350 start up

[T-Bucket Bob]

Hey guys,

I want to start my engine that's been sitting for awhile. I change the plugs, rebuilt carburetor, got a new rotor for HEI distributor , but yet it cranks, pops a little and that's it. What needs to be done to get it running? Do HEI's go bad a or is there something I missing to I needs to do.

Thanks, T- Bucket Bob

 

[Indycars]

Did you get the rotor on correctly or 180° out? Most have a square hole and a round hole
so you can't get it wrong.

Did you loosen or take the distributor out?

Did you give a complete list of the things you did above?

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Yes , I took the distributor out to prime engine with engine prime tool. Is 30 psi on engine good for pressure? Then set distributor 0 TDC with rotor on 1 cylinder on compression stroke and dropped it back in. Do universal starter switches go bad and how do know if you getting good spark to each cyclinder.

 

[2old2fast]

Have you tried advancing or retarding the timing ? Do you have fuel ? Small screwdriver in a plug wire while someone spins it over should show you spark ( hold the shaft close to ground and watch for spark ). You're most likely a tooth off on the dist... oil pressure depends on clearances ,pump , oil viscosity, rpm of the drill , so............you got pressure , that's good

 

[old round fart]

Remember top dead center happens 2 times. You have the dizzy 180 degrees out.

 

[2old2fast]

You should have 12 v to the HEI with the key switch in start or run position

 

[Indycars]

Yes , I took the distributor out to prime engine with engine prime tool.

Well that's imperative to know!!!

Then you most likely don't have the distributor back in the same place.
Did you mark any references for putting the dist back in the same place?
Did you take the plug wires off the dist cap, how do you know they are in the same place?
What kind of engine are we dealing with .... Chevrolet, Ford, Chrysler, Ferrari, Jaguar .......
etc, etc, etc !!!

If you have someone local that help and can come by your place, this would be sooooo much
easier, can you ask someone??? Where do you live?

 

[409T]

Remember top dead center happens 2 times. You have the distributor 180 degrees out.

That's where my money is.

 

[AusBucket]

G'Day Bob,
Good article here, How to set the firing order on a chevy small block engine, on setting up a Dizzy on a SBC.
Regards,

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Hey guys,

I got the distributor back in, so I decided to do compression check. I got 120 psi on all cylinders, but one, which was 60 psi dry and 70 psi wet. Any ideas what's going on or can I still try firing it up?

Thanks

 

[old round fart]

Sounds like rebuild time.

 

[Indycars]

but one, which was 60 psi dry and 70 psi wet. Any ideas what's going on or can I still try firing it up?

If wet means squirting oil in the cylinder, then you have a valve that's not sealing properly.

Starting it up should not hurt if you want to try. Actually I would start it and warm it up, then
do another compression check while it's hot.

 

[fletcherson]

If you tried to start it with the distributor out of sinc, it may have a bent pushrod. I would pull the valve cover and inspect the push rods and valve springs on the low cylinder or at least verify that the valves are opening and closing. Have you had this engine running before? If it’s a flat tappet cam, there have been a lot of wiped lobes due to the new oil not having friction inhibitors in them. Just another thing to look at if the problem isn’t obvious.

 

[Neshkoro]

I thought if you squirted oil in the cylinder and the compression increased, it indicated a bad ring, not a bad valve.

 

[Island Girl]

I thought if you squirted oil in the cylinder and the compression increased, it indicated a bad ring, not a bad valve.

It does, but the key here was the very marginal improvement of a very low reading.

Very possibly just a stuck lifter that may get better if it warms up, but worth pre-investigating before startup.

 

[Indycars]

I thought if you squirted oil in the cylinder and the compression increased, it indicated a bad ring, not a bad valve.

You are so right, my mistake and apologies!!!

 

[fletcherson]

I thought if you squirted oil in the cylinder and the compression increased, it indicated a bad ring, not a bad valve.

Not great compression either way... heat cycle it and retest. It may just be a low compression engine to begin with, but the one low cylinder has an issue.

 

[T-Bucket Bob]

Up date on my motor. Good friend of mine at work, who races dirt oval cars with his son, is rebuilding my motor. First, he found out that the timing chain was jumping a tooth, but a good buddy of his was able to hot bath the motor, new freeze plugs, check the crank, which only needed to be polished and used the old piston rods with new pistons. So, my buddy at work has the engine at his garage and is going to build the engine up from there. Looks like I will have a fresh engine come spring.

 

[Spanky]

Looks like I will have a fresh engine come spring.

Wow! That's great, Bob. A good running 350 in a T-bucket = FUN!!!!

 

[Gary49]

That's great news Bob. You will have peace of mind knowing you have a solid power plant in you T.