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Rear bounce and body wobble

Ok I ripped everything apart and pulled a leaf. Surprisingly it only took about 15 minutes. I was waiting for that one thing that was going to be a problem but it never happened. The suspension actually has some nice flex to it and it rides 1000X smoother than it did before. It seems like it contained the bounce a little along with the death wobble but didn't stop it though. I also pulled the rear shocks and they are both shot. I took both off and pushed them together and they didn't move. My question is , shock mounts are 16" on center. and the shocks that were on there were 12" collapsed and 19" open. What should I get for new shocks? Front shocks seemed to be fine. Thanks again.

The shocks that were on there were Monroe 31000...Should i just stick with getting these, or upgrade?
 
The shocks that were on there were Monroe 31000...Should i just stick with getting these, or upgrade?

I would get different for the reason it has to large of a bore you want a shock that moves easier due to the light body. Here is the advertisement for monroe 31000.

Product Features
  • All Weather Fluid: Contains special modifiers to reduce friction and ensure smooth rod reaction
  • 1-3/16" Bore: Larger bore than most shocks to provide more efficient and consistent control
  • Nitrogen Gas Charged: For improved ride and handling, helps maintain tire to road contact by reducing aeration
  • 1/2" Diameter Piston Rod: Nitrocarburized rod for long service life
  • Special Seal: "Self-lubricating" fluid seal designed to retain gas without excessive wear or friction
 
I would get different for the reason it has to large of a bore you want a shock that moves easier due to the light body. Here is the advertisement for monroe 31000.

Product Features
  • All Weather Fluid: Contains special modifiers to reduce friction and ensure smooth rod reaction
  • 1-3/16" Bore: Larger bore than most shocks to provide more efficient and consistent control
  • Nitrogen Gas Charged: For improved ride and handling, helps maintain tire to road contact by reducing aeration
  • 1/2" Diameter Piston Rod: Nitrocarburized rod for long service life
  • Special Seal: "Self-lubricating" fluid seal designed to retain gas without excessive wear or friction

Thanks for the info...So i need to find something with a smaller bore
 
Thanks for the info...So i need to find something with a smaller bore

Yes the big bore will give a rough ride.Did my leaf spring directions help I try to not skip to much?
 
Don't be to quick to throw away or replace the old shocks. You don't need much dampening with a light car like the T.
I would check all the other things, unless you don't mind buying new shocks and not using them.
I would also not buy gas filled shocks. Some of the more experienced guys might advise you on whether to consider them or not.
 
Don't be to quick to throw away or replace the old shocks. You don't need much dampening with a light car like the T.
I would check all the other things, unless you don't mind buying new shocks and not using them.
I would also not buy gas filled shocks. Some of the more experienced guys might advise you on whether to consider them or not.

That seems very true...But the shocks I took off i pushed together to measure their length and 2 hours later they are still all compressed. Can't be helping too much that way.
 
Keep in mind that if the problem is flat spots on the tires, when they sit in a different rotation, the flats start to go away, and new ones start to develop. It can take weeks for them to completely go away in this cold weather, but you may notice it getting a little better each day for a while. If you could run it long enough to really warm them up, the flats would disapear. Like someone said, you could try airing them more to aid as well. Bad shocks will make the bounce a LOT worse with flat spots... JMHO...
 
Keep in mind that if the problem is flat spots on the tires, when they sit in a different rotation, the flats start to go away, and new ones start to develop. It can take weeks for them to completely go away in this cold weather, but you may notice it getting a little better each day for a while. If you could run it long enough to really warm them up, the flats would disapear. Like someone said, you could try airing them more to aid as well. Bad shocks will make the bounce a LOT worse with flat spots... JMHO...

Ok, thanks for the info

Trying to find shocks has been tough. Everything that long seems to be for trucks or heavy duty suspension. I sent some emails out to some shops, don't know if anyone will respond though.
 
I got a email back from speedway they actually have 2 different sets that will fit for collapsed and extended lengths that i need. The regulars have a valving of 4/4 and the chromes are 3/3. Can anyone explain valving? Thanks
 
I got a email back from speedway they actually have 2 different sets that will fit for collapsed and extended lengths that i need. The regulars have a valving of 4/4 and the chromes are 3/3. Can anyone explain valving? Thanks

Looks like the lighter the car the smaller valving you want according to this race site.

Zero error racing
 
here is a pic of what i'm working with
0217011645.jpg


Tyus 4-- I want to compliment you on posting your photos. Not an easy thing to do. I have an offer for you. If you will take your hair pins off the front, also rear radius rods, you can use a new steering arm at the spindle. Put the car on carjacks and take photos for us, package the parts up, send the parts to Ron's shop, RPM, one of the forum sponsors. You pay for the shipping to Ron's. I will buy you new radius rods and new traction rods. Ron can make the plates. I'll buy you a new steering arm. All you have to do, is show the progress on your car. I will pay for the parts and shipping from Ron's shop to your place, if you're serious about this. Everyone's having hard times, including me. But I'd be glad to help you!!
 
GOOD LORD!!!! Don't look at his teeth!! Go for it!!!!!

Ron
 
Tyus 4-- I want to compliment you on posting your photos. Not an easy thing to do. I have an offer for you. If you will take your hair pins off the front, also rear radius rods, you can use a new steering arm at the spindle. Put the car on carjacks and take photos for us, package the parts up, send the parts to Ron's shop, RPM, one of the forum sponsors. You pay for the shipping to Ron's. I will buy you new radius rods and new traction rods. Ron can make the plates. I'll buy you a new steering arm. All you have to do, is show the progress on your car. I will pay for the parts and shipping from Ron's shop to your place, if you're serious about this. Everyone's having hard times, including me. But I'd be glad to help you!!
Just to let you know when I started building Mine people on here sold me parts at unbelievable prices. Thanks guys thats what friends you don't know will do. So when I travel I make a point to go meet people I have met on here I think 7 or 8 friends that I have met so far.
 

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