Rear Disk brakes only

[gsbrealty]

I have old school motor cycle spoke wheels on the frt. with no brakes and would like to run GM single piston calipers on the rear. Any one tried this? I got this car in pieces but it appears that this is the set up that the previous owner ran.

 

[tfeverfred]

You need brakes all around.

 

[409T]

Lots of people run rear brakes only especially with very narrow front tires like you have. I have one friend that does that with a tub (front and rear seat T-bucket) and he has no trouble. You need wide rear tires and good rear brakes though.

 

[old round fart]

Just add distance for stopping and you will be fine.

 

[fletcherson]

Hmmm when I first joined this forum, I had just procured a t with only rear brakes and EVERYONE declared that it was unsafe.... my thought is for control, better to have four wheel brakes, but that's just my OPINION. Btw, I went to extremes to install disc brakes on my spindle mount magnesium spoked wheels.

 

[old round fart]

A friend of mine built a '23 in 1972 with no front brakes and he has been driving it to date with no problems. Just allow plenty of distance and drive defensively.

 

[C cab t]

What manufacture rear end are you wanting to add disc brakes?

 

[Spanky]

This is one possibility . . .
(There are other kits with different backspacing.)

Speedway Rear Disc Brake Kit with Emergency Brake, 3 Inch Backspace

 

[AusBucket]

Agree with Fletcherson,
Couldn't think of anything worse than driving around with rear braking only, you never have enough time or space when you need them most!!
Regards,

 

[fluidfloyd]

I have old school motor cycle spoke wheels on the frt. with no brakes and would like to run GM single piston calipers on the rear. Any one tried this? I got this car in pieces but it appears that this is the set up that the previous owner ran.

Depending on where you live you might legally need four wheel brakes. Check it out before you run into a roadblock at DMV.

George

 

[C cab t]

Do you have a title for your car? Does it have to be inspected before being registered? Before you spend time and money building, make sure you can register your toy so you can play. Here in AZ they measured the distance my headlights were from the ground.
I enjoy the build but when it's time too play PRICELESS!!

 

[gsbrealty]

yes I have an Illinois title

 

[C cab t]

Go for it.

 

[railroad]

Do the build where you have room for a dual master cyl later if you decide.

 

[C cab t]

When I asked what rear end you have I meant auto manufacture.
Ford GM Chrysler

 

[gsbrealty]

Appears to be a posi from a 70's camaro

 

[C cab t]

Thanks for the reply.
I just completed a Ford explorer convertion on a 8" Maverick. I was hoping your was a 8" or 9" Ford.
This convertion cost me less than $ 100.00

 

[Hackerbilt]

Add space...drive defensively...give yourself lots of room.
These T buckets are sketchy enough in traffic. I don't have the guts to leave being able to stop in time to MY planning and the other guys willingness to play by the rules.
They are all distracted idiots driving fast, responsive cars with multiple safety features and very effective brakes. They will get you eventually...and you will be at fault...or hurt.
Maybe both.

My car was built with no front brakes. It stopped.
Not effectively...but it did stop.
Previous owner tried to power brake it the first day out...slid past his driveway and almost into an intersection. Lots of noise...not much stopping.
He added front brakes and drove it all over the place with no worries.
I've made some changes myself and now it stops even better.
Still not as good as a new car due to the skinny fronts...but at least I feel like I have control.

Your car...your choice I guess.

 

[fletcherson]

Add space...drive defensively...give yourself lots of room.
These T buckets are sketchy enough in traffic. I don't have the guts to leave being able to stop in time to MY planning and the other guys willingness to play by the rules.
They are all distracted idiots driving fast, responsive cars with multiple safety features and very effective brakes. They will get you eventually...and you will be at fault...or hurt.
Maybe both.

My car was built with no front brakes. It stopped.
Not effectively...but it did stop.
Previous owner tried to power brake it the first day out...slid past his driveway and almost into an intersection. Lots of noise...not much stopping.
He added front brakes and drove it all over the place with no worries.
I've made some changes myself and now it stops even better.
Still not as good as a new car due to the skinny fronts...but at least I feel like I have control.

Your car...your choice I guess.

Years ago I built a '76 Pontiac Ventura. It was a v6 auto car and I frame offed it, put a built 455-4 speed in it, frame ties, etc... It had front disc brakes, I put the most aggressive metallic pads on it that were available as well as semi metallic shoes on the rear. Around town or normal type driving it was fine, but if I got happy and let her roll, it would scare me to death trying to stop fast. From over 100 to about 60 it would respond well, but then they would heat up and seem totally ineffective. There were times where I literally leg pressed the brakes, pulling on the steering wheel. I ended up redoing all the brakes on it. From then on, I built the cars to drive, not just go fast. I'd hate to destroy a prized build over inferior brakes.

 

[Hackerbilt]

Years ago I built a '76 Pontiac Ventura. It was a v6 auto car and I frame offed it, put a built 455-4 speed in it, frame ties, etc... It had front disc brakes, I put the most aggressive metallic pads on it that were available as well as semi metallic shoes on the rear. Around town or normal type driving it was fine, but if I got happy and let her roll, it would scare me to death trying to stop fast. From over 100 to about 60 it would respond well, but then they would heat up and seem totally ineffective. There were times where I literally leg pressed the brakes, pulling on the steering wheel. I ended up redoing all the brakes on it. From then on, I built the cars to drive, not just go fast. I'd hate to destroy a prized build over inferior brakes.

I found a new respect for pad and shoe compounds last summer. That can really make a difference!
I was locking fronts on grass or loose surfaces the first year I had her.
Finally added a front Proportioning Valve to limit the fronts slightly. (My rear wheel cylinders were already max sized.) Worked great with just a slight adjustment from wide open.

Anyway...my front pads were squeeling a little so I bought new pads at the end of the season.
Semi-metallic high quality ones.
Brakes were much harder and not effective last summer! I opened the PV fully to allow full pressure to the fronts again. STILL not a brake I felt good about.
I continued to drive it till summer was over and then I sanded and reused the old pads this past winter.

Brakes now work great again...and I had to slightly limit front pressure with the PV just like before.
I believe the GOOD pads are actually old school organic compound.
Seems like the semi-metallic pads might actually be designed for long wear and not short stops!

Good brakes make for a much bigger smile out on the road and I like long runs.