351/c6
- Thread starter flmnwlf
- Start date
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Dropped a Cleveland into one w/C6 not long ago. Was stock except for the heads and valvetrain, but it had a tunnelram w/single 4bbl, also. Nice running motor....
We have members here that pretty well cover everything. Flattys, Caddys, Nailheads, Pontiacs, you name it, we pretty well got it....
We have members here that pretty well cover everything. Flattys, Caddys, Nailheads, Pontiacs, you name it, we pretty well got it....
fordsbyjay
Active Member
That C6 is a beast. Why would you want to run that instead of a c4 other than you have it because your 351w came out of an F150? lol C4's have plenty of parts available and plenty of articles are around for affordable rebuilds etc. I have a stroked 351w in my bucket but the builder put a TH350 in there with an adapter bellhousing because it was shorter... If I was doing it I would do an AOD. They are a smidge longer than the C4 but overdrive would be really nice.
baddawgcustoms
Active Member
Like railroad said if you look at the size difference between the c4 and c6 I would pick the c4. C6's are awesome but a good bit bigger for tight spaces. If you already have the c6 and want to use it you can mock it up with it, and then decide if you need more room. Trans mount location will be the same. If you are building a high siting car it probably won't make much difference. The lower the body goes down over the trans that extra room is nice.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
What they said! Room is something of a precious commodity in a bucket, whether above the floor or below....
fordsbyjay
Active Member
That is what I was thinking too. Until you get underneath and starting placing your steering box and m/cyl you will realize how precious what little space you have really is. Don't forget it is always easy to do things when building the car and the body is off but where it gets super tough is when you in a hotel parking lot in trying to troubleshoot a problem. I remember the first time I tried to check my brake fluid. My car has a Corvette m/cyl (I believe) and once you pop the top latches ( idk what they are really called) off I could not get them back on after. There was absolutely no room to get to them. I was very frustrated....
Screaming Metal
Active Member
If you do a underfloor mastercylinder, make a cutout, install a door, and have the screws going into metal screw-in wood inserts into the floor to keep from busting up your wood/fiberglass floor with self tapping screws.
Leave enough room to work on things to disassemble stuff while under the car. Think ahead and plan ahead....I've seen folks have to pull a body just to replace a MC because they didn't think about the mounting bolts and how to get to them. Do you have enough room to pull the trans crossmember to lower the trans slightly if you have to? Can you get your driveshaft in and out easily without tearing things up? Can you replace your starter without pulling the motor?
Use your head, think about clearences, plan for the next step in fabrication....
Last but not least, plan how your car sits, and your drive train alignment, especially pinion angle.
Do the same with your steering box....I've seen people weld and bolt them in, then when its time to put the motor in....clearance issues. Always think 2 maybe 3 steps ahead....
Leave enough room to work on things to disassemble stuff while under the car. Think ahead and plan ahead....I've seen folks have to pull a body just to replace a MC because they didn't think about the mounting bolts and how to get to them. Do you have enough room to pull the trans crossmember to lower the trans slightly if you have to? Can you get your driveshaft in and out easily without tearing things up? Can you replace your starter without pulling the motor?
Use your head, think about clearences, plan for the next step in fabrication....
Last but not least, plan how your car sits, and your drive train alignment, especially pinion angle.
Do the same with your steering box....I've seen people weld and bolt them in, then when its time to put the motor in....clearance issues. Always think 2 maybe 3 steps ahead....
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My first attempt at putting a C6 behind a 302 in a standard T didn't go well. I got the C6 out of a junk yard for $50 and thought I made a killing. Bolted to the 302 and set in the frame the drive shaft would have been back to back u-joints ... C6 was just too long. Swapped the C6 for a C4 and wound up with a drive shaft about 7" long.
flmnwlf
New Member
Goin with the c4
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