Windshield Post

[OptimusPrime]

Hey Guys, I know some of you have made your own windshield post can you explain the process I have a set that are leaned back but they have too much rake and once set up will be almost on top to the steering wheel. I have a pretty good idea of how they should go but need some direction. I already have the half tube that holds the frame but need the body mounts and not sure how to proceed? I have considered cutting the ones I have a rerakeing them but don't know if I could do it and they still look good. I believe they are stainless they came from Wintec

 

[Keeper]

Patiently awaiting comments as I plan on making my own as well.

 

[ruggs]

On the topic of DIY winshield posts, Why doesn't one of the machine shop people sell grooved alum. round stock? A little drilling, tapping and polishing and you could save a bunch. $150 for the stancion and you could have a nice looking set-up........ruggs

 

[Gerry]

I made my own screen bracket. Took 9 pieces on each, a load of bending and welding, couple of hours of grinding, finishing. Worth the effort but it all takes time.

Gerry

 

[Youngster]

The hardest part of building your own posts is getting started.

Cut a plate to bolt to the body out of 10ga. or 1/8" stock. Cut another plate to fit on the back or dash side. Take a hint from Gerry here. Add a short tab to the bottom of this plate to bolt through the top lip on the body. That way you only need one bolt on the outside of the body. That second bolt is always a b!tch to get in anyway.

You can find some with a 1/8" wall tubing somewhere between 1" to 1 1/4" to split for the window frame. Shape them to 7/8" on the inside. Cut 2 pieces for each side and weld them at a 90 degree angle. Install these on your frame and possition this on top of the body bracket at your desired angle and weld her up.

Use those Wintec posts for patterns and sell 'em off when you're done.

Ron

 

[Gerry]

heres a few more pics that might help

sorry they are in the wrong order but you will be able to see how I did it
gerry

 

[OptimusPrime]

Gerry, thats about as straight forward as it comes great work and great idea, I think I can get it done by your example thanks a bunch Bob.

 

[Allen]

Gerry--what keeps the windshield frame in place!?

 

[Gerry]

I think there is a thread all about this somewhere back.

OK I have a bolt that goes up from underneath the body, thro the bracket and in to the windscreen frame. On top of that the bracket that hold the frame has been milled 1/2 round to hold the screen frame as tight as it can.

So the frame is held by the 1/2 round on the bracket, a bolt from underneath and when it gets finally fixed some really good glue between the frame and the bracket. That should do it.

gerry

 

[Allen]

Hi Gerry, The windshield brackets looks super nice. On photograph 5, it shows a gap between the body and the windshield frame. Just curious, does that get fiberglassed!?

 

[Keeper]

Those look great! Thanks for the pics.

 

[Youngster]

On the original bodies there was a rubber gasket that fit between the lower frame and the cowl.

Ron

 

[Allen]

Ohhhh! okay! Thanks Ron! I wanted to tell you I saw your build. I really like it.
On the original bodies there was a rubber gasket that fit between the lower frame and the cowl.

Ron
[/quote]

 

[Gerry]

Hi Gerry, The windshield brackets looks super nice. On photograph 5, it shows a gap between the body and the windshield frame. Just curious, does that get fiberglassed!?

It gets 'backfilled with glass and filler to make a real snug fit. Aids the support that way. Just wrap the bracket in cling film (food packing stuff) and bolt the bracket home before the glass goes off.
Gerry

 

[Ted Brown]

As far as a real tight fit with the windshield frame and body, a gap does not hurt a thing, as a matter of fact, a larger gap lets the wind through and lets you hair go back wards not forward like it will if there in no gap... Works like the 3 inch holes, adjustable, in Motor cycle windshields, stops that back draft...

 

[Gerry]

Oops misunderstood. I thought you were referring to the gap between the bracket and the body.

The gap between the frame and the cowl will be left open. reason is as Ted says plus it look better IMO that way
Gerry

 

[Allen]

Oops misunderstood. I thought you were referring to the gap between the bracket and the body.

The gap between the frame and the cowl will be left open. reason is as Ted says plus it look better IMO that way
Gerry

I disagree with both Gerry and Ted. Just a matter of opinion and preference. I like to see clean lines, even lines, whether it be hood gaps door gaps, or a cal on a T bucket--.My own opinion, I like a groove cut into the body about 3/8 of an inch with the windshield frame sitting in the groove, ever so lightly touching. If you don't have a groove, the cal should be even and level with the windshield frame. My own opinion, no see through. Ted, you have changed. Ron was right with the rubber. The original model T's had it. '26 and 27's are different. JMO

 

[Ted Brown]

Too close of a fit makes for chipped paint, that is if you DRIVE the car... I sure hope I change, everyday for the better, or a bit smarter...

 

[Allen]

Too close of a fit makes for chipped paint, that is if you DRIVE the car... I sure hope I change, everyday for the better, or a bit smarter...

Hello Ted, I drove over to your old shop years ago with Jim Babbs. He introduced me to you. I was looking at your shop and the work that you did. I know what you're talking about with the windshield frame. Just off the paint a little ways, but even all the way across. And I do think you have changed for the better, although I liked you when I met you. Never too old to learn. P.S. I was friends with all the LA Roadster guys and also all the Early Times Club, including Dan E.

hee hee!!

 

[GAB]

This is a little different approach to mounting a windshield that was used on several cars in this area. The post are round stock that have a groove milled in them and they drop into a close fitting tube that is welded to a frame work that supports the front portion of the body. They are secured with a set screw. There is a board that runs from post to post that has a matching groove cut in it for the glass, glassed to the body, and the top edge is shaped to the body contour. Pretty clean, simple and inexpensive.

This car also has a rather interesting solution to the problem of doors being too small to get in easily.

The way that the door follows the body line of the '27 body, the change is hardly noticeable.