Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

1923 Ford

the original body/chassis was from Total Performance...and I felt the geometry was slightly off. SO...
I lengthened the wheelbase a few inches, lowered the chassis, shifted the engine/tranny mounts, re-wired the entire car with a fuse box (instead of the fusible links), installed a Braille battery, installed a new Speedway motors body and exposed gas tank, reworked the steering box to go through the firewall instead of the floor, built a new windshield frame...I think thats about it.

It is much nicer now. The original was "ok" but this feels better.
 
they are a lot of fun, and in Houston, you can drive them nearly every day of the year. I'll slowly add some chrome here and there, but this is a driver, not a show car. the interior is simply but effective, with aluminum bomber seats and I coated the entire inside with Herculiner...

The windshield frame was tricky at first, but then turned out to be very easy. I made an H-shaped frame using 3/4" square tubing. the windshield shop glued the glass to the front flat surface of the square tubing...only cost me $80!!! there is no frame at the top edge, and so far it is plenty sturdy.
 
I made something similar for my windshield. For the frame I used 1/2 square tubing and cut one side open creating a channel and then used 1/4 chrome moly plate for the posts. IMG_20121014_124140.jpgIMG_20121018_185952.jpgIMG_20121026_132037.jpg
 
TrackTV6...very cool!!! i was going to do a channel for the glass, but the windshield place said it was only required if i want the glass recessed. i really didn't care, so they just glued it straight to the front, then smoothed all the edges with glue/sealant so it would look nice. only cost me $80...sa-weet
 
What steering box are you using? My son wants to have a cowl exit on the pitman arm.
 
I'm using a Flaming Rivers Reverse Corvair steering box and a Wintec steering box mount. I'd HIGHLY recommend running the steering through the firewall...it really helps to have the added foot room for the pedals.
 
I wanted "cowl" steering on my track roadster as well. I did some research on steering boxes and ratios available and discovered that Saginaw built a steering box for Taylor-Dunn electric trucks with a 25 to 1 ratio. These trucks were used by many car manufacturers to haul parts and such around in the assembly plants. Due to the length of my pitman arm, I knew I needed a slower ratio than usual. I found one on ebay and when it arrived I did the "reversal" of it, removed the sector shaft and sent it and a shortened sprint car torsion bar to a machinist friend of mine and had him machine the sector shaft to accept the cut down torsion bar to extend out the side of my cowl. After reassembling it, I discovered a bind as it was turned lock to lock and no amount of adjusting seemed to make it better. I tore it back apart and discovered that the gear on the steering shaft had a slight pitch cut into the teeth. I swapped it end for end on the steering shaft and no more bind. Since this is a low budget build, I didn't want to spend huge dollars on a new Schroeder or a vintage sprint or midget steering box. With the cost of the machine work, steering, used torsion bar and tubing to build a structure to support it in the car I have less than $500 in my cowl steering.
I have a few pictures of my build here: http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/it-finally-rolls-and-steers.14042/
 
I put cowl steering in my Track-T, also. I used the steering box from a 1985 Ford Ranger pickup - they don't have to be reversed because they already work the correct direction. I extended the sector shaft with flanges and tubing. You can read the process on another forum starting here:
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-talk/30400-another-build-thread-yep-my-track-style-t-14.html
It was a bit of work, but worth it. The box cost $50 at the local salvage yard. The tubing was scraps left over from my frame (round tubing) and I had to buy some nuts, bolts, etc. I have less than $100 in everything including the the mount and supports.:cool:
 
Just when I was doubting my choice of T bucket due to leg room I see your T and I know why I want to build one! Great looking T man and I love the all black.

What kind of seats did you use?
I'm 5'10" almso 5'11" and I always worry will I fit into one and have enough leg room.

Do you have a build page? I want to build something with steel wheels and skinny rear tires and was thinking bomber seats. Great looking car! Enjoy it.
 

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