Keeper
Active Member
From what I understand, this is an indoctrination. You have to do it at least once to be admitted to the roadster club. I used my header to stand up while checking a water pump leak. Needless to say, it fricken hurt!
Radius rod bolts
- Thread starter butch27
- Start date
From what I understand, this is an indoctrination. You have to do it at least once to be admitted to the roadster club. I used my header to stand up while checking a water pump leak. Needless to say, it fricken hurt!
Keeper
Active Member
As for the heims. I went with the mxm 10 Chrome Moly.
I originally had the "upgraded" pro units from speedway, but after half a season of use, they were loose moving front to back, not super loose, but enough for me not to trust them. I kept them for none critical uses like my tiebars on the jag rear.
Look at companies that supply the midwest units. I picked mine up for $8.82 each when I ordered 10. And that's in Canada. I used racingline performance, but they are located in BC, canada.
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=2031
Looks like they are even cheaper now.
I originally had the "upgraded" pro units from speedway, but after half a season of use, they were loose moving front to back, not super loose, but enough for me not to trust them. I kept them for none critical uses like my tiebars on the jag rear.
Look at companies that supply the midwest units. I picked mine up for $8.82 each when I ordered 10. And that's in Canada. I used racingline performance, but they are located in BC, canada.
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=2031
Looks like they are even cheaper now.
TriodeLuvr
Member
Screaming Metal
Active Member
I use the dust shields, as I've had to drive down gravel roads here to go places, to parks and such. Windblown sand, dirt, grit at speeds can gum up a heim....The washers I put on the sides help press the dust seal tightly, keeping contamination out.
On my anvil at the work station, I have a square thru hole. I place the washer centered the hole, then get a medium ballpein hammer, put the ball end in the washers center hole. Then I lightly smack the back of the ballpein with a very large deadblow hammer, then I have a spherical washer to go over the dust shield. I use thick fender washers and longer bolts also....
On my anvil at the work station, I have a square thru hole. I place the washer centered the hole, then get a medium ballpein hammer, put the ball end in the washers center hole. Then I lightly smack the back of the ballpein with a very large deadblow hammer, then I have a spherical washer to go over the dust shield. I use thick fender washers and longer bolts also....
swatman260
Member
As I read this, it causes me to wonder if I have made a mistake in my design. I am building my bucket based on CCR's plans with some minor deviations. My question is in regards to the use of heims ends, at the batwing. As I have it designed, I have heims (MXM Chrome Moly from Midwest) ends on both ends of my radius rods. One where the RR connects to the frame mount, and two where the RR connects to the batwings. They are all held in place with safety washers, but is there an issue with me using the heims at the batwing instead of clevis's?
swatman260
Member
This is the best photo I have of my quetion area.
Keeper
Active Member
I have about 2000 miles on the mxm ends, still tight. Mostly short "rod run" trips, but there was also a 9 hour trip to Columbus last year.
I am not sure about the heims on the batwing. I would think that would allow to much movement side to side vs the clevis. If you jack up the front end by the frame, can you wiggle the front axle back and forth?
I am not sure about the heims on the batwing. I would think that would allow to much movement side to side vs the clevis. If you jack up the front end by the frame, can you wiggle the front axle back and forth?
swatman260
Member
There is no discernible movement side to side, even with both wheels off the ground...
2old2fast
Active Member
The "problem" w/using heims on the batwing end is , because the heim can rotate fore & aft you could experience bending / flexing of the batwing. I know what you're gonna say - well couldn't the steering arm twist as it's using the heim in the same way ?- well , generally the steering arm is made from much thicker material , that generally negates the problem. Even though you didn't ask I'd be suspect of putting that steering arm low , is it above the scrub radius ??
dave
dave
TriodeLuvr
Member
I kinda like the heims. Every time I pull the clevis ends off mine for front end work, they scrape a little more paint off the batwings. Heims would stop that from happening.
Jack
Jack
swatman260
Member
The steering arm is well above the scrub line. I think that photo is a bit misleading. Due to some conflict with my brake calipers, batwings, frame, etc, my only option was to out it on the bottom, unless I wanted the tie rod out in front...and I don't care for the look of that. I haven't found an issue yet, but I'm a long ways from driving it so I may.
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