance. The color of primer or sealer will affect the color as well. Someone else mentioned base, clear...I really like it, it was a ruff transition for me from acrylic enamel to base clear because of how you apply the base color, but once I got it down, I love the end result, and the way you can work with it, blend, repair, etc... It is expensive due to all of the chemicals, and you need the correct spray equipment, ideally a base gun, and a separate clear gun, but I started by using the same gun for both. Not now, after I learned to use it. The thing I notice between automotive quality paint verses hobby or equipment grade is the quality and consistency of the chemicals, especially the reducers and thinners along with longevity, and the freshness of the product. The reducer is critical to the finish, it needs to be fast enough to allow the paint to cure and not run, but slow enough to allow coverage, and flow, without excessive orange peel or dry overspray areas. The temperature and shop conditions dictate the selection along with what you are painting, a whole car or parts, etc...Also if you want to have the option of repairing or touch up, I strongly reccomend buying some extra paint from the same mix and saving it for later.
 
I'm learning a lot from you guys. Thank You! Its been a real journey with this car doing new things to add to my skill envelope. Seems like paint changes every 5 years or so. Can't wait to spray it.
 
I used Summit direct to metal epoxy primer and Summit paint. Sprayed great. It is one stage; i.e. glossy; but can be clear coated too. Very reasonable price.
 
Got the eastwood catalog today. Was checking out there stuff too. I like the summit colors. The wife and I are looking at a metallic midnight blue, a crimson metallic or a copper metallic.
 

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