akitagandy
Member
I got my windshield frame done but I need to know what to make the support rods out of, do i ues solid or tube and what size ?
windshield support rods
- Thread starter akitagandy
- Start date
If you want to try to make them stand out as a design element, use some sort of fat tube and let them call attention to themselves. I prefer not to have them be a focal point and would agree with RPM. Make them as unobtrusive as possible, use 1/4" stainless rod, thread the ends and stick them into stainless heims. Don't forget jamb nuts.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
I used stainless tube (don't have the dimensions handy) and flattened the ends in an arbor press, then drilled for the mounting bolts. Windshield end is attached to the windshield hinge bolts and the other end is bolted to the frame using the side bolts on the headlight mounts.
On the windshield, to one of the bolts on the either decorative or functional hinges or drill and tap the windshield frame for a new bolt. The latter probably means removing the glass, your mileage may vary. At the bottom, to the frame if possible. I have one that attaches to brackets on the radiator and I much prefer attaching to the frame. Changing this one from the radiator to the frame is on the list, just not very high up.
Jeff
How big a tight wad are you??? If you come close to me, I used drive shafts from a Stihl brushcutter (7MM diameter) and welded on the ends. the ends are like 5/16" thick washers, which I cut a notch out of one side to weld the rod into. makes a very strong connection. the drive shafts are made of a very high chromium content steel and very stiff. not likely to get bent unless you drop an engine on one. mower shops will have several in the bone yard with stripped end splines available for free (my kinda price).
Russ
Rather sexy, but not the most practical - don't back up too fast.
They're streamline flying wires or the criss-cross wire you see between the upper and lower wing panels on bi planes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tie-...otors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item562f8f33af
They're streamline flying wires or the criss-cross wire you see between the upper and lower wing panels on bi planes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tie-...otors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item562f8f33af
Gerry
Well-Known Member
OK Guys.
I am going to throw one up here and wait for the flack.
I know nearly every Bucket has these but I keep thinking they take your eye away from the engine, the biggest and best feature of any T. Otherwise we would all run hoods. I have spent hours trying to come up with a way of supporting the screen without the need for stays.
If you want to detract from something run a line at an angle in front of the thing you want people to not notice. Old marketing saying/ thing. Ask any type setter.
So what say you all.
I am ducking as we speak, waiting for the howls of horror.
gerry
PS Lee
I never notice the furry dices before.
Lee_in_KC
Active Member
Well, Gerry, here's my take on windshield stays. I have them for two reasons... I like the look and I need them to keep my windshield from blowing back in my face! I think having them gives a more traditional look, which is what I was going for in the overall theme of the car. And in my case, I need them to reinforce the windshield since where the posts mount to the body is not very strong. In hind-sight, I wish I had fabricated some sort of hoop running up from the frame and behind the dash, with some welded-on pads to reinforce the windshield post mounting area. I would still have used the stays, but the the hoop would make the whole upper cowl/dash area more stable. I guess it's not too late to do the hoop... I haven't done the upholstery yet. Maybe a winter project.
LOL about the fuzzy dice. They were a father's day gift from my then 14-year-old son when I got the car painted. I think they're a nice touch.
These hot rods are all about personal taste... one man's treasure is another man's, um, well, not so much. That's the great thing about them... they are individual works of art done for the owner/builder's pleasure. :hoist:
LOL about the fuzzy dice. They were a father's day gift from my then 14-year-old son when I got the car painted. I think they're a nice touch.
These hot rods are all about personal taste... one man's treasure is another man's, um, well, not so much. That's the great thing about them... they are individual works of art done for the owner/builder's pleasure. :hoist:
2old2fast
Active Member
yOU GUYS CAN BELIEVE IF YOU LIKE BUT....LIKE GERRY ,I DIDN'T WANT SUPPORT RODS, SO I MOULDED THE BODY TO EXACTLY MATCH THE SHORT POSTS, FORMED STEEL BACKING PLATES INSIDE FOR STUDS & NUTS , THESE[PLATES] ARE CONNECTED TO A SUPPORT FRAME THAT GOES ACROSS BEHIND THE DASH AND ALSO DOWN TO THE FLOOR JUST AHEAD OF THE DOOR [SIMILAR TO WHAT CCR DOES IN THEIR BODY] BOLTED TO THE FLOOR. FRAMEWORK IS 1" SQUARE TUBING. THIS HAS PROVEN ITSELF OVER 9 SEASONS ,320000 MILES WITH NUMEROUS TRIPS OVER 100 MPH , AND 1 OVER 130. SO YEAH GERRY, IT CAN BE DONE.
DAVE
ALSO MY WINDSHIELD FRAME IS MADE OUT OF 3/4" 6061 T-6 BAR STOCK.
DAVE
ALSO MY WINDSHIELD FRAME IS MADE OUT OF 3/4" 6061 T-6 BAR STOCK.
Gerry
Well-Known Member
Furry Dice.
Yep they are a nice touch and even better when they are a gift from your son.
I recomend the rods to anyone who is running a windshield over 14" tall. That full windshield makes a real good sail at 70 mph. Most here haven't had the pleasure of taking an original body apart to see how Henry braced the windshield. He did it with formed sheet metal anchored to the vertical woood at the front of the door. The dash was also tied into the posts, sort of like the underdash suport we use. Granted the stock T didn't reach the road speeds we do, but you often find stress cracks in the cowl/windshield area on a stock body. I'm not sure if those are from the wind on the windshield or folks using the windshield as a "handhold" for entering and exiting.
A simple but effective underdash suport can be made of 3/4", 16ga. tubing. One piece running from side to side with a tab to pick up the front post bolt with 2 legs extending to the firewall works well. Just remember to leave room for your gauges. The 16ga. tuing is also very easy to shape. I have slapped a piece over a tire to put a slight curve in it. A deadblow hammer and a couple pieces of 2x4 works for more radical bends.
Lee ... You won't regret installing an underdash support.
Ron
A simple but effective underdash suport can be made of 3/4", 16ga. tubing. One piece running from side to side with a tab to pick up the front post bolt with 2 legs extending to the firewall works well. Just remember to leave room for your gauges. The 16ga. tuing is also very easy to shape. I have slapped a piece over a tire to put a slight curve in it. A deadblow hammer and a couple pieces of 2x4 works for more radical bends.
Lee ... You won't regret installing an underdash support.
Ron
