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What gears?

ruggs

Member
what stall speed and rear ratio do you guys normally use? I'm going to be running a 600 HP BBC and a turbo 400. It will save me alot of time and money to not find out the hard way. This is for a full fendered c-cab and as yet I have no way to determine the total weight of the car............thanks in advance
Ron
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We need to know how you intend to drive the car.Stop light to stop light racing or just cruising.
 
Rick, the main purpose is 60mph cruzing but, I still want some potential for gas station to gas station fun.
 
I have an 8" ford in mine and a 2:73 gear great cruising but still gets my leg wet when i punch it.Good gas milage to.
 
My 23 has 3.00 gears and is great at pretty much all speed, Great gas milage too, My 27 had 3.70 gears but now that I am rebuilding the entire car I am going to probably go to 4.30 gears for a little more off the line and to take advantage of a wilder cam going in.

Generally, anything in the 3 to 3.50 range makes for a nice driver.


Don
 
If not set in stone you might want 2 think 7004r. Overdrive and good gear ratios.
 
putz, I don't really want to spend the money right now for a 700 tranny the main goal was to use what I have on hand and get it on the road. A 700 would be a good option in the future. Stall speed on the converter is bothering me cause I not used to such a light car,
Ron
 
I run a mild stall to keep from having to stand on the brakes at a stop light... 2200 I think if if memory serves me correct... didn't want transmission getting to hot or to sacrifice gas mileage... I need every ounce of the 10 MPG I get! LOL

Nailheads and T-buckets are perfect! oh yea... 3.35 to 1 posi rear end...
 
Don't be afraid to run a higher stall speed than you would in a "conventional" bodied car. Buckets are so light and easily driven that there isn't a lot of slip when you cruzin'. Around 3000rpm with a 350hp motor is about right. Don't forget as power goes up so does the stall speed, but if the stall is too low it will annoy the hell out of you wanting to creep at the lights and shaking at idle, especially with a bit of cam upgrade.
 
Just off track a little,how readily available are 700r trans over there and what sort of price are they.They are hard to get down here (new zealand) and when you do find one the cost good coin.
 
Don't be too concerned about the stall. Unless you are running some ungodly cam that requires a lot of idle rpms, even a stock converter works fine..........the one in my 23 is pretty stock and no creep at lights.

Don
 
Wild Mango said:
Don't be afraid to run a higher stall speed than you would in a "conventional" bodied car. Buckets are so light and easily driven that there isn't a lot of slip when you cruzin'. Around 3000rpm with a 350hp motor is about right. Don't forget as power goes up so does the stall speed, but if the stall is too low it will annoy the hell out of you wanting to creep at the lights and shaking at idle, especially with a bit of cam upgrade.

Mango is right on, you won't notice the stall at higher speed but makes a big difference at a stop in gear.


I run a 3500 stall and 4:10 gears, with a blown small block. It will get about 10 mpg just cruising the highway.
 
I got a blown smallblock with a full manual TH400, 3500 stall and 4.30 gears. Gas mileage had much but who cares, atleast not me, thats what I built it for... to have fun.
 
If you have 600 hp I'm guessing that you have a fairly radical cam, so at least a 3000 if not a 3500 stall. Are you running regular size tires or the big pro street type tires? It will make a big difference if you are running a 26-28 inch tall tire versus the 31 ot 33 inch tall tires like a lot of us run. If using a 26 inch tall tire with say 3.08 gears, to get the same rpm with the 31-33 inch tall tires would take a 3.55 or 3.73. Everybody hollers a 700R4, but if you do have a BB with 600 hp and the torque that comes along with it, stay away from it, because every trans builder I have dealt with tell me 400 hp is the max they will stand even beefed up in the long run, fine for stock BB or the average SB, but not with what your running, with any power at all I don't know why you need an overdrive in a car this light, it will pull a high gear without any problems, and just is something that adds to the complication factor, best to keep it simple. For reference my bucket has a high rpm tuned 331 sbc and can turn 7500-8000 and not hurt it, and I am running a TH350 with reverse manual valve body, and a 3500-3800 stall convertor with 4.30 gears, and 31 X 18.50 M/T street legal slicks, have to look hard to see miniscule tread, and it is great for performance, and if you keep your foot out of it the guy I got it from said on a 400 mile trip it got 18 mpg, I don't care about fuel milage, I never drive any extremely long trips anyway, the fun factor when you hit the loud pedal is what I like! :cool:
P.S. I have never known anyone that used a 700R4 with any amount of power that didn't break it on a regular basis, and the linkage that controls the valve in the trans is so sensitive that it is very easy to wipe the trans out if it is not adjusted perfectly, will never catch me running one, and my trans guy I use refuses to build them because of the breakage record, and he builds for many of the top name Pro Mod and Top Sportsman racers here on the east coast and from all over the country.
 
I had a 627 hp blown 454 in my heavy bucket (2500 lbs without me in it)

I ran 3.0 gears with a DPI black gold diff head. 31.5 tall tyres and a powerglide with a 3000 stall converter.

Cruising at 60mph it got 13mpg on the open road which I was happy with that. (Our gallon is bigger than yours)

Only ran 11.0s @ 124 on the quarter tho and I was very disapointed with that, so fitted 4.56 gears and a minispool and got down to 10.2 @132 Crossed the line at 6800 revs but was running short of fuel

New engine is 540 cubes with the blower & I want 9s with 3.0 gears, or low 9s with 3.7s. Sounds much more streetable.
 
Kyle, regarding the 700r4, most people seem scared of them.

I had one some years back in a 5.0 holden and it was bulletproof. Towed the bucket to the dragstrip numerous times.

I got Chuck Mann in Rotorua to build one for my 37 Nash sedan which has a vortex blown 350 Camaro engine. Puts out about 450hp. Havent finished the car yet, but will get Chuck down to sort the TV cable thing. It seems that if you get that setup wrong, you fry your trans super quick. :eek: And I think thats why everyone runs away when they get a mention.

However, GM put them in millions? of cars so they cant be all bad
 
As a side note, I did order the 9 inch center section today for my 27............went with 4.30 trac-loc. If any one is looking for a great source to buy either an 8 or 9 inch center section PM me. My guy is great to deal with (second one we bought from him) and the warranty starts when you get the car running, not when you buy the rear. He uses all top notch parts and all new.

Don
 
I love a turbo 400 with a manual valve body, shift back into low gear at any speed. I use a stock GM truck converter, and I NEVER leave Her in gear at any light, that is what neutral is for, just click it in gear and off you go, no problems.. I run as tall a gear as my engine can pull... and in a light car, that is plenty tall... Ride safe :D
 
700R4 will definently not handle 600 hp LONG. Got a buddy that has a 38 Chevy sedan with a blown 434 smallblock with a highly modified 700R4. Its been rebuilt 3 times cause it cannot handle the power more than a few months. I would not recommend a 700R4 if you have over 400 hp. Get a TH400 if you want mucho power and stay away from OD trans or you're just asking for trouble.
 

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