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T-350 kickdown cable questions

Bowtie T

Active Member
I want to eliminate the kickdown cable. How do you seal off the hole in the case? I havent seen
anything for that. I have no problem just fabbing a plate and a rubber gasket or sealer of some kind. Also, what about where the little wire connects to the valve body? Just unhook it? Not sure about the little push rod thingy? Thanks
 
I want to eliminate the kickdown cable. How do you seal off the hole in the case? I havent seen
anything for that. I have no problem just fabbing a plate and a rubber gasket or sealer of some kind. Also, what about where the little wire connects to the valve body? Just unhook it? Not sure about the little push rod thingy? Thanks

Wanting to and needing to are two different things. The kick down cable adjust pressure for the tranny as well as kick the tranny to a lower gear. Unhooked can cause more problems unless it is modified for drag racing only. I believe I'm correct for the TH350 as well as all GM trannys.
 
Wanting to and needing to are two different things. The kick down cable adjust pressure for the tranny as well as kick the tranny to a lower gear. Unhooked can cause more problems unless it is modified for drag racing only. I believe I'm correct for the TH350 as well as all GM trannys.
I don't think the kickdown on the 350 is the same as the throttle valve on subsequent GM transmissions. I'm pretty sure it's simply kickdown on the 350. I don't see any advantage to eliminating it, except that the cables are expensive, the last time I bought one, I had to buy a adjustable, universal type and really did not think much of it. Seems it was in the fifty dollar range, and I felt it was worth about five... but that's aftermarket.
 
I just looked out of queriosity and the kickdown on the 350 is just for kickdown. The modulator valve controls shift points, which is the function of the throttle valve on subsequent GM trannys. You can remove the linkage (wire) from the valve body and simply install a small freeze out plug to block off the hole, but unless you plan on always manual shifting, it's not recommended. It can cause premature failure, although in a light car with adequate gearing may not be as big of a deal. Personally, I'd retain it.
 
I disconnected mine and just blocked it off on tranny as suggested. The car is so light i have yet to need it for passing etc. I just throw it in drive and go.
 
I just looked out of queriosity and the kickdown on the 350 is just for kickdown. The modulator valve controls shift points, which is the function of the throttle valve on subsequent GM trannys. You can remove the linkage (wire) from the valve body and simply install a small freeze out plug to block off the hole, but unless you plan on always manual shifting, it's not recommended. It can cause premature failure, although in a light car with adequate gearing may not be as big of a deal. Personally, I'd retain it.
Thanks fletcherson, I just think it looks alot cleaner without the cable. It will still shift up and down on its own driving normally right? only if i want to get on it i will have to manually downshift?
Gonna try it without the cable but i will keep it incase i change my mind later.
 
I did a thread here about this, inc pics.
 
I put a 400 in my bucket, because it has electric kickdown and I thought I'd wire it to the EFI. But our torque/weight ratios are so high there is no need for kickdown and I never did hook it up. If the 400 ever expires (25 years and going strong) I might even try a Powerglide. Two gears are plenty.
 
I put a 400 in my bucket, because it has electric kickdown and I thought I'd wire it to the EFI. But our torque/weight ratios are so high there is no need for kickdown and I never did hook it up. If the 400 ever expires (25 years and going strong) I might even try a Powerglide. Two gears are plenty.
I saw a pg listed in the Columbus Ohio Craigslist for 150 or 200 this weekend... I thought to myself, someone is looking for that... it's not often that I see them lately.
 
The best seal for your kickdown cable hole is a kickdown cable. If you don't want to downshift, don't floor it. TH350 is a brilliant design that is hard to improve upon. Install the cable, open the throttle with engine off, and lock it down. Done. Never needs adjusting again.
 
Funny how this came up just as this thread appeared. I was rearranging my throttle return springs when the kickdown cable got slack and detached the linkage inside the transmission. Now, instead of the frustrating job of attaching the cable to the linkage, I have to drop the pan and lose the fluid to reattach the linkage inside the transmission. Never had this happen before and the cable was never disconnected, just temporarily slack.
 
Some parts of TH350 seem to be designed by cavemen. Anyone who reworks the governor uses finishing nails for pins, and the kickdown linkage seems to be improvised from coat hanger wire.
 
Made 2 of these. One for the KD and one for the filler tube.

dip tube plug (1) [640x480] (2015_11_13 11_07_31 UTC).JPG
 
I never hooked it up on my first T Bucket and never had a problem and never missed it. I made a plug for the opening. When I wanted to go faster suddenly.... I just gave her more gas. On a side note, from what I've read, in a car light weight car like a T Bucket, the last thing you'd want is a trans that drops into 2nd, then into 3rd, at speed. Could be a little hairy. Now, I repeat..... I READ THIS SOME WHERE. But if you think about it, it does make food for thought.
 

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