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Wobble under braking

clamper

Member
Just got the T back on the road. I have a sucide frontend. During my rebuild I changed all rubber bushing. Tie rods and king pins are the same as before. Now I have a wobble under braking when traveling above 25 MPH. Before I tore the T down for a complete rebuild and paint, it did not wobble under braking. I did have a small wobble at about 45 MPH and fixed it with a little toe in. I have toed it in a little more to try to fix the wobble under braking to no avail. Brakes are good and adjusted correctly. Drums front and rear. Let me know everyone thinks.
 
Did you get any grease or oil inside the drums or on the shoes? Did you store the drums on their side or standing up. It sounds like something is out of round or the pads are contaminated making it grab in one area every revolution.
 
Make sure the wheel bearings on the front wheels are tight. They need to be tighter than bigger cars.....my .02...

Mike
 
Try some really aggressive braking ... 30 mph to zero as fast as possible without lockup, until rotors get really hot. You should smell the heat. This will clean the pad surfaces and burn off any grease/oil that got on the rotors. This recommended any time one changes brake pads. If this doesn't help, then it's not the brakes. A warped rotor will cause a pulsing sensation at the brake pedal.
 
Try some really aggressive braking ... 30 mph to zero as fast as possible without lockup, until rotors get really hot. You should smell the heat. This will clean the pad surfaces and burn off any grease/oil that got on the rotors. This recommended any time one changes brake pads. If this doesn't help, then it's not the brakes. A warped rotor will cause a pulsing sensation at the brake pedal.

Drum brakes.
 
My car did this when first assembled. Traced it to out-of-round drums on the front. They were new drums and must have been very green castings. Had them turned, but they warped again quickly. I added a steering damper to get the car driveable and took the car to the mountains where the drums went through many hot and cool cycles. Had them turned again when I got home and they have stayed round since.

+1 of the tighter than usual wheel bearings.

Also, if you have a beam axle, make sure you have the same caster on both sides, since a beam axle can twist. Tube axle shouldn't have this problem.

Mike
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm going to first remove the drums and check for warping. At the same time I'll check the bearings. Thanks again
 

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