akitagandy
Member
It's time to run brake lines ,Does anyone have any tips or pointers before I get started, Disc on front and drum on rear, I want to try to do it one time
time to run brake lines
- Thread starter akitagandy
- Start date
benT
Active Member
Here are a few from my build:
I bought pre-made steel lines for my rear axle, and used a pre-made block/rubber flex line. The steel parts were painted with the rear axle. The rest of my lines were custom bent from straight SS tube. If your lines don't show, reg. steel is ok, but I like the SS for the exposed lines. If you do use SS, polish the tube FIRST as it is tough to machine polish later. I like using AN fittings (the nickel plated ones) but I have seen some nice steel lines with the steel fittings. SS is next to impossible to do the double flare, so if that is the way you are going, steel is the ticket.
As for running your lines, you can use stiff wire (coathanger) to try the layout before bending the final ones. If you have not bent or flared lines, practice on some old lines first to master the bender and flare tool. If you don't have the tools, I think Autozone and Advance can loan them. Here's a tip I learned the hard way on: Look at whre you are mounting the lines (brake or gas) and make sure that they are accessable later if you have any issue, but are NOT in the way if you need to jack or place jack stands on the frame.
I like a lot of clamps on my lines, and just drill and tap the frame for the screw. I used the SS type, but the adel type works good too.
Make sure you check the length on both of the front flexible lines before ordering. There can be a difference from side to side. Again, I used SS flex lines as they are exposed for the world to see. Make sure to get the good ones from a reputable place. Some of the cheap ones at the swap meet are chinese junk. I don't need to lose my life over a $10 hose.
Not that you need to hear it, but it is always worth repeating for all the new builders, Brakes are NOT the place to be cheap. Do it right or don't do it at all!
I bought pre-made steel lines for my rear axle, and used a pre-made block/rubber flex line. The steel parts were painted with the rear axle. The rest of my lines were custom bent from straight SS tube. If your lines don't show, reg. steel is ok, but I like the SS for the exposed lines. If you do use SS, polish the tube FIRST as it is tough to machine polish later. I like using AN fittings (the nickel plated ones) but I have seen some nice steel lines with the steel fittings. SS is next to impossible to do the double flare, so if that is the way you are going, steel is the ticket.
As for running your lines, you can use stiff wire (coathanger) to try the layout before bending the final ones. If you have not bent or flared lines, practice on some old lines first to master the bender and flare tool. If you don't have the tools, I think Autozone and Advance can loan them. Here's a tip I learned the hard way on: Look at whre you are mounting the lines (brake or gas) and make sure that they are accessable later if you have any issue, but are NOT in the way if you need to jack or place jack stands on the frame.
I like a lot of clamps on my lines, and just drill and tap the frame for the screw. I used the SS type, but the adel type works good too.
Make sure you check the length on both of the front flexible lines before ordering. There can be a difference from side to side. Again, I used SS flex lines as they are exposed for the world to see. Make sure to get the good ones from a reputable place. Some of the cheap ones at the swap meet are chinese junk. I don't need to lose my life over a $10 hose.
Not that you need to hear it, but it is always worth repeating for all the new builders, Brakes are NOT the place to be cheap. Do it right or don't do it at all!
oldtman
New Member
On the easiest one I ever did was 40 years ago .I put the T on the trailer and went to a shop that did hydralic hoses etc in San Jose Calif., Royal brass, they are still in business.in a nicer bigger shop The owner came out, did all the measurements. and cut and flaired all the tubing, found the right length hoses. I just had to install it.
donsrods
Member
If we want them to come out really nice what we do is first we buy a bunch of different length steel brake lines at the local auto parts store..........just the regular inexpensive ones that have the ends already on them. We take those home and use them to make up lines that we will end up duplicating in stainless steel.
We bend up the cheap ones as needed, and to get a perfect fit we cut them up and use small rubber tubing (like vacuum hose) to join the cut up sections back together. Once we get these dummy lines fitting perfectly we take a string and measure each one, going around every bend and curve. We then take those measurements and order stainless lines that someone like Inline Tube will custom make to whatever length you want. They will also put any size threaded end on each line so you won't need adapters for things line master cylinders.
When the new stainless lines come we use the dummy ones to make up the final lines out of the stainless tubing. It is so much easier working on a workbench to duplicate the shape than under the car. This way you get an exact copy of the dummy lines.
Cost isn't all that bad. You will spend about $ 30 for the dummy lines and $ 200 or so for the stainless ones, but they fit perfect and last literally forever. I am reusing the stainless lines on my 27 that I am restoring, and I made those up over 20 years ago.
Don
We bend up the cheap ones as needed, and to get a perfect fit we cut them up and use small rubber tubing (like vacuum hose) to join the cut up sections back together. Once we get these dummy lines fitting perfectly we take a string and measure each one, going around every bend and curve. We then take those measurements and order stainless lines that someone like Inline Tube will custom make to whatever length you want. They will also put any size threaded end on each line so you won't need adapters for things line master cylinders.
When the new stainless lines come we use the dummy ones to make up the final lines out of the stainless tubing. It is so much easier working on a workbench to duplicate the shape than under the car. This way you get an exact copy of the dummy lines.
Cost isn't all that bad. You will spend about $ 30 for the dummy lines and $ 200 or so for the stainless ones, but they fit perfect and last literally forever. I am reusing the stainless lines on my 27 that I am restoring, and I made those up over 20 years ago.
Don
Start with a good bender. I have one of these Tubing Bender Rolling and it works great. When I do a car, I go to the local auto parts store and buy 5 or 6 of the longest lengths of 3/16" line they have. Then cut it and flare it to what I need. I use 3/32 tig rod to bend up, then copy it for the tube. When I plumb a T, I run short pieces out of the master cylinder, to a coupling, then the rest of the line from there. It gives me a spot to tie into if I need to add a prop valve or residual pressure valve later on. Running your own lines isnt hard, but there is a little bit of work and patience needed to get a good job. And if you have never flared tubes, be preparred for a few leaks.
When I do my hard lines, I always paint them. I get them bent, flared, fitted, then mask off the nut, scuff the lines with a scotch brite, then paint. If you do frame color, they virtually disappear.
When I do my hard lines, I always paint them. I get them bent, flared, fitted, then mask off the nut, scuff the lines with a scotch brite, then paint. If you do frame color, they virtually disappear.
