Rust removal using electrolysis

[GizmoJoe]

Living on the East Coast of Canada, I'm all too well acquainted with rust.
I'm assembling a Johnny-Cash style T (one piece at a time... 49, 50, 51, etc.) that's mainly rust so I need all the help I can get removing the nasty stuff.

I mentioned in a post last year that I mess about with removing rust using electrolysis (or Reverse Electrolysis to be more correct) and would do a post on it.
Life has been more than "busy" for me but I'll finally post something about it.

I acknowledge that many of you are "wealthy" compared to me when it come to acquiring parts for your Ts. No offense meant. This won't be of much use to the folks who buy everything new.
However, if you have to risk damaging old tin by media blasting... this is just one alternative I use. Molasses dipping (serious.. look it up) is another. But that's for a different post.

There are MANY places on the interweb to learn about this process. Therefore, I'll not bother you with details unless asked.
I'm not an expert but I've been using the process for a few years with great success.

This is a very safe process but as in anything there are a few concerns:
-Do NOT to use things like Stainless Steel for the sacrificial steel or Lye for the electrolyte as some old sights mention! VERY VERY bad things occur. Death being one.
-Hydrogen is created so inside a building is not the place for this.
-Hydrogen embrittlement can occur so doing this on suspension pieces is not recommended unless you "cook" the part to release the hydrogen.
-Not a "problem" but the process is "line-of-sight". It won't go around corners.

It is very safe if done right. HONEST! Keep it simple and all will be well.

Anyway... I didn't want to plug this site up with pictures so here is a link to the latest cleanup:

http://s270.photobuc...20electrolysis/

If the mods want to move or delete this that's fine with me.
If anyone has a question... fire away.

Joe

 

[butch27]

That is so cool. I took my motorcycle (antique) wheel to a place here in Michigan that does something like that. For $20.00.

 

[Keeper]

This works great for smaller parts. If you need big parts done, look into Molasses. Build yourself a big box, line it so its water tight.

Its slow, but it works. On another site I am on a guy built a 4x4x4 box and did an entire 27 coupe at once. Took a few weeks but it came out clean.

 

[GizmoJoe]

Keeper, I agree completely that molasses is great for large and small projects. But I've seen a complete large trailer frame and axle done with electrolysis. They used a DC welder for the power supply.
The nice thing about this is the speed compared to molasses. Also, washing soda is dirt cheap.
The downside is the line-of-sight thing.

I've done a fair bit with molasses. I like the fact it gets in nooks and crannies compared to electrolysis.
But it is as slow as.. well... molasses!
A leak in the container costs money to replace molasses where with this, just top it up with water.
Molasses stinks and attracts critters so you have to seal it well.

I also use Evapo-Rust. It's a lot more more expensive but it won't harm anything so you can dip or wash whatever you want.
Safest Rust Remover is the same type of stuff. Check out their website for an impressive slide show.

All methods have their place.
I just wish I had know about this when I was fixing cars for a living.

 

[Youngster]

Really good presentation Joe. :good:

Ron

 

[GizmoJoe]

Thanks Ron.
It was just for fun.
Thought someone might be interested.

Joe

 

[Mike]

Hmmm, it seems an old dog (me) can still learn new tricks. I've never heard of using molasses for rust removal, until just now. Thanks, Joe.

 

[GizmoJoe]

Cheers, Mike!
The first time read about molasses removing rust I checked to make sure it wasn't April fool's day...
Apparently it's been used for over a hundred years. No one told me!

I've read that you need this type or that type of molasses and it needs to have sulfur or no sulfur and blah, blah, blah...
Sulfur? We don't need no stinking sulfur! hmm that movie quote makes a lot of sense in this context.

I took some plain old table molasses. It wasn't even full strength stuff. I had the dreaded "lite" word on it.
I mixed up 1 part of it with 8 parts water, poured it in a small container, dropped in a brake adjuster that had been in the dirt for 10 years or more, screwed on the cap lightly and waited.

After a couple days I pulled the cap. Didn't smell too bad. I noticed a speck of difference on the part. Back on with the cover.
One week... Oh there's the smell! Less rust on the part! WOW! They weren't tugging at my lower extremities!
Two weeks and it came out gray and rust-free.

The technical jargon says it's the process of "chelation". Words like polynucleic acid and polydentate ligands are used (I copied and pasted... not that educated). I don't really care. It works and works well.

Just like Keeper said.. people dip whole bodies (Cars, that is) in the stuff.
When done with it just pour it out. No HASMAT call needed.

Use your favorite search engine or my favorite, a "meta-search" engine like www.dogpile.com and search for "molasses rust removal".

Joe