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White T II

Is that an entire torch assembly or just a remote wireless amp controller. Undoubtedly my 1967 Lincoln 300-300 Idealarc Will not be a doable deal.
It is a remote amp controller, just like a foot pedal, but it is not wireless. I have mine hooked up to an old Miller 250 DX that I bought before inverters came on the market. The frame that I am working on is about 12" off the ground so I am crawling around on hands and knees to weld brackets in place. I have been using the button exclusively, so much better than a knee or elbow on the pedal.
 
It's the same TigButton 409T has. I just removed the button form it cas and installed on a CK FlexLoc torch with shrink tubing. To use the Tigbutton, you would unplug the black/yellow wireless controller for the foot pedal and plug in the connector to the left of it, with the small grey wire, in its place. I read somewhere that they have made some Tigbuttons for special applications. I don't think it has to be an inverter style welder. It's great for welding inside a dragster roll cage.
 
Forgive me for jumping in on your thread. Here's another brand showing how they work.

 
I'm not really thrilled with the front panhard bar placement, but I couldn't think of any other way to do it. At least now the engine, trans and radiator are all located and bolted in.
103744_re.jpg110329_re.jpg 103813_re.jpg
 
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Panhard looks fine and not many choices. I might be a bit concerned with drive line angles. Would like to see straight on photo from either side.
 
Do you have an I-beam and trolly running across your ceiling?

Looks like a nice set up.
 
Panhard looks fine and not many choices. I might be a bit concerned with drive line angles. Would like to see straight on photo from either side.
I know what you're saying but at the moment I'm not too sure what I can do. The drive lines in our other two T-buckets are pretty crooked also and they have survived, but I know that isn't the correct idea.
 
I am going to use a left over deuce radiator that has been cut down 3". I don't want a deuce radiator shell, a Model T one doesn't fit as well as I would like so I bought a Model A one from CCR and cut it down 3" in height. I decided that I wanted it to be an inch or so deeper so that it would better cover the radiator, this meant adding to the rear lip of the shell. First I cut a piece of Formica to make a backer inside the shell and covered it with masking tape so that it wouldn't stick to the resin and mat that I am going to put in.091947_re.jpg 091957_re.jpg Next I spring clamped the Formica into the back side of the shell. 162043_re.jpg 162037_re.jpg 162022_re.jpg The last thing was to start putting layers of fiberglass mat onto the Formica backer. 100928_re.jpg After I have enough layers of mat to reach the desired thickness I will add one layer of glass on the front and back to hold everything together.
 
That's some impressive bending.

Do you have one of those roller type coil straighteners?
 
Got the engine all cleaned up. 101101_re.jpg
 

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