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The Yeti's 27 T Build

Narrowed the seat today. Managed to keep the fold down feature. No surprise when I saw it needs to have the seat back chopped too. Making progress.

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Cut, sleeved, plug welded.. just as strong as factory.

This is a 3rd row seat out of a 2000s Chrysler Town & Country.

I need to pick up foam and vinyl of choosing to reupholster. Sadly the original foam and cover was sticky and smelled bad.. kids...
 
I am enjoying the process of porting, but I wish their was a fast forward button for it.

Still working on my perfect cut on the intake. I keep finding places I think would benefit.
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But the exhaust is done. Just need to do it 6 more times.
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Back in the day, I watched a neighbor spend the better part of a summer porting a set of heads for his Chevy 327-powered drag racing Austin Healy. At the track, it was worth it as he regularly kicked the competition. (Induction was dual four BBL on a low rise manifold - pretty strong for early '60's)
 
It's definitely time consuming. Not to mention the late nights laying in bed awake reading about porting and looking at flow bench proven content.

Some people hog these out to no end and ruin them.
 
I ported a set of Ford 2.9 V6 heads. It was a long and very slow process. I just cleaned up the ports matched the ports and worked on the short side radius and un shrouded the valve a bit. I pity the people whom do this for a living...My back still hurts and the noise still echo's in my head.:cool:
 
The noise of my compressor is the worst part. It's a 20 gal compressor and it can't keep up with the 1/4 die grinder but I don't want to use one of those bulky electric ones.
 
I used both tools plus a 3/8 drill with a HS burr bit. and tons of little sanding rolls.. The ports are nice but I wonder if thee many hours was really worth it.
 
I ported a set of Ford 2.9 V6 heads. It was a long and very slow process. I just cleaned up the ports matched the ports and worked on the short side radius and un shrouded the valve a bit. I pity the people whom do this for a living...My back still hurts and the noise still echo's in my head.:cool:
I have a friend who used to build engines for Jeg Coughlin and he did a lot or porting work. Of course he had lots of burs and long neck die grinders, etc. I don’t like doing it too much, myself. The mess is seemingly never ending too. Like sandblasting.
 
The most i've ever done to a head , was port matching. I used a new intake manifold gasket & a new exhaust manifold gasket for my references. Basically what i did was to bolt both manifold gaskets in place , then i made a line inside the manifold gaskets. I then removed the head's metal down to the line i had scribed. After i finished removing the excess metal from the head , I bolted the exhaust gasket to the exhaust headers & also removed the excess metal. This will improve the air flow into & out of the head. All the ports will match the gasket's ports. PS: You also have to port match the intake manifold & maybe even the carburetor opening. This technique is more than 30 years old. It may be a waste of time.
 
I had a set of pro worked ported and polished heads and they started to leak water from getting to close to water jacket and brazed up. I replaced them with 283 2 barrel heads and my butt dyno could not feel any difference. The blower just stuffed the air in there. I think the little tweaks are not needed for the street especially if you have a blower.
 
I agree with DonnyRay & ORF: this kind of porting is not necessary for a street engine. If you're going racing, then go for it. But most T-buckets are street machines. :D
 
I agree with DonnyRay & ORF: this kind of porting is not necessary for a street engine. If you're going racing, then go for it. But most T-buckets are street machines. :D
Necessary, probably not, but from experience on a naturally aspirated engine, it does make a difference when combined with other mods... like with every other modification. On a light car like our buckets, I doubt any performance gain will be realized... maybe how fast you spin the tires? Lol! Gasket matching the ports seems like something that shouldn’t be necessary. I do it, but always thought the ports should match anyways. Look at the port size difference between a Cleveland two barrel engine verses a four barrel engine... it depends where you want the power on the rpm range.
 
I agree with DonnyRay & ORF: this kind of porting is not necessary for a street engine. If you're going racing, then go for it. But most T-buckets are street machines. :D
Yes.
 
What Yeti seems to be doing is " FLOWING ". Increasing the flow through the heads by shaping the runners to get a smoother flow & unshrouding the valves. He may need to have a machine shop grind 3 angles on the valves seats ( 3 angle valve job ). Yeti , can your current valves handle no lead gasoline ?
 

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